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Posts from the ‘France’ category

A Day on the Bus in Paris

ON THE BUS

ON THE BUS

Today I am licking my wounds.(not literally) My hand is fine, which I am surprised about, but there is a big bruise, black and purple, that runs from my wrist to my elbow on my left arm. Hmmmm….  My biggest problem though, is the knot with black and blue swelling, below my right knee.  It feels like there is a giant rubber band tightening the dickens out of the tissue below the kneecap. I might as well have a tourniquet on!  I have had this problem on numerous occasions. I have twisted my knee.  AGAIN! I can’t walk. I hobble to the couch. Maybe if I just stay off of it a few days…….Bummer!

Baby Bear and Papa Bear feel bad for me. Baby Bear goes to Paul’s and buys croissants and those baby doughnut holes.  Papa Bear brings back more café and baby, baby Coke in six ounce cans. They are so cute!  Who knew they made aluminum cans this tiny for Coke? Comfort food. I am propped up on the couch, my right leg extended as much as it will, with several pillows underneath it, café at hand, croissants within reach. I will study my French lessons on the Ipad. The sun is shining.  It looks so warm and beautiful out there!  Papa Bear announces he will finish the three bus tours we had tickets for and take lots of pictures on his cell phone. The camera batteries are still dead as a doornail and we can’t get them to recharge no matter what plug we use. Baby Bear is going shopping. Oh, how I love shopping!  I settle into French adverbs. Bummer, bummer, bummer!

In the late afternoon the Bears return and I announce I am better.  Hmmmmm… I can hobble down to the Jewish quarter to eat something I am sure.  The T street is one of my favorite’s to watch the world go by. There is a big yellow Jewish bakery, Sacha Finkelsztajn, that can’t be missed. Down this lane are tiny tiny stalls and tiny tiny restaurants, where there are always lines to get falafels (I’d never seen or eaten one before) and crêpes.

The Making of Crêpes

The Crêpe Maker

I have set a goal to stand in one of those lines and see what all the hubbub is about concerning a falafel, but tonight won’t be the night. We hobble into a restaurant.  We have not been here before, but I am curious about it because the windows have so many hand written messages on it, in French. Because of the writings it is impossible to see in, but the tables are always full outside. There are lines to get a table inside, so eating in will be out of the question too.  I think I’ll just look over all the goodies in the sandwich and pastry counters. There is a waiting line for the to-go items also. The women in front of us take matters into their own hands. Reaching for the tissues and bags they begin placing assorted pastries into a bag.  A gent in a white apron comes to the front of the counter and points to one of many signs behind the cash register area.  Do Not Touch Pastries, Ask for Assistance. These women speak French and ignore him. More signs. There is no Wi Fi Here. Please Wait to Be Seated. Wait to be Seated Outside. Cash Only. Do Not Move Beyond This Line.  You Can Find Us on TripAdvisor. Just a few of the instructions that I remember. These pointers are in English, so I know who they are for. As we wait our turn I study the people, the signs, the food. The apron gent now nods to a helper/cook/waiter, I am not sure who he is, but this man comes to help us, although not happy to have been given such a lowly assignment. I point, he selects.  He drops the goodies into the sack.  We take the bag to apron man, who has been giving all the directions and I see he is also the man in charge of the cash register. I think this is sooooo French.  They have a way of doing everything…..

I hobble gingerly back to the apartment with the help of Papa Bear. As we munch on the sandwiches and cakes, and swizzle tiny cans of Coke, Baby Bear is modeling and revealing all her shopping goodies.  She tells me all about her lesson in “PERFUME.”

I insist tomorrow I will be able to shop!

Enjoy the Video, these are just a few of the hundreds of pictures Papa Bear took for me!

Christmas Day on Av des Champs-Elysees

The Beautiful Blue Lights

The Beautiful Blue Lights

It is Christmas Day and we have slept in late. Mostly due to the fun of the evening before and the rule “we are on vacation after all” and the combination of the blackout velvet drapes. Time to open presents!  Baby Bear is the only person I know who would come to France with her spare luggage full of Christmas presents for us! One of my BEST gifts was a new pair of boots!  Green plaid for Christmas and they are so cute and comfortable.

IMG_1831 I will wear them out today as we are making our way to the Champs-Elyees to look at more Christmas lights. We didn’t expect too many people out today, but was I ever wrong!  Everyone is on the Champs-Elysees. Throngs and throngs of people and a Christmas Market along the entire route! I am thinking what a heyday this would be for pick pockets.  But, hey it’s Christmas so only pleasant thoughts allowed. Every store is decorated to the hilt and it gets dark quickly.  La nuit est déjà noire. One of my French lesson sentences we practice over and over.  Now I know why.  So we are scrambling along.

Shopping Along the Champs Elysees

Shopping Along the Champs Elysees

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Here, I must tell you that a few days ago my battery and the backup battery for my camera died!  You gotta be kiddin‘ me!  I’ll just use my cell phone from here on out, I tell myself. I don’t want to take the time on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day to look for a battery store, too much I want to see. So we are traveling in the step, shuffle, stop, step, shuffle, stop routine all along the avenue while I hold my camera above the heads and try to take pictures.  A feat all in itself!

The Crowds

The Crowds

The Traffic

The Traffic

More Crowds

More Crowds

The Christmas Market

The Christmas Market

The Ferris Wheel

The Ferris Wheel

More Pictures of THE Beautiful Blue Lights

More Pictures of THE Beautiful Blue Lights

We come upon some especially beautiful blue light displays in a Wonderland Garden and I am determined to get closer to them and in the process I trip over the only exposed curb of the street. Most of the street crossings have plywood boards to walk up on making it easier for the pedestrians and those with strollers. You never know where the side street meets the avenue this way. The side streets are all blocked off, keeping everyone moving on the avenue. It is just one long continuous walk. I go flying and land on the pavement with my left hand caught in the spokes of a baby carriage! I cling tightly to my cell phone in my right hand. There is a cry of “OH” in the crowd and then everyone parts way leaving me in the center of a large circle with my hand snagged. Papa Bear tries to help me up, but I can’t get up. Then someone behind me frees my hand from the carriage and between him and Papa Bear grabbing me under each armpit, I am sprung up in a flourish. It seems like I am in a fog.  A young police officer is standing before me and prattling on. I remember thinking, “They still wear those hats and uniforms like in the movie Casablanca!”  He keeps on talking and finally a word resonates with me that I understand, “Medical.” He is asking me if I need an ambulance or a doctor.  All my perfect 546 words that I know (I’m Type A so I keep track) in French are useless because I am in such a fog I can’t speak!  What an opportunity I am missing and all I can squeak out is, “Non, merci.”  The crowd in the circle has seen enough and returns to their shuffle down the avenue.  Baby Bear who always walks far ahead of us, returns and asks,

“Mother what are you doing?” She knows there has been a disturbance.

“I fell”.

“You did not!”

“I did.”

Getting Close!

Getting Close!

The Arc de Triomphe

The Arc de Triomphe

The Arc de Triomphe

The Arc de Triomphe

The Arc and the Eiffel!

The Arc and the Eiffel!

The Arc de Triomphe

The Arc de Triompe

We continue in the shuff-along.  I am limping. Papa Bear is asking me if I am all-right, but everything seems far away.  Time to go home.  We find a side street and turn into it.

The Side Street

The Side Street

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I Am Still Taking Pictures!

I Am Still Taking Pictures!

We are walking past the US Embassy and I realize the French Police on guard here wear black stocking caps and carry oozies. Not one of us says a word, as we creep past.  Are we supposed to even be on this street? We make it back, but I hope you REALLY enjoy these pictures! I did!

A Day at Sacré-Cœur

Walking Up the Steps to Sacre-Couer

Walking Up the Steps to Sacré-Cœur

There are bus tours, four that cover the city, so we are taking one of them up to The Basilica du Sacré-Cœur.  On the double decker red buses we are bundled up even though it is a bright warm day, but on the top tier the wind is brisk! The buses stop a little too frequently for my liking, often sitting for twenty minutes or so at each stop, but the narration of the view from the bus is very good. We reach Place St Peters and look up the hill to a pedestrian traffic jam. The narrow street appears to be THE street needed to get to Sacré-Cœur.  Narrow and filled with peddlers selling cheap souvenirs or executing some sort of shell game, we make our way slowly up the hill to the funicular or stairs (your choice) that will take us to the next level of steps and the church.

One Level of Sacre-Couer

One Level of Sacré-Cœur

IMG_1735 Getting off the funicular there is another plaza level of men selling bracelets or miniature Eiffel Towers that light up in pink or green.  The souvenirs are displayed on small rugs on the ground, so watch your step! We take the final set of steps and reach the square of Sacré-Cœur, where there are tents set up and another Christmas Market in full swing.

Sacre-Couer

Sacré-Cœur

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Passing the market tents we reach the church. There has been a line to get in at every church we have visited during our stay and there is no exception here. At Notre Dame the line wrapped around itself and kept on going with hundreds lined up to get in. My real surprise has been the Muslim families lined up with their children waiting to get in the churches. My second surprise was the Nativity scenes inside the churches. They are not outside as we see in the US, most likely due to their shear size and their age perhaps. Inside Sacré-Cœur the pasty white nuns are scurrying to add more chairs and others are managing a gift shop. The church is beautiful, however the signs says, “NO PICTURES” and these nuns look like they mean business.  Outside again we head up to the village above the church where there is a small square with artists at their easels busy sketching or painting.

The Artists at Sacre-Couer

The Artists at Sacré-Cœur

We decide to eat at one of the cafes along the plaza perimeter, Cadet de Gascogne, and watch the crowds before the sun sets.  After eating we walk around the artists easels and look at their work.  I notice that many of the children in the crowd are carrying small paper plates with a tiny piece of pottery on them that is freshly turned.    They are gingerly guarding the plates so passers-by in the crowds don’t touch them or tip over the plate.

The Pottery Man

The Pottery Man

Further along the market stalls we see children standing around a man who is busy making them a piece of pottery. Having seen what we came to see we peer over the wall and look out over the city.  It is spread out and beautiful.  I love the picture I took of the Eiffel Tower from the top. (See the video)

I Love This Twisted Vine

I Love This Twisted Vine

Looking down at the street below I can also see the hubbub street we walked up.  There is a parallel street one block over that is absolutely empty of travelers or peddlers! We walk down that one instead of the one we came up on.  So blissful! Our stop at Sacré-Cœur would not be complete without pictures of the Moulin Rouge which is on the base street below the church.  It wouldn’t even stand out if the windmill was not on the roof. Enjoy the video of our day at Sacré-Cœur!

Lafayette Galleries and the Eiffel Tower

We Begin in the Neighborhood

We Begin in the Neighborhood

I want to go to the Lafayette Galleries.  It is a department store on the order of Macy’s, Herrods and Selfridges with fabulous decorations I am told.  I look at the map. It doesn’t look too far really. We head out to the big street.  In my mind there is our neighborhood with the tiny streets and cafes and when you come to the edge of it you are at St Paul’s Metro stop. I don’t care for the metro. Down a bazillion stairs, walk a mile to the subway, get on, get out, walk a bazillion miles and climb more stairs.  I would rather just walk. If there was only a straight line to all the places I want to see. The Parisians like angles with triangle shaped buildings sitting in the middle of the street you are walking on so it splits into two, then that one splits and then that one.

I Like This Building

I Like This Building

And the Bows on all the Balconies

And the Bows on all the Balconies

There is no walking in a straight line so far.  On the street of St Paul’s there is a boulangerie/patisserie/bakery called Paul’s, believe it or not, and there is always a line for their goodies.  We get in it. There is bread and baguettes, cakes, tarts and Buche de Noel’s and delicious donut hole thingys! One young girl behind the counter speaks English, but I try my meager skills in French. We immediately made Paul’s a daily stop.

A Daily Stop

A Daily Stop

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After the stop at Paul’s we walk on in our bear formation. And on……..  and on……..  The sidewalks got wider and wider and then when we could no longer see the sidewalks because of the masses we knew we were there. I couldn’t see anything, but the head of the person in front of me and to the side. Papa Bear stays close to me or I will never be found.  Baby Bear is probably in the hinterland!  Bumper to bumper. I could see the department store building, in the distance, but getting up close to it would be another story. Tiny steps, stop, tiny steps stop. Everyone in Paris must be here. Children are perched on the shoulders of their parents.  There are windows and hundreds of people surrounding them.  What is in the windows?  I push in farther determined to see.  There are three wooden stairs up, a viewing stand section and three stairs down, for the lucky and the smallest to stand on to see the window displays. Behind the platforms are throngs of people. The window has stuffed monkeys, polar bears, black bears, birds and other creatures swinging and dancing, and a clock. There are twelve windows, I discover, all with a different scene and a different clock.

The Lafayette Galleries Windows on Christmas Day When Things Had Calmed Down

The Lafayette Galleries Windows on Christmas Day When Things Had Calmed Down

I am ready to go inside. It is bumper to bumper inside too. The line, we are all scrunched in, is heading past the perfumes, no one drops out of line. It certainly smells good here!   Suddenly there it is!  The most beautiful and tallest tree in the middle of the store, well it seems like it is in the middle, with a domed glass ceiling above it.  It is beautiful and we all fiddle for different angles to get a picture. I realize you can go up an escalator and get pictures at a different angle so up we go.  Is anybody shopping? It’s too crowded to shop! It seems that everyone here is here to see the tree! We snap more pictures and then head for the cafe on the fourth floor.

THE TREE at Lafayette Galleries

THE TREE at Lafayette Galleries

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The Dome Above the Tree

The Dome Above the Tree

I need to sit down.  There is a walk through cafeteria and smaller eateries scattered on this floor to spread the customers out.  It is hot in here!

So many people! I decide on sorbet and sit at a window table, looking out at the city.  Suddenly the lights go on at the Eiffel Tower and Baby Bear notices this.  It is breathtaking!  How far are we from that?  It doesn’t look that far, um hmmmm.  I need to look at the items on this floor, it IS the Christmas decoration and ornament section and how can you walk past that and not look?  It is sooooooo crowded, but we find an ornament or two and out the door we go to go to the Eiffel Tower which I am sure is just a mile or two up the road!

Along the Walk

Along the Walk

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More Along the Walk

More Along the Walk

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The Eiffel at Night

The Eiffel at Night

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At the Eiffel Tower was a Christmas Market where we stopped to eat!

Walking into the Christmas Market

Walking into the Christmas Market

The Christmas Market

The Christmas Market

Christmas Collage

Christmas Collage

More Food!!!!!!!  YUMMY!

More Food!!!!!!! YUMMY!

Walking to Notre Dame: The Three Bears

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Notre Dame

Notre Dame

The Christmas Tree in Front of Notre Dame

The Christmas Tree in Front of Notre Dame

We walked to Notre Dame our first day in Paris. These are my observations.  The sidewalks are narrow, one person walkways or wide pedestrian thorough fares.  No mix and match. So Baby Bear heads out first.  She is a homing pigeon really.  She needs no map, always knows the right direction to anything and moves right along rarely looking back to see if anyone is actually following her. Next is Papa Bear.  He can walk 40 miles a day, up hill both ways, carrying an 80 pound rucksack. Lastly is Mama Bear who toddles along looking at the lights, lingering to window shop and stopping every few seconds to take a picture that the other two bears would never notice. Guess which one I am. I never know where I am because I am too focused on catching up to the other two bears! We stop frequently for coffee or wine, so we can all talk occasionally.  My observations while musing in the cafes: French women come in two molds. 1. Old, waif thin, elegant, never leaving home without every drop of make up applied perfectly and sporting a real mink coat.  2. Young, waif thin, elegant without even trying to look it, pushing a baby in a carriage down cobbled streets, with a toddler at her side who is trying to learn to ride/push scooter that is new to him. Both types meet up with friends to have a cuppa or wine. Cafes are tiny, hot and the few tables are scrunched together, but hey no problem, bring all the carriages and children inside, un-wrap them from bundles of clothing, and enjoy an afternoon with your friends.  The evenings follow the same routine except the men folk join in, who are also waif thin.  They meet up to have coffee or the evening meal with their wives, children and friends and then after the meal the men go outside to sit under large umbrella heaters to drink some more and smoke cigarettes. When the women are talked out, they begin to kiss everyone goodbye, pass the children around to each other for farewell wishes and hugs and re-wrap the babies and toddlers in layers of warmth. The kissing, re-wrapping can go on for up to a half hour. Then out the door they go. The husbands leave at this time too or stay to drink, talk and smoke some more.  The scene was very orderly and the children well behaved.  This was the pattern every day. What a life!  Here are street scenes on the way to Notre Dame. I gotta go catch up to the other bears! Enjoy!

The Marais

The Marais

The Marais

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The Gardens in Winter

The Gardens in Winter

The Tiny Streets

The Tiny Streets

I loved the apartment in Paris! It felt like we were in an old black and white French film. Tiny, tiny streets, cafes on the corner, sing-alongs in the neighborhood, single room cave-like shops displaying clothing, jewelry, and perfume and people everywhere!  Locals, no tourists! And the lights and decorations were fantastic. This is truly the city of lights!  Blue, red and green glowing in the windows and on rooftops! We were in the Marais district, (the 3rd arrondissement) the Jewish neighborhood that has not changed in years, but seems to be the up and coming neighborhood keeping the charm of past times. We rented the apartment through ILoveParisApartments.com and our experience with them was one of the best.  Preparations were made ahead of time and thanks to the apartment owners’ thoroughness, everything went according to the plan. Everything from directions to the apartment, how to operate the washing machine/dryer combination (who knew they made one machine for both!)  and emergency numbers were given on the Apartment Fact Sheet that was emailed to us well in advance of our departure.  I knew it was going to be in a quaint and coveted apartment when I got the email to be discreet, quiet and respectful of the neighbors, carry our bags over the cobblestones, and take off our shoes in the apartment. The instructions were right up there with the nuns in Rome!  See the Rome trip…….https://cadyluckleedy.com/2013/04/30/off-to-roma/

In the living room and bedroom the floor length velvet drapes  blocked out any drop of sunlight.  The hardest bit for us, at first, was knowing what time of day it was.  The sun comes up slowly around 9am and goes down around 5ish.  Because of the height of the buildings and the heavy drapery it was hard to get up in the mornings, so we found we spent more time out in the evenings enjoying the lights. A very good plan!
Here are the innards of the Paris apartment.  It was on the 2nd floor, (third US) reached by a one man, one suitcase elevator or stairs. Some of these pictures were made after we settled in so excuse the messiness!

The Entrance

The Entrance

The Apartment Entryway

The Apartment Entryway

The Courtyard

The Courtyard

How About That Lock?

How About That Lock?

The Bedroom

The Bedroom

The Living Room

The Living Room

The Kitchen

The Kitchen

The Bathroom

The Bathroom

Go to the Pot and Wash and Dry Your Clothes at the Same Time

Go to the Pot and Wash and Dry Your Clothes at the Same Time

I thought you might enjoy this washer/dryer combo commercial as well!

http://youtu.be/DT4ikdAS-P0

For more apartments in Paris see: http://www.ILoveParisApartments.com.  We stayed in the St Paul 2 Picasso Apartment.

It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Flying Hotel!!!!!

The Sating Arrangement on the Double Decker Air France

The Seating Arrangement on the Double Decker AirFrance

This plane is HUGE!!!!!!

This plane is HUGE!!!!!!

My last post, before leaving for Paris, was of the wonderful treatment by WestJet at least once a year to their patrons.  My flight to Paris reveals a different story. I am starting this post with Day 1 and Day 10 to get them out of my system. I am not one to complain, but hey I think it is good to know about different experiences and what can happen.  I should have suspected something when I started getting emails from Delta well before my departure date. I book flights six months in advance to get the seat I want, so I was surprised that my seat had been changed over the months several times.  I really didn’t  think too much about it since I had paid extra for the seat and I was sure I would get an equivalent seat. Twenty-four hours before the departure, when I checked in online, I was again offered to upgrade my seat, paying even more money, which I did.  Row 10 Aisle was my seat. When I get to the check in gate imagine my surprise when I was told my seat is Row 90 Middle.
“What row did you say I was in?” my eyebrows shoot up. “How many rows are on this plane?” I ask.
“We have seated you on the upper deck, for your comfort,” is the reply.
“How many rows are on this upper deck?” I ask.
“52 rows on the lower floor and 34 rows on the upper deck,” is the reply.
“OMG, what kind of a plane is this?”
“An AirFrance AirBus 380, ma’am.”
When I get to the departure gate I stare at the biggest airplane I have ever seen!  There are over 600 passengers getting ready to board this plane.  There are four departure gates, two above and two below deck.  We snake around the airport in long lines just to board in the right line.  On board my seat is in the back door exit aisle, plenty of leg room since the exit door must be five feet wide to allow a quick get away. OMG!  There are no side aisles here either.  I have lots of space so no problem, let’s get this baby off the ground! We sit another hour in the plane.  It takes forever to get all the baggage on. The women next to me gives me the evil eye and then complains she has been bumped from her original seat separating her family of four to various seats around the plane. I am in one of her seats she explains.  I tell her my story about seat changes and we commiserate together. I don’t know how Air France knows who is in what seat by now. When we take off, it is flawless.  You don’t even know you are flyng it is so quiet and smooth. Six and a half hours later we land at Charles De Gaulle Airport where we taxi for an hour and wait.  The plane is so big we land a good way from the airport and then have to slowly, slowly taxi in to a gate that is large enough to take the huge plane. It is another hour to deplane, and another one to go through a maze of buildings and on and on and on through the airport to the baggage claim. It feels like it takes us almost as much time on the ground as the flight time. But, we are here! Hooray!

Day 10: We are on the way to airport at 0800.  We get a text saying there is an airplane delay, but departure is as scheduled. We get to the check in gate and are told the plane is delayed…… in Japan.  WHAT!!!!!!! Our 1pm departure is now 7:45pm.  “Have a voucher for lunch on us madame.”  The small food stands will only let us use our “lunch vouchers” on plastic wrapped nasty looking sandwiches.  No thank you, Air France. We wait and wait.  There are hundreds of us and we are not happy.  Again, we are waiting on the Airbus 380. Finally it arrives but there will be another 5 hour delay to clean, restock, refuel and find a flight crew because we are now 12 hours behind schedule!  “Have another food voucher madame.”  At last at 11 pm we re told we can begin to board. It takes forever; there is only one entrance level for all of us.  UGH!  When we are seated we are told the head count is inaccurate and they must count again.  Everyone stay in their seats!!!!  They count again and again.  Then the captain says we need more fuel. So we sit another hour.  Will we ever leave?  Once we are finally off, there are not enough stewards to attend and serve meals properly. No coffee, no tea. The customers who pre-ordered mangoes or whatever meals are served and an hour or so later the crew heads down the rows for the rest of us.  What a disaster. We arrive in DC at 3 am in the morning of the following day.  That is 9am in Paris. This 6 hour flight has now taken over 24 hours.  No weather delays, no break down.  Just poor planning. The plane is way too big to handle properly. I am a day behind schedule. So my lesson is this.  I will never, repeat never, fly Air France again. I will check the carrier I book with and make sure he has not dished me off to Air France.

Tips for Air France.  The plane is way too large.  The airports are not equipped to service the plane properly. The gates are not large enough to handle a small city of paying customers. Get two small planes and save us all a headache. We will not forget this disastrous flight. Now to tell you about my great time in Paris!

Another View of the AirFrance Airbus 380

Another View of the AirFrance Airbus 380

NOTICE THE SIZE OF THE PEOPLE TO GET AN IDEA OF THE SIZE OF THIS PLANE!!!!!!

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Paris for Christmas

In a few days we are headed off to the City of Lights for the Christmas holidays. At this time of year traveling can be a real headache.  Will the weather be frightful?  Will the lines be as long as waiting for Santa? It is getting harder to get from Point A to Point B without going to A1, A2, and A3 in between!  Ugh! Which airport do I have to take my shoes off at?  Which airport do I have to take my umbrella out of my carry-on? Which airport does not allow any lap top cords or electronics unless they are all bundled together in a plastic bag?  It’s enough to give you a gigantic headache!  But, I found one airline, WestJet, a Canadian airline, that treats it’s guests at least once a year to a great time!  Be sure to watch the video to put a smile on your face!

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