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Posts from the ‘Food’ category

Rome

Our Room at Santa Brigida

Our Room at Santa Brigida

Day one. Off to Rome. My daughter surprised me with an early Mother’s Day present and updated my ticket to first class!  I WAS IN HEAVEN!!!!!!! Everything is so much nicer in first class.  I could select meals from a menu with several choices and eat delicious food with real forks and spoons.  I ate steak. To sleep I just pushed the button for the seat to maneuver into whatever position was comfortable for me.  I slept great! In no time we were landing in Rome.
We took a cab from the airport to St Brigida Convent in the heart of historic Rome.  The cabbie didn’t fail my expectations by stopping or even slowing down at stop signs.  The signs are only suggestions in Italy. Sister Gertrude met us at the huge oak doors and let us into the convent/hotel located in the Farnese Piazza next door to the Palazzo Farnese, which is now the French Embassy.  In the meeting room we were greeted by an older nun who could not have been over four foot eight and spoke only Italian. Sister Gertrude is the only fluent English speaking nun here at the convent.  Most of the nuns are Indian or Italian. Showing us to our room on the third floor we managed to get our luggage and three people in the elevator meant for one. I was so thankful for that elevator though!  Our room was spotless and the size of most Italian hotel rooms. To get there we passed a small television room and chapel. My daughter and I unpacked and quickly headed out to explore Trastevere, an old neighborhood where the locals live just across the Tiber River. The streets are narrow and the crowds are not here so it is great to explore.  We stopped at a small restaurant with outdoor seating called Gabriels and Gabriella’s right next door to the Church of Santa Maria.  With the bells tolling we dined on fresh pasta and homemade foccaccia with rosemary served in a paper bag.  As it was getting hot we went back to the Convent to rest before going out into the piazza at night.

The Main Entrance Santa Brigida

The Main Entrance Santa Brigida

Flowers in Trastevere

Flowers in Trastevere

Trastevere

Trastevere

Santa Brigida

Santa Brigida

Il Negozio di Alimentari (Grocery Store)

Sant Antonio, Montepulciano

Sant Antonio, Montepulciano

I was on the plane from DC to Zurich. At the beginning of the flight the seat next to me was empty for a while, then the stewardess directed a young man to the seat.  He proceeded to strip.  One layer of shirts after another, six layers in all.  He folded everything precisely and placed them in a Disneyland plastic sack. As he sat down he added that he was wearing several layers of pants too.  We got to talking.  The young man from Switzerland had been in the US on a student exchange and work program. But, he also had been shopping.  In Wal-Mart.  He told me he had never seen anything like it.  So much to choose from, so cheap. When he was not working he was at Wal-Mart shopping. He had bought gifts for all his friends and perfume for his mother.

On the train from Switzerland to Italy a young couple boarded the train struggling  with huge suitcases almost bigger than they were. I struck up a conversation with the shy young woman from Indonesia while my husband talked with her husband.
“Have you been to the US,”  I asked.  Yes, her husband had studied there.
I eventually got around to, “What did you like best about the US?”
“Shopping in Wal-Mart, my husband would drop me off and I would spend the entire day there.”  Her eyes lit up as she talked about her shopping experiences.

Shopping in Wal-Mart.  I heard it over and over. Visitors to the US loved walking down all the aisles, looking at all the merchandise.  The Wal-Mart that had the grocery store included was a special treat for them. Double delight.

Shopping in Montepulciano

Shopping in Montepulciano The grocery is to the right with red letters on the building

I know what they mean.  My first grocery shopping experience  in Italy was a highlight for me. We arrived at the monastery outside  Montepulciano on a Saturday night and at the welcome/introduction were told the grocery shops were closed on Sunday in Italy.  After the welcome the guests made a beeline to their cars and the grocery store on the outskirts of Montepulciano.  We had to wait a while to get a parking spot.  It wasn’t really a parking lot just a pull in.  Cars were parked  at the front doors of the shop like someone had just dropped someone off so they could run in.  Except no one was waiting in the car.  Finally we followed other cars to the church lot on the corner and squeezed the car into the piggly wiggly parking spaces. There was no rhyme or reason to the parking.  It looked like the cars had just stopped and parked.  It didn’t matter if you were blocking cars or if the backend of the car blocked the road.  Total chaos. It was exciting!  We walked down the hill and into the store that looked on the outside like any grocery store in the US only smaller.   There were not many carts and the store was crowded with shoppers.  In order to get a cart you put a euro into the box on the cart to release it from the line.  The aisles were tiny with just enough room for the cart to pass.  As we zipped around the store I tried to figure out what the items were by looking at the pictures on the labels.  I found peanut butter next to the Nutella.  Was Nutella peanut butter?  There was lots of that. We got to the vegetables and fruit. I’ve learned to watch before I leap.  The women placed plastic gloves on before touching the fruit or vegetables. I followed suit. There was a counter with meats and cheeses that I just pointed to as I made my selections. The store closed at six, hurry hurry. There was an aisle of t-shirts, shoes, mops and brooms. At the check out the woman gestured, did we have a bag for the groceries?  No? Plastic disposable bags  were dispensed, with a fee of one euro.  A deep breath and out the door we went. What did we buy?  It was all such a blur to hurry up and shop.

Uptown Menaggio

Uptown Menaggio

Another time arriving in Menaggio,  late on Saturday afternoon, we walked up the hill from the boat dock.  On the corner was an old building with a grand stone stair entry that faced two sides of the street.  It was the local grocery complete with so many sticker advertisements on the windows one could not see in or out.  While I stayed at the bottom of the stairs with the luggage my husband hiked up the stairs and into the shop.  I waited and waited and waited.  Finally he came out with two cans of coke, Pringle looking chips and candy bars.  What?  “You will not believe that store, it is one way with yellow tape arrows on the floor to direct you through the aisle. I had to go around twice to find this stuff,”  my harried husband revealed. I would get my chance to see the grocery later in the week.

On my visit to the store I found items from the floor to the ceiling.  How you reached the items on the top of the shelves was beyond me.  Everything was jumbled together so I had to go slow and look at it all. There was a vegetable and fruit section with a young woman there to provide you with the plastic gloves.  I had to go around the store three times to find my items, each time passing the cashier, leaving my items, and then going out and in again.  If there was someone behind me with a cart they had to go at my pace because the aisle wasn’t big enough to pass. The store had everything, I just had to really look for it.  Again I paid for my plastic sack.  One thing you didn’t have to worry about was parking.  There wasn’t any. No one would take out a grocery cart. You had to go up and down many steps to get in or out. There wouldn’t be  weekly shopping, too much to lug home at once.  Daily shopping, walk to get there, bring your sack.  I also did not notice any new cars.  The small cars had scrapes, scratches and dents on them. The buildings had swatches of color  on their walls that matched the  colors of the cars. Nobody got too bent out of shape over parking here. Just stop the car and get out.

Shopping in small towns

Shopping in small towns

Italy Sep _ Oct 2009 656Italy Sep _ Oct 2009 679In the smaller villages of Italy the grocery shopping is more defined.  A different shop for selected items.  The wine store, the cheese shop, the butcher, the baker.  I didn’t find a candlestick maker.  These shops tend to be very small and full! Everyone knows everyone. I had a great time.  Enjoy the pictures of the shops in Italy!

Pinocchio and Pizza

Montepulciano Italy

Montepulciano Italy

I would rather eat a fresh baked piece of bread than just about anything. To tell the truth, I could eat an entire loaf if left to my vices.  For Italian bread lovers there is focaccia, ciabatta, pizza. FCP. I love it all.  Italian rustic bread with olives and rosemary, bring it on.   In Florence I was first introduced to Ribollita, day old bread covered in a tuscan vegetable soup (reboiled day old soup).    Italy is famous for using day old bread/ no salt bread, in their dishes and I was curious about this. In one of the most popular places for cuisine on earth, recipes have developed from a history of malnutrition and hunger. During the war, the working class lived on what they could gain from their meager rations and gather from the land.

The cookbook, Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Johns, tells the story of Tuscan peasant cooking.  Simple dishes inspired from fresh seasonal ingredients, cooking and eating in season. It is also a history book and picture book.  Traveling throughout Italy Johns interviews older people to see how they managed during hard times. They tell heart warming stories  and share their recipes and how they cook and how their parents cooked in days gone by. The photographs capture the Tuscan countryside, the families, and the prepared dishes. Most of these men and women ate bread that was baked in the community forno (furnace/oven) once a week.  Salt, which was highly taxed, was too expensive to use in bread.  It  was needed for curing meat and making cheese, not making bread.  Bread made without salt quickly dries out, because the salt holds in the moisture. Nothing was wasted, so dishes prepared including  dried out bread were essential for survival. From these facts classic Italian recipes were born.  Panzanella anyone?  Bread salad made from day old bread, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olive oil and basil. I can not wait!

Uptown Montepulciano Italy

Uptown Montepulciano Italy

Pamela Sheldon Johns, the author of Cucina Povera, owns a bed and breakfast (I wanted to write Bread and Breakfast) called Agriturismo (Farmhouse) Poggio Etrusco and teaches cooking classes there. It is located outside Montepulciano, Italy where I am going to a language school.  I will not have a car while I am there and did not know about this place when I made my arrangements for the school, otherwise I truly would have considered staying there.  She speaks very highly of the village cobbler, Virio Neri and he speaks highly of his mother’s cooking. These are pictures of Montepulciano, where I will be living for almost a month.Italy Sep _ Oct 2009 392 Italy Sep _ Oct 2009 393

Notice the guy on the roof that looks like Pinocchio? I wonder if that is who he is?  Pinocchio can be found in full glory all around Florence. So maybe he is here too?
Carlo Collodi, the pen name of Carlo Lorenzini, was born in Florence, Italy in 1826.  He wrote   de Avventures di Pinocchio. (Italian spelling). It was published in a weekly newspaper written for children called, Il Giornale per i Bambini.  In the early versions of Pinocchio, Pinocchio was made of bread, not wood, and at the end of the story he was hung.  A little radical for a children’s fairy tale.  So the story  was re-written and Pinocchio was fashioned from a piece of wood and taken care of by the carpenter/woodcarver, Geppetto.  As we all know reading Pinocchio, all he wanted was to be a real boy and go to school. Well we know his nose grows when he lies too.  I think all Pinocchio wanted was to be a real boy and EAT bread and pizza. I am going to try to find Mr. Neri, in Montepulciano. After all, he is the carpenter of Montepulciano and he cooks.

Charleston For Easter

Some of the window treatments and planters in Charleston

The Windows of Charleston

DSCN0018

This post is a break of sorts from the Italian vacation prep.  Well sort of. My husband and I just returned from Charleston, one of the greatest cities in the United States.  It has everything……  cozy neighborhoods, fantastic architecture, history, cobblestone and cannonball streets, terrific shopping, sea breezes, did I mention the food?  Fabulous!  We spent the weekend walking, walking and more walking the neighborhoods, which I never tire of.  I love the vibrant colors on the homes, one of my favorites is the tangerine color of these shutters.  Or maybe the cameo pink of the skinny house. Or maybe the pigeon white of the antebellum. I really can’t decide which one I like best!  Temperature in the seventies, the azaleas were in bloom, the fountains gurgling.  Around every corner is a hidden garden, certainly one on the side of the Charleston House.  We peek through the wrought iron gates.  The flower boxes are overflowing at the windows. The churches, especially St Michaels and St Phillips were decked out in fine Easter greenery and floral arrangements were going up on the doors, along the pews and at the altar on Saturday.   The ladies stroll Market Street in Easter parade outfits wearing beautiful flowing dresses, pastel hats and gloves. It’s been a while since I saw women so dressed up. Reminded me that I do own a fancy hat!DSCN0021DSCN0088DSCN0059DSCN0026DSCN0064DSCN0066DSCN0050

I also had a method to my madness. I was breaking in a new camera.  I wanted to make sure I could take the shots I wanted without fiddling with the camera for ten minutes.  I like to shoot and go.  My current Canon camera has an eye problem.  The shutter won’t shut all the way or it catches sometimes and won’t close at all.  So I opted for a Nikon with lots of buttons, settings and zooooooom.  I have my friend Katy from PraguebyKaty to thank for even thinking about getting a different camera.  She takes wonderful pictures. She takes unusual shots and great videos too.  Who knew a camera could have twenty scene descriptions alone? I know indoor and outdoor, ha!  This camera has a close-up, food, snow, beach, fireworks, museum, dusk/dawn, sunset, party/ indoor, panorama and pet portrait, to name a few.  For the first hour or two I had the camera on auto select. It kept telling me I needed the flash, but it seemed really sunny out to me. So I snapped away with the flash on.  The pictures looked washed out.  Then I switched to the scene mode.  Much better! I didn’t get the really flashy camera, with different lenses and such.  Too much to learn before I leave for Italy.  I’ll keep playing with this one until I get it right. Here are more of the pictures I took in Charleston.DSCN0073DSCN0102DSCN0032

There are plenty of great restaurants here.  This time we tried out some that were new to us and we were not disappointed.  Now I must add here that I have been on Nutrisystem since January 1st and eating out in Charleston was  a delight I had been saving up for. I love low country food.  Shrimp and grits, fried green tomatoes, mustard roasted brussels sprouts. The first place we went to was The Dixie Supply Bakery & Cafe.  A hole in the wall place,  that could easily be passed by. The locals eat here, need I say more?  We just wanted a no fuss lunch and to eat outside in the nice weather.  The place was packed both indoors and out.  The Dixie Burger is a hamburger with fried green tomatoes, bacon and pimento cheese.  AND homemade pickles on the side.  Awesome!  The other items that caught my eye were the tomato pie and the bacon pecan pie.  I didn’t try those, but I wanted to.  Oh and they serve Nehi Orange in the bottle.  Can’t remember the last time I had a Nehi.  I was in heaven!DSCN0009DSCN0008

Going to Charleston was also a chance to  break in shoes.  The shoes I am thinking about taking to Italy.  I wanted to get some mileage on those shoes.  Would they be comfortable after walking three to six hours? I test all shoes before I pack them in the suitcase. Many hours, many miles.  It will save me heartache and foot ache later. My favorite shoe shop is the Charleston Shoe Company.  They specialize in the cobblestone to cocktail shoe. The shoes are very stylish, come in a bazillion colors and styles and are very comfortable. They are machine washable!!!!! I am showing some of my favorites here that I am narrowing down for the trip.  I really am leaning toward the red to wear as my dress up shoes.  Maybe I will see the Pope and we can compare shoes!DSCN0127DSCN0100DSCN0126

Keeping Connected…..

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Now I am no spring chicken so I need all the help I can get! I love phone apps! It makes traveling so much easier.  Want to take a picture without fooling with your camera?  You can take pictures several ways on your phone!  Want to have directions to the museum, restaurant or hotel?  There is an app for that.  How about a map of the city?  I don’t know about you, but it is easy to spot a tourist with the big map, guide books, white tennis shoes and huge camera around their neck standing in the middle of the sidewalk blocking the way and looking very puzzled. I know, I’ve been there. Time to move on…… go to apps!  At least with a phone and most of your favorite apps at your disposal you can get to them quickly.  Or if you need to study something in your app sites, sit down and have a latte (great shot of that) and pull yourself together. One of my favorite apps is the City Guides  from Trip Advisor. ( Yes, them again and no I do not work for them) If I could take just one app (I would never survive that) this would be the one! First pick your destination.  They have the larger cities well covered in all the continents. From your picked destination it will download your personal maplet.  For instance, this year I am heading back to Rome, so I picked Rome as my destination. Now I have at my fingertips a Map, Restaurants, Hotels, Attractions, SUGGESTED ITINERARIES, Nightlife, SHOPPING, Tours and Tickets.  Click on any of these areas for detailed information.  Let’s take SUGGESTED ITINERARIES.  Let’s say I pick Vatican City. The first thing it says is suggested time to allow.  Now I am a talker and questioner and slow, so I add more time than is suggested.  I’m just sayin’! It will also show how many stops or sights to be seen, and the distance covered. It starts with an overall description of what you are going to see.  Then press GO. There will now be a map with all the stops marked and numbered. As you visit each site, a picture and a short description will pop up so you know exactly what it is you are looking at. There is so much to see so it’s good to know which building or statue or whatever, that they want to point out.  Sometimes I have not been sure, so having a picture is a big help. Then you can press the CHECK IN button and snap your own photo and add a description if you want to.  Then go to number two and so on until the tour is finished. Absolutely wonderful!

Now for SHOPPING. Pick the entire city or just the neighborhood you want. Now choose OPTIONS and a Filter will pop up.  Do you want all shopping, or narrowed down to department stores, flea markets, antiques, clothing, etc?  Choose one or all. Now search whatever shop appeals to you. The picture of the store will pop up, a description, a map, a “point me there arrow”, a contact with phone number, address, and more. Also, how to get there, and what mode of transportation  you are closest to, to get there from where you currently are. Could not be easier!

In the Tours and Tickets area I picked “Eating Italy Food Tours in Rome.”  Again, there is a map, contact, address and phone number, description of the tour and why it was liked. Press BUY TICKETS do to so. The City Guides is so helpful and updated frequently at Trip Advisor. You can also rate anything you choose to do and that allows other followers to know what you think of a particular spot. As usual I’ve talked on and on, so more to come!

Next…… How to take a photo on my phone and what to do with it when I do…….

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