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Posts from the ‘Kent’ category

A Girl’s Gotta Eat: Pubs on “My English Garden Tour”

The Three Chimneys, Biddenden, Kent, UK

The Three Chimneys, Biddenden, Kent, UK

The Three Chimneys, Biddenden, Kent, UK

The Three Chimneys, Biddenden, Kent, UK

Near Sissinghurst Castle is a “not to be missed” pub called The Three Chimneys Freehouse. Located at the intersection of three country roads, the outside is much as it was hundreds of years ago. During the Seven Year’s War (1756-1763) some of the three thousand French prisoners at Sissinghurst Castle, who were placed on parole, were allowed as far as the pub. At the time the locals called the pub “The Three Wents,” or three ways, referring to the three paths that led there, but the prisoners called it Les Trois Chemins ( The Three Paths). Did the locals think the French were saying three chimneys or did that name refer to the chimneys on the pub? Or could it be the three chimneys at the three paths? The sign at the pub reflects the paths part of it’s past. See the particulars about The Three Chimneys Freehouse here.

The Three Chimneys is dated 1420 and the half timbered structure remained the same for 500 years. At that time it was a simple country ale house. Although The Three Chimneys has never lost it’s character there are now several eating areas within the pub, the newest being the seating area overlooking the gardens. There is lots of history to be gleaned here and I particularly liked the story of the last man who died here. Needless to say, there no longer is a pond outside.

Here was our appetizer at the Three Chimneys Pub; a mushroom and cheese dish for two.  A GIANT field mushroom with carmelized  red onions was drizzled in balsamic and topped with a grilled soft goat cheese! Delicious!!!!

Three Chimneys Pub, Biddenden, Kent, UK

Three Chimneys Pub, Biddenden, Kent, UK

To our delight the country pub has been recruiting great chef’s! The food offered in the neighborhood pub would make Jamie Oliver proud. The freshest local ingredients and creative food choices has definitely added to the charisma of the local pub. The atmosphere of the English Pub is what draws us to the pub in the first place. Sitting at a wooden table by the fireplace, cozy in a low ceilinged, small room, reminds us of days gone by. In the pub you are part of the community; catching up on news, celebrating events, just enjoying life! Today the locals are visiting the pubs like they have always done, although the pubs are now non-smoking and serving much more than the local ales. There are not as many pubs in town as there used to be due to the stiffer drinking laws, so the surviving pub needs to present it’s best. We were not disappointed in our choices and these two pubs were some of our favorites!

Tenterden, our “base camp” for our “Tour of English Gardens” was a thriving, busy, market town with the widest streets by far! Here one could find all the amenities and fine shopping one desired. Parking is at a premium here and an oddity for us was paying to park while shopping at the grocery store. It was, however, the largest parking lot in town and others would have parked there whether grocery shopping or not so I understand the meter business. We learned all about the meter system too! Every country is so different! Here you place part of the numbers of your car license plate into the meter machine along with your money at a localized spot! Voila!

Tenderden Town Sign, Tenderden, UK

Tenderden Town Sign, Tenderden, UK

Our favorite pub, “The Wooley”, in Tenderden was at The Woolpack, a 15th century hotel that has just undergone re-furbishment and new management. Located on High Street, in the heart of Tenderden, we had THE BEST cheese and mushroom hors d’oeuvre. It turned out to be a warm, thick, creamed, cheese soup with whole mushrooms in it and was served with a loaf of warm french bread! Need I say more!  Delicious!!!! Be sure to check out the local pubs when visiting the U.K. You won’t be disappointed!

"The Wooley at the Woolpack Hotel, Tenterden, Kent, UK

“The Wooley” at the Woolpack Hotel, Tenterden, Kent, UK

The Mushroom Cheese Hors' d-eovre, The Wolley, Tenterden, Kent, UK

The Mushroom Cheese Hors d’oeuvre, The Wolley, Tenterden, Kent, UK

Man’s best friend comes here too!

"The Wooley" at the Woolpack Hotel, Tenterden, Kent, UK

“The Wooley” at the Woolpack Hotel, Tenterden, Kent, UK

The National Trust: Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

 

 

Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

 

The Prospect Tower at Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

The Prospect Tower at Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

As we learned previously, the property at Sissinghurst was already, for the most part demolished, or in need of much repair, by the time Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicholson bought the property in the 1930’s. That is why it looked so strange to me just to see a tower in the middle of the yard! You had to know that at one time there was a much larger castle and courtyards that surrounded the turret towers to fully appreciate what the grounds had looked like at this time. (See my 1770’s picture of Sissinghurst Castle in my previous post to get the picture.) That picture also reminded me of Knole, the childhood home of Vita. Did Vita want this property because it reminded her of Knole?  Would  Sissinghurst  make up for the loss of Knole?  I think so, in my opinion. And then came the gardens……

Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Sissinghurst Gardens, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

The Sissinghurst Garden Map

Chalkboard of Today's Events in the Sissinghurst Gardens, Kent, UK

Chalkboard of Today’s Events in the Sissinghurst Gardens, Kent, UK

 

Chalkboard of Today's Events in the Sissinghurst Gardens, Kent, UK

Chalkboard of Today’s Events in the Sissinghurst Gardens, Kent, UK

What I learned about the Sissinghurst Gardens………

Vita, who became in her own words, “a damned outmoded poet”, turned to writing weekly garden columns for The Observer, which in turn made her garden famous. By 1938, her friends and  gardeners were flocking to see the gardens and what the Nicolson’s were accomplishing. Vita,  began to charge one shilling to see the garden. Today as you enter the gardens you are given a wooden shilling to present to the gatekeeper to keep the tradition alive. First, let’s walk through the White Garden!

The White Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The White Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

Entering the White Garden, Sissingurst Gardens, Kent, UK

Entering the White Garden, Sissingurst Gardens, Kent, UK

 

The White Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The White Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The White Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The White Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

After WWII their attention returned to developing the garden and when Head Gardener, Jack Vass, returned from the war in 1948, the idea of a White Garden became a firm plan. Vita’s rose garden was moved from the area of the Tower Lawn and the Priest House to the Rondel Garden. The late rose garden area would now feature a white,  grey and green garden. “ I have what I hope will be a really lovely scheme for it: all white flowers, with clumps of very pale pink. White clematis, white lavender, white agapanthus, white double primroses, white anemones, white lilies”……

Together, Vita and Harold, constructed a garden of connected “rooms” which would become a romantic substitute for Knole. Each room had a different character of color and theme, the walls being clipped hedges or pink brick. Nicholson spent his efforts designing new interconnecting garden walkways between Vita’s exciting flower interior of each room.

The Rose Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

A Room With a View, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Rondel Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Cottage Garden, Sissinghurst , Kent, UK

The Cottage Garden, Sissinghurst , Kent, UK

 

The Cottage Garden, Sissinghurst , Kent, UK

The Cottage Garden, Sissinghurst , Kent, UK

Vita’s thoughts on planting, “Why have one plant when you can have a hundred!” She loved to plant en masse!

The Cottage Garden, Sissinghurst , Kent, UK

The Cottage Garden, Sissinghurst , Kent, UK

 

A Connecting Walkway at Sissinghurst Garden, Kent UK

A Connecting Walkway at Sissinghurst Garden, Kent UK

One of the hedges was being trimmed!  What an upkeep that would be!

The Lime Walk, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Lime Walk, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Orchard, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Orchard, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Herb Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Walking to the Herb Garden, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Jack Vass was a skilled propagator and many of the seeds and cuttings came from all over the garden. Vita would only buy one plant and cuttings would be taken from that and many plants came from friends and other private gardens such as the garden at  Hever Castle. In total the White Garden cost three pounds. Later there was the creation of the Thyme Lawns, and the Moat Walk, as her rose collection continued to grow.  By 1953 there were 194 different roses grown at Sissinghurst. Vita’s take on the garden was to allow the garden to have a certain wildness about it which fitted her romantic and free nature. Her strength was in creating imaginative planting schemes and using color in stunning combinations.

In 1967, The National Trust took over the garden, farm, and buildings. Today the  garden is the epitome  of an English garden and well cared for by eight gardeners and many National Trust volunteers. It is one of the most visited and loved gardens in England. I hope you have enjoyed the Gardens at Sissinghurst!  It was one of my favorite gardens!

The National Trust: Sissinghurst Castle; Home of Vita Sackville-West

Sissinghurst Castle Gardens, Kent, UK

Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

 

Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Here looking at the main section of the house, the Long Library is to the left, and the Main House is to the right.

Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

From 1915 to 1930, Vita Sackville-West, poet, and her husband, Harold Nicholson, diplomat, lived at Long Barn in Sevenoaks, after the family had been forced to leave Knole, her family home, when Vita was not able to inherit the family estate because she was a woman. 

In 1930 they bought  the ruins and the farm around Sissinghurst Castle. The Nicolson’s must have had a good imagination and wanted something that would keep them busy for years, because Sissinghurst had had a long and colorful past, but by 1930 the buildings were all dilapidated and the grounds one massive field of weeds!

This is what I learned about Sissinghurst………

In 1235, the manor belonged to John de Saxingherste, a gentleman farmer. The house was protected by a moat, which provided the family with fish. This moat still exists on two sides of the orchard. By 1530 the manor was sold to John Baker of Cranbrook, a very wealthy man during the reign of King Henry VIII. The house was expanded and a entrance gateway was built. In 1560, son Richard, built a new house on the site around three courtyards with a Prospect Tower at the center. A smaller house to the north, known as the Priest’s House, was originally a banqueting house and later housed their priest.

Chateau de Sissinghurst

Chateau de Sissinghurst, 1756-1763

By 1730 Sir John Baker died, leaving four daughters and as there were no men descendants left, the estate was sold to Horace Mann, who never lived there, but leased the property to the government to be used as a prison, during the Seven Year’s War. French Naval officers were housed in the tower and some of the graffiti of sailing ships, names, and dates still remain there. The three thousand prisoners referred to their prison as Chateau de Sissinghurst, and the name stuck.  By the end of the war the sailors had destroyed the property; trashing, burning and looting the fine architectural details from fireplaces, doorways and windows.

In 1796, the parish of Cranbrook took over the lease, creating a poor house here where one hundred men were offered housing, employment and food. A devastating fire in the 1800’s destroyed the manor so badly that even the foundations of the house, that stood in the orchard, were picked up and carted away.

Here is a Map of the property after many years of work by the Nicholson’s. It gives you an idea of what was left on the property and how they mapped out the gardens. They lived in the smaller Priest House and the South Cottage,  while re-building the remaining section of the gated wall, and set out to transform it into the beautiful house and garden it is today. In 1967 The National Trust took over Sissinghurst, the gardens, farm and buildings. Today it is one of the most popular manors owned by the National Trust. Tomorrow we’ll take a close up look at the gardens and how they developed over the years at Sissinghurst. Now let’s look at the buildings on the property of Sissinghurst Castle.

Tower at Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Prospect Tower at Sissinghurst Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

The Tower became Vita’s “Room of Her Own”, where she went daily to write for three hours. The rest of the day was spent working in her gardens. Here are some views of her room and the views she had when writing.

Steps to the Tower, Sissinghurst, Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Steps to the Tower, Sissinghurst, Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

 

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst, Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst, Castle, Cranbrook, Kent, UK

 

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

The rooftop shown in the picture above is the Priest’s House, now a B&B on the National Trust Property at Sissinghurst. Wouldn’t be great to stay in this garden?

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

Here is the South Cottage Farmhouse, another B&B on the property at Sissinghurst.  It is a much larger property, in case you need more room!

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

View from Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

 

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Prospect Tower, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Back of the Main House, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Back of the Main House, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Back of the Main House, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

The Back of the Main House, Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

 

The Boat House along the Moat, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

The Boat House along the Moat, Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

Here are the Oasts, so we know this was a working farm!

The Oasts at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

The Oasts at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

Now these buildings make up the restaurant,  gift shops and museum at Sissinghurst Castle.

The Gift Shop and Restaurant at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

The Gift Shop and Restaurant at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

Tomorrow we’ll explore the garden up close and personal and see the remarkable transition that took place and continues to do so in the Sissinghurst’s gardens. Vita and Harold had a definite plan for their new home! See you there!

The Gift Shop and Restaurant at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

The Gift Shop and Restaurant at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent, UK

The Hop Shop: Castle Farm, Shoreham, North Kent, UK

The Hop Shop, Shoreham, North Kent, UK

The Hop Shop, Shoreham, North Kent, UK

Before we leave North Kent, let’s take a lovely drive through the country to go to the Hop Shop. The Hop Shop is a family owned, award winning farm shop, that serves as a gift shop, and country store in the rolling hills of Kent. The family sells their own beef, apples, apple juice, hops, dried flowers, Kentish lavender and honey. When we were here the lavender fields were in bloom and a group of gardeners was here to tour the garden. Let’s join them right after I pick out some gifts!

Portrait of a Marriage: The Life of Vita Sackville-West

 

Vita Sackville-West

Vita Sackville-West

Vita Sackville-West was her own woman and a very complicated one. When I first read about her, and many of her friends, my first reaction was these women had too much money and fame, and not enough to do. But the more I read and studied them, and the time period, their lives made more sense to me and I wondered what I would have done in similar circumstances and if I would have been so brave as to be myself or buck the system, come what may.  It’s easy to think so, in a day when women have so many freedoms. But, it would have been a very different story in Vita Sackville-West’s day!

To lay the groundwork about Vita………

Born March 9, 1892, into a wealthy and prominent family, swirling in turmoil and strife, it would be hard to grow up not being confused, and unsure of one self.  One has to make up their mind to succumb to it or rise above it as best you can. The family ancestry was one that would have been tolerated, due to who they were, but there would always be the gossip and scandals to torment the family.

Vita’s grandfather, Lionel Sackville-West died in 1908, leaving five illegitimate children. Although he was considered a bachelor, when the children’s mother, Pepita, died in 1871, the two boys were sent to South Africa, to learn farming, and the three girls to a private school in Paris, all provided for by Lionel. His oldest daughter, Victoria, came to live with him in 1880, and it was at this time that she learned about her illegitimacy; the Sackville-West family, her Uncle Mortimer who lived in the huge house called Knole, and the other aunts. Lionel thought it best to admit, what had been the subject of rumor for years, that he was her father and that he soon would be a diplomat to the U.S. With Queen Victoria’s permission he took the 19 year old, Victoria, to Washington, to serve as his hostess. When Mortimer, the oldest brother died in 1888, Lionel returned to England to assume the responsibilities at Knole, one of the largest estates in England, (If you don’t know what a challenge that would have been please read my previous post on Knole)  and Victoria became the mistress/hostess of Knole.

In 1890, with the encouragement of her father and her own need to think about herself, Victoria married her first cousin, another Lionel, the son of her uncle, William Sackville-West, who would inherit Knole, upon the death of his Uncle Lionel, Victoria’s father. What a mess that was, since the other family members, on both sides of the family, were not happy about this decision. It was all about keeping the money and the Estate, Knole, in the family.

A child was born to Victoria and Lional, who was named, Victoria Mary Sackville-West, after her mother, and was called Vita. Victoria’s remark of Vita at birth, was she sooner would have drowned than have another child, and she didn’t. In the years to follow, both her mother and father had lovers and sometimes they all lived at Knole together! With 365 rooms it would be easy to live separate lives at Knole and not run into each other. When Grandfather Lionel died in 1908 , another scandal commenced when Victoria’s brothers filed a claim of inheritance and the right to claim Knole. The trial was vicious,  Victoria having to admit in court that she indeed was illegitimate, proving her mother, Pepita, was  married to someone else at the time all the children were born to Lionel. Victoria was caught in the middle, if the judge declared her brothers and sisters legitimate she and her husband would lose the money and Knole.  It was a messy family affair and fodder for the press. Can you imagine the tongue wagging and headlines in the paper? Vita, who was sixteen at the time went everyday to the court with her mother to listen to the proceedings, while her mother gave her testimony. Victoria and Lionel won the decision and everyone was safe, for the time being at Knole.

There had not been enough income to support the finances of Knole. Victoria was in charge of the bills, as her husband the young Lionel, was not concerned with the everyday responsibilities of running the estate. There was not enough money to pay the staff of sixty indoor and outdoor servants, make improvements to the house, maintain upkeep of other properties, fund Lionel’s sporting expeditions, throw constant parties, and pay the enormous court expenses from the legitimacy trial. John Murray Scott,  one of Victoria’s lovers, died in 1912, and had promised Victoria, in his will, to free her from all financial worry. And he did. His family was aghast and had called the Sackville’s, “The Locusts”, and that was before they sued them in court to retrieve the substantial amount of money and property he had left to Victoria. This trial ended in 1913 with affirmation to Victoria, leaving her a wealthy woman. This was Vita’s childhood background and forewarning of crisis as she grew up.

Was it any wonder that Vita should be confused about love and stability? Her life had been plagued by trials, gossip, and her mother’s survival.  Many times she had been left alone at Knole while her mother and father travelled the world. She was lonely, and considered herself unsociable and unnatural. She preferred solitude and discovered her joy of writing. She fancied her fortunes from writing would save Knole. Everything was centered around Knole and the lifestyle.

Vita’s first real friend, was Rosamund Grosvenor, who had been invited to share a  governess with her. Rosamund was also Vita’s first love and was besotted with Vita, four years her junior. Vita later stated she felt no real conflict, only that, “I had no business sleeping with Rosamund and I should never have allowed anyone to find out.  I really was very innocent.”

Vita later was more deeply involved with Violet Keppel, later Trefusis. Their relationship began in her teens and strongly influenced them both for years.  This affair was scandalous for both families and nearly collapsed both their lives. During her early years, Vita had also met Harold Nicolson, a diplomat, who she thought of as very charming, but nothing more. He had stood by her during all the upheavals of the trials and also during the stormy relationship with Violet Keppel. Perhaps to escape her confusion and the rage of both families, concerning her love affairs with women, she married Harold in 1913, at the age of 21, in the family chapel at Knole. Her mother claimed to be too ill to come downstairs to the wedding. Was Vita longing for a life like everyone else? Love ever after?

In reality, Harold was a homosexual, and Vita continued on with her affair with Violet. Harold and Vita had decided on an open marriage with both going their own ways, but committed to each other.  Their marriage had stormy times.  On several occasions the two women had decided to elope with each other. On and off they would run off together to Italy and other places and live as man and wife, Vita dressing as a man in public.  Both women were married by this time, and Vita had two children with Harold. During a messy episode when Harold was convinced that Vita and Violet would go through with their liaison, Harold took Violet’s husband, who was shocked that his wife was in love with Vita, and together flew to Italy to confront the two women. Vita was convinced to return to Harold, and Violet was crushed. Vita at this time had written the novel  Challenge which bears witness to the affair, in collaboration with Violet. Vita’s mother found the portrayal obvious enough and refused to allow the publication of the novel in England. Soon Vita would suffer another disaster. Due to aristocratic inheritance customs, when Vita’s father died, Knole, the only place Vita had ever lived,  was bequeathed to Vita’s cousin, Charles, along with the title, 5th Lord Sackville. He promptly removed  Vita, Harold and Victoria from Knole.  He was tired of the shenanigans and scandal. Vita was crushed once more.

Was it the stifling Victorian society that Vita rebelled against? Was it because women had so few choices? Was it because women’s lives always depended on men, their fathers or their husbands? Was the unstable and lonely childhood the root of Vita’s choices?

Things were changing for the children of the Victorians. Another group of writers and artists, of whom Vita had connections, formed a very liberal thinking group called the Bloomsbury Group, who also challenged current day principles and lifestyles. Life would never be the same for any of them, and to add to the frenzy they were on the brink of WWI.  We’ll pick up the story here when we travel to Charleston, the home of Vanessa Bell, a Bloomsbury member and to Monk’s House, home of Virginia Woolf, who was also Vita’s lover at one time, and the sister of Vanessa Bell. Virginia also was a member of the Bloomsbury Group! They were all so intertwined!

For a very good read, Portrait of a Marriage,  by Nigel Nicholson, can take you through the fifty year marriage of Vita and Harold Nicholson. Based on a diary Vita left, at her death in 1962, her son Nigel added his thoughts about what he knew and thought while he was growing up. Vita wanted to tell the truth of her life and how she felt during all those years, and for that time period most of what was known was speculation, because it simply was’t discussed in polite circles!  She refers to “possible readers” and believed “the psychology of people like myself will be a matter of interest”. She also hoped her life would spread progress in the world. Nigel thought his mother had, ”fought for the right to love, men and women, rejecting the conventions  that marriage demands exclusive love, and that women should love only men and men only women. For this she was willing to give up everything” ……I will be continuing the story of Vita’s life at Sissinghurst Castle,  the effect her garden made on everyone, and her friends Vanessa Bell and Virginia Woolf. We’ll meet up in the gardens!

Vita-Sackville-West

Vita-Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson at Sissinghurst

The National Trust: Knole; Childhood Home of Vita Sackville-West

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Entry to Knole, in the Green Courtyard, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Entry to Knole, into the Green Courtyard, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

One of the Towers at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

One of the Towers at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

One of the Towers at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Some of the Towers at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Nothing could have prepared me for Knole.  I had read up about Knole. It would be a big house, extraordinary.  Well, the people who had lived there made it so very interesting too. I discovered Vita Sackville-West. I discovered another world.

But in reality, it was unbelievable that anyone could live in this home, really a castle, but bigger than any castle I had ever seen. The shear size of it is unimaginable!  I wanted to understand this life. I wanted to understand the people who lived like this.

I am breaking my post into two segments because I think that Knole and Vita Sackville- West demand such attention. I was enthralled. I hope you will be as well. Now………

What I learned about Knole.

Knole is nestled in a 1000 acre medieval deer-park. The deer know there are no guns here and are happy to be in the front yard, (if you can call it that) and near the parking spaces for Knole. You could reach out and touch them, certainly feed them, or just sit amongst them. Knole has been open as a park for several years and has been a favorite recreational park for large groups of school children, as a field trip adventure, with plenty of space to run around! Walking up the gravel lane from the car park you get plenty of opportunity to observe the deer!

The Deer of Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Deer of Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Deer of Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Deer of Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Sprawled out in front of us is Knole, rated as one of England’s largest houses.  Since 2012 the National Trust, has cared for the house and 52 of the acres. More than half the house has been kept by the Sackville-Wests, along with the remaining gardens and estate, but they do permit commercialized access and charitable and sporting events. Believe me when I say you could live at one end of this place and NEVER know what was going on at the other. The National Trust has documented this house as a Calendar House, which defines it as having 365 rooms, 52 staircases, 12 entrances, and 7 courtyards, following the order of a calendar with 365 days, 52 weeks, 12 months, and 7 days in a week.  Can you imagine that? Who exactly lived here?

I had to stand far away just to take pictures of SECTIONS of Knole! It goes on and on in the shape of a rectangle with several inner courtyards!

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole,Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Chapel at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent. UK

The Chapel at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent. UK

The oldest parts of the house were built by Thomas Bourchier, Archbishop of Canterbury between 1456 and 1486, on the site of an earlier house.  Above and on either side of a large Tudor fireplace is the motto of the Archbishop and subsequently the house was passed on to future Archbishops, enlarging the house with new courtyards, (The Green Courtyard which is now the front yard)  and new entrance towers. In 1538 the house was taken from the Archbishop Thomas Cranmer by King Henry VIII. In 1566 Queen Elizabeth I gave the house to her cousin, Thomas Sackville, whose descendants have lived there since 1603. In 1606, Sackville made extensive renovations, to the house,  to prepare for a possible visit from King James VI.  The estate was not given outright to the Sackvilles. Under the terms of the lease the “manor and mansion house”, with the park and deer, were given in a ninety-nine year lease for 200 pounds. The leasee, had to do all the repairs, but could re-build the house at his pleasure. The estate just got larger and larger and it remained in the hands of the Sackville’s.

The organ, dating from the 1620’s, is located in the private chapel (which is as big as some modern churches) and is the oldest playable organ in England.

There is a walled garden of 26 acres, and it is large enough to have a very unusual walled garden inside itself. How many stones would that take? How long would it take to build?

Walled Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Walled Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Here is a hedged garden inside a walled garden, inside another walled garden!

Walled Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Walled Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

This passageway in the wall lead to yet another garden!

The Walled Garden, Knole, Sevenoaks,Kent, UK

The Walled Garden, Knole, Sevenoaks,Kent, UK

 Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

 Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The gardens are so extensive it will take years to completely restore them and lots of gardeners!

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Garden at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Today the inside of the house is undergoing conservative reconstruction with support from the Heritage Lottery Fund, since the external repairs have been completed. There is a Bookshop Café, along the Green Courtyard, one of the many inner courtyards. 

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

Tents have been placed outside, with a temporary eating station, until the larger restaurant facilities are complete. Now that I have got over the shock of the sheer size of the house let’s walk through the orangery from the garden. In the orangery are marble statues, orange trees and a Buzaglo. What in the world is a Buzaglo?  I wanted  to know too!

The Orangery, Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Orangery, Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Orangery, Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Orangery, Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Orangery, Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Orangery, Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Buzaglo, Knole, Kent, UK

The Buzaglo, Knole, Kent, UK

Abraham Buzaglo (1710-1782) came from Morocco to England in 1760, and in 1765 was granted a patent for a new type of stove, known after him as a “Buzaglo”. These “warming  stoves”, as they were called, were effective, fashionable and exclusive because of their cost. These coal burning, cast iron-stoves were the cutting edge of keeping warm in the 1770’s. Mr Buzlos’s trade card promised that his stoves “surpass in Utility, Beauty, and Goodness say anything hitherto invented in Europe”.  They “cast an equal and agreeable heat to any Part of the Room and are not attended by Stench,  with a bright Fire to be seen at pleasure”. The stove also “preserved the Ladies Complexions and Eyesight,  warming equally the whole body, without Scorching the Face or Legs”. I’m sure if it was the newest and costliest it was wanted at Knole. My question would be how many of the warming stoves would it take to warm up the house? After the “warming stoves” were placed there Mr. Buzaglo could have retired!

It is clear that Knole prospered for the rich and powerful!

Conservation of Knole is going to take several years. It will be interesting to see how much of the house will be opened to the public and how the gardens will be restored. In 2014 archeologists found oak beams beneath the floors and near the fireplaces, that had been scorched and carved with “witch marks” to prevent witches and demons from coming down the chimney! The house will have to be monitored. It would be so easy to get lost in a house with 365 rooms! Tomorrow I will share with you the life of  Vita Sackville-West, an English poet, novelist, and gardener, who was born at Knole, in 1892. She was an only child! I hope she had enough room in that house! Enjoy!

Here’s a last look at Knole, with the chapel on the end!

The Chapel at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

The Chapel at Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, UK

A Gardener’s Farewell?

The Hearse, Kent, UK

The Hearse, Kent, UK

Closer, The Hearse, Kent, UK

Closer, The Hearse, Kent, UK

Closest, The Hearse, Kent, UK

Closest, The Hearse, Kent, UK

Finishing up my National Garden Schemes tour we started out on one of our daily drives to a National Trust Estate. One morning we stopped in Hawkhurst, to let a hearse out of a driveway.  Imagine our surprise when it stopped in front of us and the gentleman in the passenger seat got out. Dressed in top hat and tails he approached the side of the hearse, removed his hat, and bowed his head in prayer. After a minute or so, he returned to the front seat and the hearse moved on in the slow traffic. As we sat in our car watching this spectacle, I was surprised to see what looked like a picnic basket casket with flowers stuck into the sides. Was this the coffin of a gardener, I wondered? What a moving tribute that would be! When we asked our friends about this, we were told this was one of the new eco-friendly caskets. Another new take on caskets was the cardboard casket. I looked it up and here is one article you  might want to read before settling on the eco-friendly casket. I had not ever heard of such a thing so researching ahead of time might be a good thing. An eco-friendly funeral does give one something to ponder. To each his own or as the french say, à chacun ses gouts! Rest in peace with that bit of garden with you! I thought it was lovely!

Old MacDonald Had a Farm: E-i, E-i, Oasts

Oast in Kentish Countryside, UK

Oast in Kentish Countryside, UK

Oast at Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Oast at Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Oast at Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Oast at Sissinghurst, Kent, UK

Oast in Kentish Countryside, UK

Oast in Kent Countryside, UK

Oast in Kentish Countryside, UK

Oast in Kent Countryside, UK

Driving around the Kent countryside one can not help, but notice, the oast; a building designed for drying hops, as part of the brewing process. The oast consisted of two or three storeys, on which the hops were spread out to be dried by hot air from a wood or charcoal-fired kiln at the bottom. The drying floors were thin and perforated to permit heat to pass through and escape through a cowl in the roof which turned with the wind.  Hops were picked from hops gardens by gangs of pickers, who earned a fixed rate per bushel. The green hops were put into large hessian sacks, called pokes, and the pokes were taken to the oast.  Some oasts had a man-powered hoist, (a pulley and rope) used to hoist the green hops to the drying floor. Green hops had a moisture content of 80%, which needed to be reduced to 6%. The drying floors were 1 1/4 inch square battens nailed at right angles across the joists so there was a gap between each batten and this was covered with a horsehair cloth. The hops would be spread 12 inches deep, the kiln doors closed and the fire lit. Routinely, the men would have to turn over the hops, by walking across the boards and raking it over, in order for the hops to dry properly.  What a hot and dangerous job that would have been! When the hops were judged to be dry, the furnace would be extinguished and the hops removed from the kiln using a scuppet, a large wooden shovel. The hops would then be spread out on the stowage floor to cool and afterwards be pressed into large jute sacks, called pockets, with a hop press. The pockets were then sent to market where the brewers would buy them and use the dried hops in the beer process to add flavor and act as a preservative. Next time you are in a local English pub and see the yellow-brownish, weedy, looking rope, strung about the ceiling and hearth, you’ll know you are looking at picked hops!  Enjoy that beer!

The George Inn, Alfriston, East Sussex, UK

The George Inn, Alfriston, East Sussex, UK

Help! What Am I?

Help! What Am I

Help! What Am I?

This was my favorite flower during my “English Garden Tour.”  We saw it several times in many gardens, but no one was able to identify it. Can a gardener help me out? I loved the way it kept blooming on a single stem!

Where Do We Stay and How Do We Get There?

Bulleign Barn

Bulleign Barn

The Bulleign Barn

The Bulleign Barn

The Road to Bulleign Barn

The Road to Bulleign Barn

As I stated in my previous post I like to research my vacation before I hit the road.  I know, I know, a lot of you like to just “wing it,” but I would rather know all about places of interest, restaurants, and villages that I am am really interested in and then add to that, if something exciting turns up.  For this trip, I was glad I started early and took the time to look-up the gardens I was keenly interested in, on the National Garden Scheme, (NGS) so I could co-ordinate going from one garden to the next, (since our plan was to see several a day)  I  also needed to know how much time it would take to get from one to another, and where we would want to eat between gardens.  Although the gardens on the NGS are open on the weekends, for the most part, some had specific times they were open. We would have been quite dismayed to have arrived at a garden only to have to wait to get in. So when I had the gardens lined up I looked for a local pub close to the gardens we would be touring.  This was when I realized most pubs are open from 12pm-2pm for lunch and then re-open for dinner, usually 6pm-9pm. So I had to make sure we were at a certain place on schedule.

The first thing I learned was that there were GPS co-ordinates listed, for all the gardens in the NGS and all the historic National Trust estates, in their books. This would make the driving so much easier, in theory. But to be on safe side, I printed out maps and directions from garden to garden, to also have with me. As you can see from my work sheets, I made lots of notes. I also printed out the pub or special interest I wanted to see near every garden. I put all my notes, maps, and directions in plastic sleeves and then when I was ready for a particular day I just pulled out the necessary pages to carry along in the car. SB took a look at all my notes and quickly put together a spread sheet for me, so we knew where we WANTED to be everyday at least!

The Detailed Itinerary, Research, Research, Research

The Detailed Itinerary, Research, Research, Research

Now for reality. As Americans driving in the UK, it takes us at least three days to get used to, what is for us, a steering wheel on the wrong side of the car and driving on the wrong side of the road. We knew what to expect in that area. What we didn’t expect was   that once off the M25 we would be on a village road that got smaller and smaller as we got closer to our destination. These were roads meant for horse and buggy and then pony and trap, but were now meant for a two-car highway.  We were rear view mirror to rear view mirror! When we came to a village, the road narrowed even further in front of the stores, where the cars would be parked higgly-piggly in front of them. (I wouldn’t exactly call it parking)  Cars were just pulled up at any angle, as long as the car would fit in (or not), and the car abandoned.  Now this makes the road even smaller and one must wait your turn to go around and sometimes the car coming towards you is in a very big hurry so you have to creep past all the cars, zigging in and out at a crawl.  SB’s habit as we came to a village, was to roll down the window and pull in the rear view mirror saying, “Do you know how close you are to that car?” My reply every time, “I didn’t hit it did I?” This is not the best of ways to start a vacation meant for relaxation, but after three days I could move along with the best of them. I am a terrible navigator, even with a map, so it is best that I drive and SB keep me on the correct side of the road and upon entering a traffic circle tell me which turn-off is the one I want, because I would be just carousing that circle in total chaos.

Also, using the GPS in the car, as it was originally set up, to get from Point A to B in the fastest time, did not prove to be helpful. The GPS, in order to save a mile or two, would take us off the main road and into a tiny lane (and I mean tiny lane) to get to our destination. Now I can truly say I saw some lovely cottages and gardens, that were not on any of my maps, in extremely small clusters of village life, that I am sure the average American tourist does not get to see. I am ABSOLUTELY sure I am the only American who knows that the Swim Club in Sevenoaks is reached by going off the main road onto a 180 degree turn, after you have gone through a section of newly landscaped cottages found on the opposite side of the road to the one I was looking for, then up a steep hill into what had to be the Sherwood Forest, on a road that got narrower and narrower as we came to our supposed destination, Knole. Arriving at the back entrance, I think, where no one could get in, yes the GPS got us there, kind of. It was Knole, but not the proper entrance. But hey, like I said, I know now where the Swim Club is, the drive was nice and shady, it only added a half hour to our trip time, and I AM ON VACATION RIGHT? We did that on a lot of days to various destinations. You just have to go with the flow! We reverted to looking at my printed maps for extra guidance.

After much grumbling, and some hysteria about my driving, we arrived at our first destination near Tenterden. I have to say, also, that we had planned to stop at a local vineyard on the way, but under the circumstances that didn’t seem prudent, as I don’t think SB’s heart could have taken it, so we saved that for another day.

Main Home Section of Bulleign Barn

Main Home Section of Bulleign Barn

The Back Side of Bulleign Barn

The Back Side of Bulleign Barn

Bulleign Barn, a find on Air B&B, was perfect after our harried day. Turning off onto a narrow one-lane graveled road we poked along for a mile or so following the canal to one side and the rabbit warrens on the other. The lodging, near the hub of Tenterden, (a large village compared to others we had been through that day) was clustered in old hop fields, at one time belonging to the Boleyn family. The long black barns were used for storing the hops. Our Air B&B accommodation was one of the long barns converted into a home with several bedrooms off the main section of the home. Our room was very spacious and modern with WI-FI, located on the main floor, with a private entrance, and set in a small walled courtyard near the old stone horse pool. There was a fridge for our trips to the vineyards too.

Our Room at Bulleign Barn

Our Room at Bulleign Barn

Our Room at Bulleign Barn

Our Room at Bulleign Barn

Our Room at Bulleign Barn

Our Room at Bulleign Barn

Every morning we were served a delicious breakfast of fresh yogurts, fruits, home made jams, along with croissants and specialty breads, warm from the oven. The outdoor table was set to our time-table and it was nice to talk to the other guests, and watch the playful dogs, chickens and a duck named Jemima.

Jemima

Jemima

Breakfast Every Morning!

Breakfast Every Morning!

AirB&B, Bulleign Barn, near Tenterden

AirB&B, Bulleign Barn, near Tenterden

There was also a family of white barn owls, who nested in the eaves, and one morning we got to meet a baby owl, which had fallen from the nest overnight. Our hostess skillfully set about to replace the fallen chick.

Baby White Owl

Baby White Owl

It was so nice to have found this country accommodation and start our day in such a relaxing way before we set off on our daily adventures to the gardens. We looked over the listings for quite some time, since there were so many varied spots to choose from.  If you haven’t thought of using Air B&B you should give it a try. We had choices of garden sheds, gypsy wagons, tents, rooms in big estates homes, or entire homes in both rural and city settings.  It’s just fun to see all the offers available out there and we have never been disappointed with a listing we have stayed in. To top that off it is much less expensive and if you like true interaction with your host and other guests, Air B&B will be for you. See you in the garden tomorrow!

PS

Before leaving on our Tour of the Gardens, in the spirit of things, I decided to name my little house, The End Cottage.  Every proper cottage in England has a name, most likely used prior to streets and house numbers, so why shouldn’t our place have a name I say? The Star was placed in my yard because I was selected for the Garden of the Month by my neighbors! Thanks !!!!!!

The End Cottage

The End Cottage

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