Food | The Travel Lady In Her Shoes

Oh Canada!!

Street Folk Music

Basse-Ville

The Beauty in the Walls

Today we are walking to Haute-Ville, the next layer of Quebec City. We leche-vitrine (window shop) along the Petit-Champlain passing lovely art galleries and shops, when I am compelled to stop at Pot en Ciel, a delightfully and artistically decorated kitchen ware shop that always seems to have the latest in cuisine accessories, cooking and table ware. Afterwards, mingling with the tourists from the cruise ships that dock and depart here, we take the funicular to the promenade walkway that is in the front of the famous and majestic Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, due in most part because of how it dominates the skyline of Quebec City. Designed by American architect, Bruce Price, it was one of a series of “chateau” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway during the late 19th century. The hotel was named for Louis de Baude, count of Frontenac, who was governor of the colony of New France from 1672 to 1698, with a few years off in the middle. In 1944 the Chateau became the action center of Quebec Conferences of WWII. A tour of the Chateau with costumed tour guides gives you a glimpse into the rooms of “The Who’s Who of Who Has Slept Here” (my term, don’t ask for that as the tour!).

A View from the Funicular

The Cruise Ships

The Frontenac Hotel

The Promenade

The View of the Frontenac and the Promenade

The sight is breathtaking. Here artists and musicians reveal their talents as we walk the promenade gazing down at the cruise ships in Vieux-Port and up, up, up at the Frontenec Hotel. It looks like a castle, but has always been a grand scale hotel. I am sad to say many tourists go no farther than the promenade and surrounding shops and restaurants. Meandering through the streets we find shops, cafes, restaurants and charming fall displays.

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

Haute-Ville Streets

Some make it the tiny rue du Tresor, a small alleyway lined with working artists. For those who trek on, meandering the winding streets of Haute-Ville there are the Christmas shops, boutiques, plant landscapes and the Morrin Center awaiting you.

Plant Displays!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

The Morrin Center is one of my favorite stops. I can’t wait to show you this years decorations and pictures from past years! We’ll start there tomorrow! As we finish up the day we return to Vieux Quebec and one of the best restaurants in the quarter, the Lapin Saute, the rabbit restaurant. I love the food, ambiance and the outdoor decorations of this restaurant. It is truly what you would imagine a French bistro to be!

Le Lapin Saute

Outdoor Seating at Le Lapin (Notice the Rabbit Tables)

Le Lapin at Night

Inside Le Lapin

The Menu

The French Onion Soup

I began my meal with the french onion soup studded with a thick white Canadian cheese followed by the rabbit (french) cassoulet. Absolutely yummy! I was so digging into the cassoulet I forgot to take a picture!!!! I’m headed back to the Germain-Dominion Hotel and after a mocha night cap I’m off to bed! See you tomorrow at the Morrin Center!

For more information about Pot en Ciel, 27 Petit Champlain, Quebec, Canada view http://www.quartierpetitchamplain.com for a street map of all the shops and restaurants located there.

For information on the Chateau Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrieres, view TripAdvisor.

For information on Le Lapin Saute, 52 Rue Du Petit-Champlain see TripAdvisor.

The Most European City in North America!

Fountain in Vieux Quebec near Hotel Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

Driving the back roads to Quebec City, I am on the lookout for the signs warning of the snow mobile crossings. The paths zig-zag along the highway and at intervals swoop across the road. I daydream about going to grandma’s for Thanksgiving in a snowmobile. The trees would zip by, the air is filled with the scent of pine and wood smoke, and the wind puts roses on my cheeks! I’d get to grandma’s ready to sit by the fire with the aroma of the Thanksgiving meal surrounding me! Heaven! I get that comfortable and at home feeling when I go to my favorite hotel in Quebec City, the Hotel Le Germain-Dominion in the old town of Quebec City. The hotel is easy to find, has an attendant parking lot that is located behind the hotel and is in a perfect location for exploring Quebec City. The hotel itself is in a section of bank buildings. With the first bonjour you are in for a very special stay.

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

I’m not talking Bank of America here, I mean when banks were banks with grand entry ways, fresco ceilings and huge draped crystal chandeliers. It looks more like a ballroom. THAT bank is still here on the corner. Can you imagine? Just walking in you would hope for a line to wait in, so you could enjoy the surroundings! It takes up the entire block and one section on the opposite end corner has been converted into Le Germain-Dominion Hotel. When one walks into the lobby of the hotel, it is a small part of a larger room.

Inside the Lobby le Germaine-Dominion Hotel

Inside the Lobby Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

A room with a huge fireplace and comfy squashy sofas and chairs surrounding the fireplace. In the center of the room is an extensive coffee station with a massive brewer to make cafes, au laits, mochas, and more, to serve in china cups and bowls. You know already how I like the bowls (bols) of au lait!

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

There are also large tables, I’m talking wide, wide, wide dining room size tables and chairs to sit and spread your favorite newspaper out before you as you eat a healthy delicious breakfast in the morning. Or you can just relax and have coffee, tea, wine or liqueur at any time of day. In the mornings I love to come down here and see everyone spread out at the tables. Eating like this also makes it easy to join in conversation with other guests as we sit, eat and enjoy our spread out newspapers. I love the Globe and Mail Newspaper! The paper is thin, shiny and in color, with the best articles ever on what is happening in Quebec. I can really enjoy the morning breakfasts. No one seems rushed, although there is an additional section where the business men tend to gather for early or late meetings. In the evenings the guests linger by the fireplace drinking coffee or wine and discussing their day, politics, where they are from or where they are going. Great conversations, and just as comfortable and hospitable as being at grandma’s for the holiday. Taking the elevator to the rooms, stepping off the elevator you enter a bank vault door (an original) which tells you which section of the hotel you are in.

The Room at Le Germain-Dominion Boutique Hotel

The rooms are very large, modern, boutique style with HUGE walk in, glassed, rain showers that offer every amenity possible.

The Glassed Rain Shower

Returning downstairs, after my bol de au lait, I am out the door to walk the 17th Century neighborhoods of Vieux Quebec /Old Town Quebec City.

The Restaurants on my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A Restaurant along my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenec Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenac Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

The Funicular to Upper Quebec City

Shops in Vieux Quebec

Rue du Petit-Champlain

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

Place Royale

Place Royale Square

Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica as Night Falls

As night begins to fall, our destination is the La Piazzetta, on the corner of rue Saint-Paul, right across from the hotel. The restaurant offers a tiny cozy atmosphere and friendly knowledgeable staff helping us with our french, and serving home made pizzas with farm fresh ingredients. The pizzas are so large the pizza tin in perched on a side extension of the table, so it looks like it is floating in the air. We started off with an appetizer of Canadian cheese and warm fruit and an assortment of bread and sticks. The cafe was a buzz of guests enjoying their meals.

La Piazzetta

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

Afterwards we return to the hotel for a good night’s rest and look forward for our day tomorrow in Basse-Ville, the lower town of Quebec City. See you there!

For more information about Le Hotel Germain-Dominion see: http://www.germaindominion.com, 126 rue Saint-Pierre, Quebec City, Canada

La Piazzetta is located at 63 rue Saint-Paul, Vieux-Port, Quebec Canada

Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica, 16 rue Buade, is free and open to the public. There are also tours of the crypt available. See: http://www.patrimoine-religieux.com

Sutton Re-Visited

Le Pleasant Hotel/B&B

This morning we are up and at ‘em very early to make our way into Canada and our second stop after the French-Canadian hunk, who checked our passports and asked us a bazillion questions, is one of my favorite villages, Sutton. This year we are staying at Le Pleasant, the village’s turn of the century grand home of the local doctor turned restaurant, hotel/bed and breakfast. We were greeted warmly by Micheal and shown to our bright front room-second floor guest suite in modern black and grey decor.

Our Room at Le Pleasant

The entire home was lovingly restored by Bertin and Michael who moved from Montreal to Sutton to start their bed & breakfast business. The hotel is centrally located in the village, which is easily walkable in fifteen minutes. After settling in we headed over toLe Cafetier, the local cafe for my coffee fix.

Le Cafetier

A Bowl of Cafe au Lait

This is cafe au lait that I can drink from a bowl here. The Canadians have got coffee right. We ordered sandwiches and enjoyed the ambiance of the small French village.

Le Sandwich

Our next stop was Au Couer des Saisons, a beautifully decorated shop for all seasons owned by Elaine. She is the owner of the kitchenware and gift shop which includes being the local florist, and jeweler.

Ou Couer des Soisons

We spent a lively time translating, talking and laughing with Elaine (I hope I am spelling her name correctly) while discovering the credit card safe wallets, new kitchen gadgets and every soap and fragrance! This is what is so magical about a locally owned shop and small village, you get to know the locals and feel part of the neighborhood. That afternoon Micheal suggested a restaurant in nearby Frelighsburg, since their restaurant is closed on Monday evenings. He made the reservation and printed out a map for us. Traveling in the country, at night, can be a challenge for the map impaired like I am. My car had a GPS system that did not know where I was either! So early evening, while it was still light, we set off for Frelighsburg and the Lyvano Restaurant. Now, I want you to know it is VERY DARK in the country here. There are no country light posts and the homes are few and far between. However, they have the most amazing guard rails where needed. Believe me when I say they glow in the dark! They glow in the dark BRIGHTLY and can be seen only when your headlights shine on them. I couldn’t figure out how they worked. Were they actually small lights? Reflective tape? I slowed down and pulled over to take a closer look. Reflective tape!!!!!! It is truly amazing. This stuff should be slapped on your child at night! I kept thinking how very dark it was with no lights. Is this the dirt road where I turn left? It crossed my mind, “Is this where flying saucers land and abduct you”? Just as I was getting a little nervous I would see the reflectors. “Hmm…… This would make an excellent landing area for those space ships and here is the way!” I pointed out markers to help me remember where to make critical turns on the way home when it would be REALLY DARK! Turn left at that thingy that looks like a white cross swooping in the woods, turn right at the thing on the fence that looks like a scarecrow, turn left at that sweet woman’ s house (that I know must live in that one house) that has it’s porch light on. We made it into Frelighsburg as the mist and light rain set in. Now where was the parking lot? I didn’t see one and there was no parking in front of the restaurant with the “Ouvre” flag blowing in the breeze. Hmm. I pulled into a tiny shopping area parking lot to a few blocks away to sleuth. I waited. Surely, there would be others going in the restaurant? I had time to wait. Finally, a car rolled slowly down the street and pulled between two buildings across the street from Lyvano. I watched as several people walked to the restaurant from those buildings and then drove my car to the buildings as well. There was no parking there unless you wanted to park in someone’s driveway. I went back to the grocery parking lot, parked and got out. As we walked to the restaurant I heard the rushing of water and noticed there was a roaring river or stream on the backside of the restaurant where tables with umbrellas were set up. How beautiful this setting would be on a clear night! Tonight was a Halloween night, misty, windy and spooky. We entered the tiny restaurant decorated as a Paris bistro, including a twisted tree vine intertwined with soft white twinkle lights on the ceiling.

Inside Lyvano

After the waiter helped us interpret the menu we were delighted to eat one the best meals I have ever eaten.

Filet et legumes

After that we had to try the desert.

Le dessert

We enjoyed talking with the waiter, and talking to Elizabeth, the twenty something chef, who is also the owner of this superb restaurant. Completely satisfied we ventured out into the night to make our way down the twisted country roads between forests and cornfields. Following my girl-map markers we found Le Pleasant again and took the staircase to our warm comfy beds. In the morning we were again greeted by Bertin and Micheal at breakfast, served in their lovely restaurant on the first floor of the hotel.

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

Breakfast at its Best!

The food was delicious, but it was time to say goodbye for this year to our good friends in Sutton. We travel north to Quebec City on some roads with fields marked with Celtic rock mounds!

The Road to Quebec City!

For details about Le Pleasant Hotel, 1 rue Pleasant, Sutton, Quebec, Canada see: http://www.lepleasant.com

For the best shopping in Sutton see: Ou Couer des Soisons, 4 rue Maple, Sutton, Canada

For an incredible meal see Lyvano Restaurant, 4 rue Principale, Freilighsburg,Canada and Le Cafetier is the best cafe in Sutton, found on the main street, Sutton, Canada.

Cinnamon, Apple Cider and Cloves! Oh My!

Soup and Sandwich at King Arthur’s Bakery

Bonjour! I have returned from a wonderful vacation in Quebec Canada! It is always so beautiful there at this time of year and the Quebecois go all out to make sure everything is decked out for their Thanksgiving on the first Monday in October. My first stop was Burlington, Vermont where I flew into on a bright sunny day and then drove on to White River Junction, where I stayed overnight so that I might visit King Arthur Flour Bakery, Store and Cafe in Norwich, Vermont, before heading into Canada. I am a big fan of King Arthur products and was not disappointed with their new facilities for a baking school, cafe and shopping. King Arthur’s Bakery Cafe was packed on Sunday afternoon!

King Arthur Bakery Cafe

I wish my blog post could have one of those scratch and smell labels on it! Can you smell the pumpkin spice scones, cheddar and herb biscuits, and caramel apple cinnamon buns? I liked it when I received my receipt for my food and it showed all the ingredients of the sandwich and soup and who had made it. We were seated in a large room where the guests could leisurely eat and relax, while some drank coffee and read the newspaper or worked at their computers. Next, I spent a long while looking over all the aisles of cooking goodies in the shopping area. I could spend hours, and usually do, in any kind of cookware or kitchen shop.

The Bakery Store

It was interesting to see the displays of the items I order online along with new items just released in time for the upcoming holidays. Heaven! A new product I had not seen before and proved to very popular at King Arthur’s and later in Sutton and Quebec Canada as well, were the Sunflower lids in the US and the Lily Pads in Canada.

The Sunflower Lid

The Lily Pad Lid

They are silicone lids that seal tight on all smooth rims, stainless steel, glass, plastic and melamine. They stay air tight to prevent spills in the refrigerator (no more looking for the right lid or stretching the plastic wrap) to preserve your food. Use in to the microwave (no paper towel to cover that food) and oven to seal for reheating or baking. Saves on plastic wrap, can be reused forever and they come in all sizes! They are good up to 428 degrees, or -40 degrees, oven, microwave and dishwasher safe! I bought two sunflowers at King Arthur, two different sizes of Lily Pads in my favorite shop in Sutton and three more in my favorite cooking shop in Quebec City. The Bakery and Store is located in a valley and as evening came upon us the clouds drifted down to create a Halloween atmosphere as we headed back to White River Junction for the evening.

Decked Out for Fall

King Arthur Bakery and Store

EEK!

On to Canada!

Follow the road as we head into Canada! The scenery is gorgeous!

For more information on the best baking products in the world see:

King Arthur Flour and the Bakers Catalog, or http://www.kingarthurflour.com for products, recipes, videos and more!

or visit their Baker’s Store at 135 Route 5, South Norwich, Vermont, 05055

Off to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley

Manoir Hovey

Winding down the secluded entrance road surrounded by thirty-five acres of deep woods of pine and birch, we are headed to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley, Canada. It is a perfect cool crisp bright autumn day. The distinctive colored leaves gently float to the ground. Manoir Hovey, a five star inn was featured in the book Rule Against Murder, by Louise Penny and has become one of our favorite inns.

The Gardens at Manoir Hovey

Our Balcony at Manoir Hovey

The Flowers

The Manoir is secluded on Lake Massawippi and features a main lodge nestled in a beautiful garden setting and unique cabins suites along the water. On our first trip we stayed in the lodge, in a beautiful corner room complete with a fireplace and overlooking the gardens, but on other trips we have stayed in the Le Cartier Cabin suite closest to the water.

The Fireplace in our Room

Our Corner Room

Manoir Hovey Le Cartier Cabin

Le Cartier Cabin

Our Cabin at Manoir Hovey

The Fireplace in the Cabin Le Cartier

The Road to the Cabins

It was beautiful to wake up to the sun shimmering on the water, the sound of geese flying overhead and the whir of outboard motors. We could sit on the dock and drink our morning coffee before walking up to the lodge for a brunch breakfast.

Our Dock

The restaurant, Le Hatley, is first class, serving excellent food, where you can choose the garden setting or a place by the huge fireplace crackling in the dining room. Afterwards, the library feels warm and inviting as you curl up to read the morning paper in front of the large stone fireplace. Downstairs is a bar and another fireplace setting where the guests can meet and mingle. It is so inviting in the evenings. The bar is like sitting in a cozy cabin in the woods.

The Pub at Manoir Hovey

This is the place for relaxation and complete indulgence at any time of year. Our favorite time is Fall.

To learn more about Manoir Hovey in North Hatley see: http://www.manoirhovey.com

On the Road to Quebec

The Countryside in Quebec Canada

Autumn is right around the corner. That would be a long corner here in the South. Today it is 85 degrees outside. Eventually, the leaves on the trees will turn to flaming red, brilliant orange and deep green. They will last for two or three days and then drop off. I am ready for autumn now. A long beautiful autumn with brilliant colored trees, cool crisp days and evenings by the fireplace with mugs of apple cider. My thoughts turn to Quebec. Autumn comes early in this paradise of color. Their Thanksgiving festivals are in early October. Leave the holiday to the end of October and there is a good chance for snow on your pumpkin.

The Colors of Quebec

We flew into Montreal the first time we went to Canada, but now we fly to Burlington, Vermont and rent a car in the States and drive into Canada. The roads in Canada are easy to navigate. They are double lane with a median dividing them, small roads in the country with little to no traffic or gravel roads with a six foot drop on each side of it, an eye opener. The stop signs and street signs are also several feet higher than in the States so they can still be seen when the snow piles up beneath them. There is abundant scenery. Let’s start in Montreal. We visited the Montreal Botanical Gardens and loved the Japanese Garden.

The Japanese Garden in the Montreal Botanical Gardens

Canadians deck out the town for Fall and there are beautiful foliage arrangements and pumpkins everywhere. If you look up ghostly exhibits await you.

Fall Window Boxes

Window Displays are Everywhere

When I was looking over my pictures for Quebec it dawned on me that I first went to the region in 2008 to meet the author, Louise Penny, for a book review and signing. When I think about it many of my planned excursions have been based on what I have read about the area in a book. I don’t know why I did not realize that before now.

Since that first meeting with Louise Penny, we have made several trips to Quebec, Canada, but always in the Fall. Louise Penny writes a mystery series about Chief Inspector Armand Gamache and a fictitious tiny village in Quebec, Canada, Three Pines. Louise’s latest book, How the Light Gets In , is #1 in Mysteries on the New York Times Bestseller List. I have read all her books (start at the beginning) but I did not want to put this book down. This is her ninth book and they all have been a delight to read. You will fall in love with all the characters and follow them along, in their ups and downs, throughout the series. Here are some pictures from the first book review I attended meeting Louise Penny in Knowlton, Quebec, Canada at Lake Brome Books, a tiny cozy shop nestled in a cluster of wooden buildings along the waterfront. In the bookshop you will discover a walkway to a small bistro with the best pumpkin pie I have ever eaten!

Lake Brome Books

Louise Penny

Knowlton, Quebec Canada

We visited the small village of Sutton, which is also a back drop for Three Pines village Louise writes into her mysteries. On an early Sunday morning we were treated to fiddle playing and the singing of old Quebec tunes in a small bistro on Principale St while we munched on homemade delights. There is also a market that sells homemade breads, local meats, cheeses and compotes that was busy serving up fresh turkeys and trimmings, and pies for the locals to take home and prepare for their Thanksgiving. The entire village had a festive feeling!

Town Hall Sutton, Canada

The Sutton Shoppes

It is such a joy to explore these tiny hamlets in the Eastern Provence of Canada!

To learn more about Louise Penny visit http://www.louisepenny.com

Practice your French, we go next to North Hatley, Quebec Canada, a must do Fall pilgrimage!

How Many Steps Did You Say There Were?

Corniglia

We’re waiting at the train platform in Manarola. The sun is shining, but I am dressed like an Eskimo. Layered up I have on a long sleeved shirt (check), long pants (check), rain coat (check), scarf wound around my neck several times (check), the thingy ma jig wrapped around my head and ears (check), and my hiking boots and wool socks (check). Yep, I’m definitely on an Italian Riviera holiday! Walking through the tunnel to the train station I felt sorry for the woman playing the violin. It was even colder in that tunnel. She had to be freezing and her fingers numb. There are many hikers waiting at the train station too. There has been so much rain the hiking trails are closed for fear of mudslides. The hikers are wearing shorts, coats, big backpacks with what looks like TV antennas sticking out of them (their hiking poles) and everyone looks COLD. I am not a happy camper this morning. Then I see my Australian friends that I met in Chiuso and traveled on the train to Florence with. We have a good robust talk and it lifts my spirits. There are just some people you hit it off with immediately and this is the group. They are always smiling, laughing and talking. I am reminded that there is no bad weather, just improper clothing. I have on the proper clothing, so let’s go! My friends are off to Vernazza this morning and SB and I are off to Corniglia. Stand back, when the train flies in it can blow you right off the platform!

Corniglia, population 240, is the least touristy town in Cinque Terre because it does not have an ocean view beach front. It is remote with only a small number of restaurants, shops and inhabitants, but for some reason that is where I want to go today. Only three people on the train get off here, we are two of them. The train station in Corniglia is small and it is not a long walk to the tiny uphill street where a green shuttle van for the locals waits. Here we have to make a decision.

We can walk up the 380 stone steps to get to the village or do like the locals do and get on the green shuttle town van. We opt for the van and in a few minutes we are in the tiny town circle. The town square is a town circle. There are a few people milling around and to the side of town circle a cart is set up selling cheese and sausages. We decide to walk higher up the hill to get a better view. There is a small enotecha notched into the hillside with an entrance of glass bottles filled with wildflowers.

The Bottled Wildflowers

Some travelers are sitting outside under the terrace wrapped in their coats willing away the cold. Across from the enotecha the cliff drops off to the sea and is covered in grapevines. What we notice is the rail, one you would see on a roller coaster and a cart sitting on the rail. It is a cart to carry the picked grapes up the hill or down the hill, which ever may be the case.

The Grape Rail

We walk back down to the town circle and take a look at the notch in the wall of buildings to see what is down the only walkway, a characteristic alley called a carugi, through the village. To my surprise there are several restaurants, grocery shops, boutique shops, wine shops and gelato stops with a two foot wide stone center aisle separating the two sides of the walkway and shops on either side. Bonanza! I check them all out. I am fascinated by the design and decoration of the shops.

Shops in Corniglia

The shops are tiny, offer unique gifts locally made and I can practice my Italian with the proprietors. What more could I want? One of my favorite shops turns out to be Fanny’s Bazar with Sondra Righelli the proprietress. I like her fish dishes. That’ s what I call them. Pottery shaped in three sizes of fish, all painted in bright colors. How can I get those home without breaking them? Then there is the rope lady. She makes necklaces out of rope that looks like it has tied a boat to the wharf for a few centuries. The rope is woven and twisted with a shiny rock or two looped in to make each necklace unique.

We walk all the way to the town overlook of the sea. It is still sunny, blustery and cold up here, but the view is worth it. There is cactus and wildflowers in full bloom. The seagulls make big swoops along the edge of the wall. The ocean roars below. The view is incredible. We turn to head back to town circle and decide to eat at one of the stone caverns called Osteria a Cantina de Mananan, that we passed by earlier in the day. We walk up a few stone steps and inside the warm cozy cave we are greeted by a smiling mischievous looking grandfather type who seats us at a table.

Osteria a Cantina de Mananan

He tells us the meat sauce is made fresh daily along with the pasta. No second thoughts for me, pasta sounds wonderful. We enjoy the pasta, bread and local red wine along with our table mates who were from Minnesota. We carry on a delightful conversation with the proprietor, “Grandfather”. I really could have stayed in this small village the entire week, I liked it so much. As we waited for the shuttle bus back to the train station I had a good long “Italian” chat with a local woman. Maybe I should drink more, my Italian seems to get better. Maybe I’m just not worried if my Italian is correct or not. She understood me and I understood her. It turned out to be a perfect day!

Don’t miss Corniglia! It turned out to be my favorite place in Cinque Terre! You can find Fanny’s Bazar, the rope necklace shop and Osteria a Cantina de Mananan easily. Just climb 380 stone steps to the village of Corniglia, make a left at the town circle, follow the carugi between the buildings and have a fantastic day!

Are We There Yet?

Our Patio View of Manarola

Manarola

Off to Cinque Terre and let me tell you I was not excited about the train trip there, but couldn’t wait to see it! Cinque Terre consists of five towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare) along the Ligurian Sea coast connected by train, boat or a walking path. The train run from Florence to Pisa to La Spezia to Manarola was uneventful, thank God, just a lot of getting off and getting on a different train. We arrived in Manarola by late afternoon to a beautiful bright breezy day. When you get off the train in Manarola you walk through a long long tunnel to reach the little piazza circle mid town.

Steps to Middle Piazza, Manarola

The Piazza in the Middle of Manarola

A good looking young man was there from La Toretta to meet us and help us with the luggage. We started up a steep hill, curve, another hill, curve, another hill. I am huffing and puffing and I’m not even pulling luggage. Finally a small church at the top of the hill sits in another small piazza and we go down a few steps, up a few more steps walking through a maze of pastel colored palazzos.

The Hilltop Church in Manarola

A View from the Hilltop at Manarola

We end up on a terrace overlooking the sea and vineyards and are greeted by our hosts who offer champagne and a plate of selected finger food. We sit and take in the view. After a tour of the spa, meeting room, and hot tub we take a hike up more steps and twisty turns to the path to our apartment along the highest ridge of Manarola.

My Favorite Cottage in Manarola

Our Apartment at La Toretta

The Kitchen at La Toretta

Looking Out to the Patio at La Toretta

The Bedroom at La Toretta

What a place! A very large ultra modern apartment awaits us with a birds eye view of the town, sea, and vineyard. Did I mention the blue grey octopus mural above the couch and bed? Unbelievable! We sit on the patio and watch the world go by and the little old couple working (well she picks basil from the patch and he sits and watches her) in the garden below us, before heading to Billie’s, a favorite local restaurant that sits just below our path to the apartment, as we look out over the patio.

The Walk to our Apartment at La Toretta

Our Table at Billy’s

The weather has turned cooler and very gale like. The flags at Billies are flapping in the wind as we carefully pick our way down the stone steps to the lower terrace. I hold on to the wrought iron railing as I carefully step by step by step by step move down to our table located in the corner of the terrace. At home this stairway would be a lawyers dream come true, here it is a way of life unnoticed. The outdoor space is packed with guests as the wind continues to build. After we order, I watch as the waiters, who have to go up and down that staircase a bazillion times taking orders and carrying food, sometimes in the middle of the steep stairway, do a limbo move under the railing, jumping unto the terrace to the side. What? I keep watching and yes that is the way to the terrace to the left. As the guests leave from that terrace they too shimmy up and under the railing to the stairs. I surmise that is the terrace for the young and lithe. Showoffs, ha. We enjoy our meal of a local pasta dish that we had to eat rather quickly because it is getting cooler and cooler and the wind on the hillside has reached gale status. Now it is raining on my food, I’m up and up those stairs in a flash. Back to my warm octopus room. Tomorrow is another day!

Downtown Manarola

The Sea at Manarola

Manarola

For more info about La Toretta, 5 Terre National Park, Manarola, Italy. see TripAdvisor.
For more info about Trattoria dal Billy, Via Rollandi 122, Mararola, Italy see TripAdvisor.

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Florence

From the Rooftop of Antica Torre

Florence is my favorite city in Italy, bar none. Due to my harried arrival I was ready for a glass of wine on the roof top garden of Antica Torre. You can see the entire city from here and it is spectacular! There is an indoor garden and an outdoor garden with plenty of snacks and drinks and a friendly staff. After our welcome wine we ventured out into the nearby street to the Trattoria Carrozze.

Trattoria Carrozze

It was still raining cats and dogs so we followed suit at the restaurant and placed our umbrella at the door with the other odd forty of them. That is what you do with your umbrella in Italy, leave them at the door in the stands for them. I always leave with my own umbrella too. Miracles do happen. The penguin-dressed waiter led us to a table by the window of the rustic feeling establishment to dine on pasta and more wine. It was just like an old 40’s black and white movie, watching people hurry by on the cobblestone walkways, umbrellas open in the light hazy drizzle. After our dinner we strolled through the narrow passageways to Piazza della Signoria and the Rivoire Cafe.

Piazza della Signoria

This is my favorite cafe in THE WORLD for hot chocolate. Thick, thick, thick and chocolaty, chocolaty, chocolaty, with another great spot for people watching! If it hadn’t been drizzling we would have taken a table right on the Piazza. Inside the cafe people were buzzing like bees! While we waited for someone to leave, so we could take their seats, I eyed the counters of desserts. It all looked so yummy! Following another stroll to the Duomo we returned to the hotel to settle in for the night. I needed plenty of rest for the four train excursion the next day to the Cinque Terre!

The Duomo

A Classic Italian Room at Antica Torre

The Italian Look

Rooftop View

For information on Antica Torre see: http://www.tornabuoni1.com

For information on Trattoria Carrozze see TripAdvisor.

For information on Rivoire see TripAdvisor.

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Il Sasso A Day at School

Acquacheta, an Awesome Eating Experience!

Day One
I had to take a test. After finishing one third of a page on page one, I was whisked away for the oral section of the placement testing. I could hardly speak. I was placed in the Beginners Class which was fine by me. I was in that class for ten minutes when I was whisked off to the second floor and placed in a class with four men and one other woman. My first thought was “I have been demoted to lower than the beginners class, ” but as it turned out there were so many beginners we were separated into two classes. I could hardly call my classmates beginners. Two of the men knew a great deal of Italian, but wanted to be more comfortable speaking it at random, in different settings, off the cuff. A great deal more complicated then practicing from a book. We would get plenty of practice doing that. We had two teachers a day, each for two hour periods. Day one we learned the alphabet and how to pronounce it. Who knew that an A is not an A. A would be Ahhh. I would be EEEE. It was a wonder I could say anything in Italian. R was erra. S was esse. We would have worksheets to do, all the while the teacher speaking and teaching in Italian. If you did not understand something the teacher would look at you and say, do you understand? The reply and phrase I knew very well the entire time of my studies was Non lo so. I don’t know. She then would try to show by writing pictures on the chalkboard or explain it over and over until you got it. The teachers had the patience of saints and a very good sense of humor. One morning after studying the mercato and all the fruits and vegetables we could buy there, the afternoon teacher came in and in groups of two, the students went to the front of the class to do a skit. One student was the buyer and one student was the vendor and we bought and sold practicing our hellos and how much do I owe you and everything in between. It was fun, practical and nerve-wracking all at the same time. This was our routine everyday. With compiti almost every night. Homework, not a lot. Just enough to remind you to think about what you learned or would be learning the next day. So the classes consisted of work from a workbook, working with a great deal of extra printed material and speaking either in small groups or in front of the class. And of course answering the questions the teacher asked you, in Italian. It was challenging, fun, practical and I met several new friends from all over the world and in different levels of education. Many business and governments send their employees to Il Sasso to learn or perfect their Italian skills. The second week all but two students had finished their course and Andy and I moved up to Elementary 1 Level and joined other students. New teachers, new students and new material to learn. We learned a great deal, there was no loitering and we moved along at a fast pace. After the morning classes, there were options of private tutoring or field trips. Cooking classes, tours of the historic towns, and walks in the countryside were just some of the many choices to make your stay memorable. In the evenings the students would meet up at the local restaurants, trattorias, osterias, enotecas and bars, so we became good friends and learned from each other. The third week I had my third set of teachers. I liked having the rotation. The teachers were fantastic, humorous and very caring. They wanted you to succeed and have a good time. It was an experience I will remember for the rest of my life and keep me studying Italian. To all my Italian classmates and teachers, ciao, ciao!!!

On the next to last evening the class went to Acquacheta to dine. A small osteria, family owned that specializes in steak served family style. Steak cut to serve.

The Owner at Acquacheta Preparing the Meat

The Owner Showing the Steak for Approval

The Steak Closeup

If you would like more information about Il Sasso, Scuola di Italiano contact:

http://www.ilsasso.com

Via di Gracciano nel Corso 2

1-53045 Montepulciano, Italy

Facebook: Il Sasso- Italian Language School

If you would like more information about Osteria “Acquacheta”

http://www.acquacheta.eu

Via del Teatro, 22, Montepulciano, Italy

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Il Sasso A Day at School

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