Lodging | The Travel Lady In Her Shoes

Romancing the Stone Part II, Menaggio

Menaggio

What a wonderful first night we had! Our apartemento, Le Eriche, is perfect. With the bedroom shutters and the salon shutters open, a lovely perfumed breeze fills the air. What a way to wake up to the beautiful sunshine! Today we are headed down to Menaggio, via the local bus. It will pick us up early right outside our retreat or if we want to go later in the day we will walk down the road to the big curve. See (La Bella Lingua post for more info on that) Menaggio is picturesque and quaint with buildings of soft colored patinas of ocher, watermelon, cantaloupe and sage that seem to float in the sunlight. Menaggio is also the place to stay to avoid the hot, hot, hot afternoon sun rays. Of our three favorite villages, Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna, it is the only village draped in shade late in the afternoon. We enjoyed walking the promenade and eating at the outdoor restaurants along the beach. There is also a boat rental shop here, in case you want to rent your own boat to motor to the other villages and sights, without taking the ferry. Here are some of my favorite pictures of Menaggio!

Menaggio

My Favorite!

Heaven!

The Shore Square

Shore Square

Fun Along the Shoreline

Fun for Everyone!

The Promenade

The Restaurant

Here is what we came home to every night! I can not say enough wonderful words to describe the stay we experienced at the Apartment Le Eriche ! Thank you Piero and Fiametta!

Il Salotto

La Camera da Letto

La Cucina

Il Bagno

Apartment Le Eriche, Via Per Barna, Plesio, Italy or see TripAdvisor under their B&B of the same name.

The Marais

The Marais

The Gardens in Winter

The Tiny Streets

I loved the apartment in Paris! It felt like we were in an old black and white French film. Tiny, tiny streets, cafes on the corner, sing-alongs in the neighborhood, single room cave-like shops displaying clothing, jewelry, and perfume and people everywhere! Locals, no tourists! And the lights and decorations were fantastic. This is truly the city of lights! Blue, red and green glowing in the windows and on rooftops! We were in the Marais district, (the 3rd arrondissement) the Jewish neighborhood that has not changed in years, but seems to be the up and coming neighborhood keeping the charm of past times. We rented the apartment through ILoveParisApartments.com and our experience with them was one of the best. Preparations were made ahead of time and thanks to the apartment owners’ thoroughness, everything went according to the plan. Everything from directions to the apartment, how to operate the washing machine/dryer combination (who knew they made one machine for both!) and emergency numbers were given on the Apartment Fact Sheet that was emailed to us well in advance of our departure. I knew it was going to be in a quaint and coveted apartment when I got the email to be discreet, quiet and respectful of the neighbors, carry our bags over the cobblestones, and take off our shoes in the apartment. The instructions were right up there with the nuns in Rome! See the Rome trip…….https://cadyluckleedy.com/2013/04/30/off-to-roma/

In the living room and bedroom the floor length velvet drapes blocked out any drop of sunlight. The hardest bit for us, at first, was knowing what time of day it was. The sun comes up slowly around 9am and goes down around 5ish. Because of the height of the buildings and the heavy drapery it was hard to get up in the mornings, so we found we spent more time out in the evenings enjoying the lights. A very good plan!
Here are the innards of the Paris apartment. It was on the 2nd floor, (third US) reached by a one man, one suitcase elevator or stairs. Some of these pictures were made after we settled in so excuse the messiness!

The Entrance

The Apartment Entryway

The Courtyard

How About That Lock?

The Bedroom

The Living Room

The Kitchen

The Bathroom

Go to the Pot and Wash and Dry Your Clothes at the Same Time

I thought you might enjoy this washer/dryer combo commercial as well!

For more apartments in Paris see: http://www.ILoveParisApartments.com. We stayed in the St Paul 2 Picasso Apartment.

Oh Canada!!

Street Folk Music

Basse-Ville

The Beauty in the Walls

Today we are walking to Haute-Ville, the next layer of Quebec City. We leche-vitrine (window shop) along the Petit-Champlain passing lovely art galleries and shops, when I am compelled to stop at Pot en Ciel, a delightfully and artistically decorated kitchen ware shop that always seems to have the latest in cuisine accessories, cooking and table ware. Afterwards, mingling with the tourists from the cruise ships that dock and depart here, we take the funicular to the promenade walkway that is in the front of the famous and majestic Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, due in most part because of how it dominates the skyline of Quebec City. Designed by American architect, Bruce Price, it was one of a series of “chateau” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway during the late 19th century. The hotel was named for Louis de Baude, count of Frontenac, who was governor of the colony of New France from 1672 to 1698, with a few years off in the middle. In 1944 the Chateau became the action center of Quebec Conferences of WWII. A tour of the Chateau with costumed tour guides gives you a glimpse into the rooms of “The Who’s Who of Who Has Slept Here” (my term, don’t ask for that as the tour!).

A View from the Funicular

The Cruise Ships

The Frontenac Hotel

The Promenade

The View of the Frontenac and the Promenade

The sight is breathtaking. Here artists and musicians reveal their talents as we walk the promenade gazing down at the cruise ships in Vieux-Port and up, up, up at the Frontenec Hotel. It looks like a castle, but has always been a grand scale hotel. I am sad to say many tourists go no farther than the promenade and surrounding shops and restaurants. Meandering through the streets we find shops, cafes, restaurants and charming fall displays.

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

Haute-Ville Streets

Some make it the tiny rue du Tresor, a small alleyway lined with working artists. For those who trek on, meandering the winding streets of Haute-Ville there are the Christmas shops, boutiques, plant landscapes and the Morrin Center awaiting you.

Plant Displays!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

The Morrin Center is one of my favorite stops. I can’t wait to show you this years decorations and pictures from past years! We’ll start there tomorrow! As we finish up the day we return to Vieux Quebec and one of the best restaurants in the quarter, the Lapin Saute, the rabbit restaurant. I love the food, ambiance and the outdoor decorations of this restaurant. It is truly what you would imagine a French bistro to be!

Le Lapin Saute

Outdoor Seating at Le Lapin (Notice the Rabbit Tables)

Le Lapin at Night

Inside Le Lapin

The Menu

The French Onion Soup

I began my meal with the french onion soup studded with a thick white Canadian cheese followed by the rabbit (french) cassoulet. Absolutely yummy! I was so digging into the cassoulet I forgot to take a picture!!!! I’m headed back to the Germain-Dominion Hotel and after a mocha night cap I’m off to bed! See you tomorrow at the Morrin Center!

For more information about Pot en Ciel, 27 Petit Champlain, Quebec, Canada view http://www.quartierpetitchamplain.com for a street map of all the shops and restaurants located there.

For information on the Chateau Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrieres, view TripAdvisor.

For information on Le Lapin Saute, 52 Rue Du Petit-Champlain see TripAdvisor.

The Most European City in North America!

Fountain in Vieux Quebec near Hotel Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

Driving the back roads to Quebec City, I am on the lookout for the signs warning of the snow mobile crossings. The paths zig-zag along the highway and at intervals swoop across the road. I daydream about going to grandma’s for Thanksgiving in a snowmobile. The trees would zip by, the air is filled with the scent of pine and wood smoke, and the wind puts roses on my cheeks! I’d get to grandma’s ready to sit by the fire with the aroma of the Thanksgiving meal surrounding me! Heaven! I get that comfortable and at home feeling when I go to my favorite hotel in Quebec City, the Hotel Le Germain-Dominion in the old town of Quebec City. The hotel is easy to find, has an attendant parking lot that is located behind the hotel and is in a perfect location for exploring Quebec City. The hotel itself is in a section of bank buildings. With the first bonjour you are in for a very special stay.

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

I’m not talking Bank of America here, I mean when banks were banks with grand entry ways, fresco ceilings and huge draped crystal chandeliers. It looks more like a ballroom. THAT bank is still here on the corner. Can you imagine? Just walking in you would hope for a line to wait in, so you could enjoy the surroundings! It takes up the entire block and one section on the opposite end corner has been converted into Le Germain-Dominion Hotel. When one walks into the lobby of the hotel, it is a small part of a larger room.

Inside the Lobby le Germaine-Dominion Hotel

Inside the Lobby Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

A room with a huge fireplace and comfy squashy sofas and chairs surrounding the fireplace. In the center of the room is an extensive coffee station with a massive brewer to make cafes, au laits, mochas, and more, to serve in china cups and bowls. You know already how I like the bowls (bols) of au lait!

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

There are also large tables, I’m talking wide, wide, wide dining room size tables and chairs to sit and spread your favorite newspaper out before you as you eat a healthy delicious breakfast in the morning. Or you can just relax and have coffee, tea, wine or liqueur at any time of day. In the mornings I love to come down here and see everyone spread out at the tables. Eating like this also makes it easy to join in conversation with other guests as we sit, eat and enjoy our spread out newspapers. I love the Globe and Mail Newspaper! The paper is thin, shiny and in color, with the best articles ever on what is happening in Quebec. I can really enjoy the morning breakfasts. No one seems rushed, although there is an additional section where the business men tend to gather for early or late meetings. In the evenings the guests linger by the fireplace drinking coffee or wine and discussing their day, politics, where they are from or where they are going. Great conversations, and just as comfortable and hospitable as being at grandma’s for the holiday. Taking the elevator to the rooms, stepping off the elevator you enter a bank vault door (an original) which tells you which section of the hotel you are in.

The Room at Le Germain-Dominion Boutique Hotel

The rooms are very large, modern, boutique style with HUGE walk in, glassed, rain showers that offer every amenity possible.

The Glassed Rain Shower

Returning downstairs, after my bol de au lait, I am out the door to walk the 17th Century neighborhoods of Vieux Quebec /Old Town Quebec City.

The Restaurants on my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A Restaurant along my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenec Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenac Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

The Funicular to Upper Quebec City

Shops in Vieux Quebec

Rue du Petit-Champlain

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

Place Royale

Place Royale Square

Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica as Night Falls

As night begins to fall, our destination is the La Piazzetta, on the corner of rue Saint-Paul, right across from the hotel. The restaurant offers a tiny cozy atmosphere and friendly knowledgeable staff helping us with our french, and serving home made pizzas with farm fresh ingredients. The pizzas are so large the pizza tin in perched on a side extension of the table, so it looks like it is floating in the air. We started off with an appetizer of Canadian cheese and warm fruit and an assortment of bread and sticks. The cafe was a buzz of guests enjoying their meals.

La Piazzetta

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

Afterwards we return to the hotel for a good night’s rest and look forward for our day tomorrow in Basse-Ville, the lower town of Quebec City. See you there!

For more information about Le Hotel Germain-Dominion see: http://www.germaindominion.com, 126 rue Saint-Pierre, Quebec City, Canada

La Piazzetta is located at 63 rue Saint-Paul, Vieux-Port, Quebec Canada

Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica, 16 rue Buade, is free and open to the public. There are also tours of the crypt available. See: http://www.patrimoine-religieux.com

Sutton Re-Visited

Le Pleasant Hotel/B&B

This morning we are up and at ‘em very early to make our way into Canada and our second stop after the French-Canadian hunk, who checked our passports and asked us a bazillion questions, is one of my favorite villages, Sutton. This year we are staying at Le Pleasant, the village’s turn of the century grand home of the local doctor turned restaurant, hotel/bed and breakfast. We were greeted warmly by Micheal and shown to our bright front room-second floor guest suite in modern black and grey decor.

Our Room at Le Pleasant

The entire home was lovingly restored by Bertin and Michael who moved from Montreal to Sutton to start their bed & breakfast business. The hotel is centrally located in the village, which is easily walkable in fifteen minutes. After settling in we headed over toLe Cafetier, the local cafe for my coffee fix.

Le Cafetier

A Bowl of Cafe au Lait

This is cafe au lait that I can drink from a bowl here. The Canadians have got coffee right. We ordered sandwiches and enjoyed the ambiance of the small French village.

Le Sandwich

Our next stop was Au Couer des Saisons, a beautifully decorated shop for all seasons owned by Elaine. She is the owner of the kitchenware and gift shop which includes being the local florist, and jeweler.

Ou Couer des Soisons

We spent a lively time translating, talking and laughing with Elaine (I hope I am spelling her name correctly) while discovering the credit card safe wallets, new kitchen gadgets and every soap and fragrance! This is what is so magical about a locally owned shop and small village, you get to know the locals and feel part of the neighborhood. That afternoon Micheal suggested a restaurant in nearby Frelighsburg, since their restaurant is closed on Monday evenings. He made the reservation and printed out a map for us. Traveling in the country, at night, can be a challenge for the map impaired like I am. My car had a GPS system that did not know where I was either! So early evening, while it was still light, we set off for Frelighsburg and the Lyvano Restaurant. Now, I want you to know it is VERY DARK in the country here. There are no country light posts and the homes are few and far between. However, they have the most amazing guard rails where needed. Believe me when I say they glow in the dark! They glow in the dark BRIGHTLY and can be seen only when your headlights shine on them. I couldn’t figure out how they worked. Were they actually small lights? Reflective tape? I slowed down and pulled over to take a closer look. Reflective tape!!!!!! It is truly amazing. This stuff should be slapped on your child at night! I kept thinking how very dark it was with no lights. Is this the dirt road where I turn left? It crossed my mind, “Is this where flying saucers land and abduct you”? Just as I was getting a little nervous I would see the reflectors. “Hmm…… This would make an excellent landing area for those space ships and here is the way!” I pointed out markers to help me remember where to make critical turns on the way home when it would be REALLY DARK! Turn left at that thingy that looks like a white cross swooping in the woods, turn right at the thing on the fence that looks like a scarecrow, turn left at that sweet woman’ s house (that I know must live in that one house) that has it’s porch light on. We made it into Frelighsburg as the mist and light rain set in. Now where was the parking lot? I didn’t see one and there was no parking in front of the restaurant with the “Ouvre” flag blowing in the breeze. Hmm. I pulled into a tiny shopping area parking lot to a few blocks away to sleuth. I waited. Surely, there would be others going in the restaurant? I had time to wait. Finally, a car rolled slowly down the street and pulled between two buildings across the street from Lyvano. I watched as several people walked to the restaurant from those buildings and then drove my car to the buildings as well. There was no parking there unless you wanted to park in someone’s driveway. I went back to the grocery parking lot, parked and got out. As we walked to the restaurant I heard the rushing of water and noticed there was a roaring river or stream on the backside of the restaurant where tables with umbrellas were set up. How beautiful this setting would be on a clear night! Tonight was a Halloween night, misty, windy and spooky. We entered the tiny restaurant decorated as a Paris bistro, including a twisted tree vine intertwined with soft white twinkle lights on the ceiling.

Inside Lyvano

After the waiter helped us interpret the menu we were delighted to eat one the best meals I have ever eaten.

Filet et legumes

After that we had to try the desert.

Le dessert

We enjoyed talking with the waiter, and talking to Elizabeth, the twenty something chef, who is also the owner of this superb restaurant. Completely satisfied we ventured out into the night to make our way down the twisted country roads between forests and cornfields. Following my girl-map markers we found Le Pleasant again and took the staircase to our warm comfy beds. In the morning we were again greeted by Bertin and Micheal at breakfast, served in their lovely restaurant on the first floor of the hotel.

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

Breakfast at its Best!

The food was delicious, but it was time to say goodbye for this year to our good friends in Sutton. We travel north to Quebec City on some roads with fields marked with Celtic rock mounds!

The Road to Quebec City!

For details about Le Pleasant Hotel, 1 rue Pleasant, Sutton, Quebec, Canada see: http://www.lepleasant.com

For the best shopping in Sutton see: Ou Couer des Soisons, 4 rue Maple, Sutton, Canada

For an incredible meal see Lyvano Restaurant, 4 rue Principale, Freilighsburg,Canada and Le Cafetier is the best cafe in Sutton, found on the main street, Sutton, Canada.

Off to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley

Manoir Hovey

Winding down the secluded entrance road surrounded by thirty-five acres of deep woods of pine and birch, we are headed to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley, Canada. It is a perfect cool crisp bright autumn day. The distinctive colored leaves gently float to the ground. Manoir Hovey, a five star inn was featured in the book Rule Against Murder, by Louise Penny and has become one of our favorite inns.

The Gardens at Manoir Hovey

Our Balcony at Manoir Hovey

The Flowers

The Manoir is secluded on Lake Massawippi and features a main lodge nestled in a beautiful garden setting and unique cabins suites along the water. On our first trip we stayed in the lodge, in a beautiful corner room complete with a fireplace and overlooking the gardens, but on other trips we have stayed in the Le Cartier Cabin suite closest to the water.

The Fireplace in our Room

Our Corner Room

Manoir Hovey Le Cartier Cabin

Le Cartier Cabin

Our Cabin at Manoir Hovey

The Fireplace in the Cabin Le Cartier

The Road to the Cabins

It was beautiful to wake up to the sun shimmering on the water, the sound of geese flying overhead and the whir of outboard motors. We could sit on the dock and drink our morning coffee before walking up to the lodge for a brunch breakfast.

Our Dock

The restaurant, Le Hatley, is first class, serving excellent food, where you can choose the garden setting or a place by the huge fireplace crackling in the dining room. Afterwards, the library feels warm and inviting as you curl up to read the morning paper in front of the large stone fireplace. Downstairs is a bar and another fireplace setting where the guests can meet and mingle. It is so inviting in the evenings. The bar is like sitting in a cozy cabin in the woods.

The Pub at Manoir Hovey

This is the place for relaxation and complete indulgence at any time of year. Our favorite time is Fall.

To learn more about Manoir Hovey in North Hatley see: http://www.manoirhovey.com

On the Road to Quebec

The Countryside in Quebec Canada

Autumn is right around the corner. That would be a long corner here in the South. Today it is 85 degrees outside. Eventually, the leaves on the trees will turn to flaming red, brilliant orange and deep green. They will last for two or three days and then drop off. I am ready for autumn now. A long beautiful autumn with brilliant colored trees, cool crisp days and evenings by the fireplace with mugs of apple cider. My thoughts turn to Quebec. Autumn comes early in this paradise of color. Their Thanksgiving festivals are in early October. Leave the holiday to the end of October and there is a good chance for snow on your pumpkin.

The Colors of Quebec

We flew into Montreal the first time we went to Canada, but now we fly to Burlington, Vermont and rent a car in the States and drive into Canada. The roads in Canada are easy to navigate. They are double lane with a median dividing them, small roads in the country with little to no traffic or gravel roads with a six foot drop on each side of it, an eye opener. The stop signs and street signs are also several feet higher than in the States so they can still be seen when the snow piles up beneath them. There is abundant scenery. Let’s start in Montreal. We visited the Montreal Botanical Gardens and loved the Japanese Garden.

The Japanese Garden in the Montreal Botanical Gardens

Canadians deck out the town for Fall and there are beautiful foliage arrangements and pumpkins everywhere. If you look up ghostly exhibits await you.

Fall Window Boxes

Window Displays are Everywhere

When I was looking over my pictures for Quebec it dawned on me that I first went to the region in 2008 to meet the author, Louise Penny, for a book review and signing. When I think about it many of my planned excursions have been based on what I have read about the area in a book. I don’t know why I did not realize that before now.

Since that first meeting with Louise Penny, we have made several trips to Quebec, Canada, but always in the Fall. Louise Penny writes a mystery series about Chief Inspector Armand Gamache and a fictitious tiny village in Quebec, Canada, Three Pines. Louise’s latest book, How the Light Gets In , is #1 in Mysteries on the New York Times Bestseller List. I have read all her books (start at the beginning) but I did not want to put this book down. This is her ninth book and they all have been a delight to read. You will fall in love with all the characters and follow them along, in their ups and downs, throughout the series. Here are some pictures from the first book review I attended meeting Louise Penny in Knowlton, Quebec, Canada at Lake Brome Books, a tiny cozy shop nestled in a cluster of wooden buildings along the waterfront. In the bookshop you will discover a walkway to a small bistro with the best pumpkin pie I have ever eaten!

Lake Brome Books

Louise Penny

Knowlton, Quebec Canada

We visited the small village of Sutton, which is also a back drop for Three Pines village Louise writes into her mysteries. On an early Sunday morning we were treated to fiddle playing and the singing of old Quebec tunes in a small bistro on Principale St while we munched on homemade delights. There is also a market that sells homemade breads, local meats, cheeses and compotes that was busy serving up fresh turkeys and trimmings, and pies for the locals to take home and prepare for their Thanksgiving. The entire village had a festive feeling!

Town Hall Sutton, Canada

The Sutton Shoppes

It is such a joy to explore these tiny hamlets in the Eastern Provence of Canada!

To learn more about Louise Penny visit http://www.louisepenny.com

Practice your French, we go next to North Hatley, Quebec Canada, a must do Fall pilgrimage!

Way Up the Hill and to the Left

The Walls of Orvieto

It is early morning; sunny, warm, windless with bright blue skies and today we are leaving Cinque Terre. We snake single file down the hill, and flow through the tunnel hearing only the sound of “clickety-clack” as the suitcases bump over the rough pavement to the train station. We begin our four train adventure to La Spezia, Pisa, Florence, and then to Orvieto in Umbria. In Florence when we switch trains who do we meet? The Bag Handler approaches SB, takes one look at me and quickly turns away. (See blog “On to Florence”) At one of the many small town stops on our last leg to Orvieto an odd looking man boards. Short haired, clean shaven wearing floor length grey robe tied with a rope belt, he is covered in pale grey. Grey ash colored paste covers his hair, face and even his eyelashes, his hands. He walks slowly up and down the train aisle, as if wanting us all to recognize his presence. No one says a word, no words form on his lips. As he is ignored I am thinking, is this man a priest? Is he in some sort of penance? Can I take a picture of him, I think? No, that would not be right. What if he was a wayward priest? I want to ask someone who he is, but the travelers keep their noses in their papers or books or look away. At the next stop he departs the train. My eyes follow him into the crowd.

Arrival at Train Station in Orvieto

By late afternoon we step off the train and look up and up. Orvieto’s old town walls loom above us, touching nothing but blue sky and fluffy sheep clouds. It is warm and balmy and I begin to peel off my layers of clothes. I don my sunglasses as we hail a cab to take us to the height of the old village, to B&B Michelangeli, the apartment we have rented in Orvieto. Winding outside the steep fortified walls we climb higher and higher, it is rather like a top spinning and we are in the mist of it. Once inside the wall we criss-cross through small cobbled lanes and arrive at a dead end street.

The Lanes of Orvieto

Via Saracinelli, Michealangeli B&B, Orvieto

Via Saracinelli, Michelangeli B&B, Orvieto

The Door and Walls of Michelangeli B&B

This street is far from dead. On the old building walls are intricate wooden wall covering designs. They are beautiful. Why are they here? Who does all this woodworking? Another Pinocchio and Geppetto?

Geppetto’s At it Again!

We ring the bell and a tall impeccably groomed Italian man greets us. He explains Francesca, his wife, is getting the children ready for the biggest festival of the year in Orvieto, and will greet us later. There is excitement in his voice as he tells us we do not want to miss the evening parade. He leads us next door, opening an eight foot high double wooden door to our apartment, right next to his home. We are so pleasantly surprised when we are given the grand tour of the apartment we will be staying in for five days. It is huge, but cozy. It is like a country cottage, only in Italy! It is lovingly cared for.

Michelangeli B&B, Orvieto, italy

The Dining Room at Michelangeli B&B

The Kitchen at Michelangeli B&B

The Spiral Stairway to Bedroom 1 at Michealangeli B&B

The Spiral Stairway to Bedroom 1 at Michelangeli B&B

The Main Bedroom of Michelangeli B&B

Looking Down from the Bedroom Loft at Michealangeli B&B

Looking Down from the Bedroom Loft at Michelangeli B&B

We remark about the beautiful wooden furniture and he explains his family has been the furniture and cabinet makers in Orvieto for centuries and all the furniture in the apartment is hand made by them in a shop right down the street. That explains the wood carvings outside the buildings, signs of the trade. We feel so fortunate to have picked this location and apartment, it is perfect. We hurriedly unload our belongings and following his instructions scurry out to the parade route.

The Streets of Orvieto

If you would like more information on Michelangeli B&B please contact:

Francesca at http://www.bbmichelangeli.com.

Via Saracinelli 20, Orvieto, Italy, Tel: 0763-393862

Are We There Yet?

Our Patio View of Manarola

Manarola

Off to Cinque Terre and let me tell you I was not excited about the train trip there, but couldn’t wait to see it! Cinque Terre consists of five towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare) along the Ligurian Sea coast connected by train, boat or a walking path. The train run from Florence to Pisa to La Spezia to Manarola was uneventful, thank God, just a lot of getting off and getting on a different train. We arrived in Manarola by late afternoon to a beautiful bright breezy day. When you get off the train in Manarola you walk through a long long tunnel to reach the little piazza circle mid town.

Steps to Middle Piazza, Manarola

The Piazza in the Middle of Manarola

A good looking young man was there from La Toretta to meet us and help us with the luggage. We started up a steep hill, curve, another hill, curve, another hill. I am huffing and puffing and I’m not even pulling luggage. Finally a small church at the top of the hill sits in another small piazza and we go down a few steps, up a few more steps walking through a maze of pastel colored palazzos.

The Hilltop Church in Manarola

A View from the Hilltop at Manarola

We end up on a terrace overlooking the sea and vineyards and are greeted by our hosts who offer champagne and a plate of selected finger food. We sit and take in the view. After a tour of the spa, meeting room, and hot tub we take a hike up more steps and twisty turns to the path to our apartment along the highest ridge of Manarola.

My Favorite Cottage in Manarola

Our Apartment at La Toretta

The Kitchen at La Toretta

Looking Out to the Patio at La Toretta

The Bedroom at La Toretta

What a place! A very large ultra modern apartment awaits us with a birds eye view of the town, sea, and vineyard. Did I mention the blue grey octopus mural above the couch and bed? Unbelievable! We sit on the patio and watch the world go by and the little old couple working (well she picks basil from the patch and he sits and watches her) in the garden below us, before heading to Billie’s, a favorite local restaurant that sits just below our path to the apartment, as we look out over the patio.

The Walk to our Apartment at La Toretta

Our Table at Billy’s

The weather has turned cooler and very gale like. The flags at Billies are flapping in the wind as we carefully pick our way down the stone steps to the lower terrace. I hold on to the wrought iron railing as I carefully step by step by step by step move down to our table located in the corner of the terrace. At home this stairway would be a lawyers dream come true, here it is a way of life unnoticed. The outdoor space is packed with guests as the wind continues to build. After we order, I watch as the waiters, who have to go up and down that staircase a bazillion times taking orders and carrying food, sometimes in the middle of the steep stairway, do a limbo move under the railing, jumping unto the terrace to the side. What? I keep watching and yes that is the way to the terrace to the left. As the guests leave from that terrace they too shimmy up and under the railing to the stairs. I surmise that is the terrace for the young and lithe. Showoffs, ha. We enjoy our meal of a local pasta dish that we had to eat rather quickly because it is getting cooler and cooler and the wind on the hillside has reached gale status. Now it is raining on my food, I’m up and up those stairs in a flash. Back to my warm octopus room. Tomorrow is another day!

Downtown Manarola

The Sea at Manarola

Manarola

For more info about La Toretta, 5 Terre National Park, Manarola, Italy. see TripAdvisor.
For more info about Trattoria dal Billy, Via Rollandi 122, Mararola, Italy see TripAdvisor.

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Florence

From the Rooftop of Antica Torre

Florence is my favorite city in Italy, bar none. Due to my harried arrival I was ready for a glass of wine on the roof top garden of Antica Torre. You can see the entire city from here and it is spectacular! There is an indoor garden and an outdoor garden with plenty of snacks and drinks and a friendly staff. After our welcome wine we ventured out into the nearby street to the Trattoria Carrozze.

Trattoria Carrozze

It was still raining cats and dogs so we followed suit at the restaurant and placed our umbrella at the door with the other odd forty of them. That is what you do with your umbrella in Italy, leave them at the door in the stands for them. I always leave with my own umbrella too. Miracles do happen. The penguin-dressed waiter led us to a table by the window of the rustic feeling establishment to dine on pasta and more wine. It was just like an old 40’s black and white movie, watching people hurry by on the cobblestone walkways, umbrellas open in the light hazy drizzle. After our dinner we strolled through the narrow passageways to Piazza della Signoria and the Rivoire Cafe.

Piazza della Signoria

This is my favorite cafe in THE WORLD for hot chocolate. Thick, thick, thick and chocolaty, chocolaty, chocolaty, with another great spot for people watching! If it hadn’t been drizzling we would have taken a table right on the Piazza. Inside the cafe people were buzzing like bees! While we waited for someone to leave, so we could take their seats, I eyed the counters of desserts. It all looked so yummy! Following another stroll to the Duomo we returned to the hotel to settle in for the night. I needed plenty of rest for the four train excursion the next day to the Cinque Terre!

The Duomo

A Classic Italian Room at Antica Torre

The Italian Look

Rooftop View

For information on Antica Torre see: http://www.tornabuoni1.com

For information on Trattoria Carrozze see TripAdvisor.

For information on Rivoire see TripAdvisor.

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