Travel, Gardens, Food, Photography, Books, Shoes

Posts from the ‘Travel Prep’ category

Paris for Christmas

In a few days we are headed off to the City of Lights for the Christmas holidays. At this time of year traveling can be a real headache.  Will the weather be frightful?  Will the lines be as long as waiting for Santa? It is getting harder to get from Point A to Point B without going to A1, A2, and A3 in between!  Ugh! Which airport do I have to take my shoes off at?  Which airport do I have to take my umbrella out of my carry-on? Which airport does not allow any lap top cords or electronics unless they are all bundled together in a plastic bag?  It’s enough to give you a gigantic headache!  But, I found one airline, WestJet, a Canadian airline, that treats it’s guests at least once a year to a great time!  Be sure to watch the video to put a smile on your face!

Oh Canada!!

Folk Music

Street Folk Music

Basse-Ville

Basse-Ville

The Beauty in the Walls

The Beauty in the Walls

Today we are walking to Haute-Ville, the next layer of Quebec City.  We leche-vitrine (window shop) along the Petit-Champlain passing lovely art galleries and shops, when I am compelled to stop at Pot en Ciel, a delightfully and artistically decorated kitchen ware shop that always seems to have the latest in cuisine accessories, cooking and table ware.   Afterwards, mingling with the tourists from the cruise ships that dock and depart here, we take the funicular to the promenade walkway that is in the front of the famous and majestic Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, due in most part  because of how it dominates the skyline of Quebec City. Designed by American architect, Bruce Price, it was one of a series of “chateau” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway during the late 19th century.  The hotel was named for Louis de Baude, count of Frontenac, who was governor of the colony of New France from 1672 to 1698, with a few years off in the middle.  In 1944 the Chateau became the action center of Quebec Conferences of WWII.  A tour of the Chateau with costumed tour guides gives you a glimpse into the rooms of  “The Who’s Who of Who Has Slept Here” (my term, don’t ask for that as the tour!).

A View from the Funicular

A View from the Funicular

The Cruise Ships

The Cruise Ships

The Frontenac Hotel

The Frontenac Hotel

The Promemade

The Promenade

The View From the Promenade

The View of the Frontenac and the Promenade

The sight is breathtaking.  Here artists and musicians reveal their talents as we walk the promenade gazing down at the cruise ships in Vieux-Port and up, up, up at the Frontenec Hotel.  It looks like a castle, but has always been a grand scale hotel. I am sad to say many tourists go no farther than the promenade and surrounding shops and restaurants.  Meandering through the streets we find shops, cafes, restaurants  and charming fall displays.

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

368

Quebec City Canada Cafe

Haute-Ville Streets

Haute-Ville Streets

363

Quebec City Canada Sculpture

Some make it the tiny rue du Tresor, a small alleyway lined with working artists.  For those who trek on, meandering the winding streets of Haute-Ville there are the Christmas shops, boutiques, plant landscapes and the Morrin Center awaiting you.

Plant Displays!

Plant Displays!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

The Morrin Center is one of my favorite stops.  I can’t wait to show you this years decorations and pictures from past years!  We’ll start there tomorrow! As we finish up the day we return to Vieux Quebec and one of the best restaurants in the quarter, the Lapin Saute, the rabbit restaurant.  I love the food, ambiance and the outdoor decorations of this restaurant.  It is truly what you would imagine a French bistro to be!

Le Lupin Saute

Le Lapin Saute

Outdoor Seating at Le Lepin

Outdoor Seating at Le Lapin (Notice the Rabbit Tables)

Le Lapin at Night

Le Lapin at Night

Inside Le Lepin

Inside Le Lapin

IMG_1334

The Menu

The Menu

The French Onion Soup

The French Onion Soup

I began my meal with the french onion soup studded with a thick white Canadian cheese followed by the rabbit (french) cassoulet. Absolutely yummy! I was so digging into the cassoulet I forgot to take a  picture!!!!  I’m headed back to the Germain-Dominion Hotel and after a mocha night cap I’m off to bed!  See you tomorrow at the Morrin Center!

For more information about Pot en Ciel, 27 Petit Champlain, Quebec, Canada view http://www.quartierpetitchamplain.com for a street map of all the shops and restaurants located there.

For information on the Chateau  Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrieres, view TripAdvisor.

For information on Le Lapin Saute, 52 Rue Du Petit-Champlain see TripAdvisor.

On the Road to Quebec

The Countryside in Quebec Canada

The Countryside in Quebec Canada

Autumn is right around the corner.  That would be a long corner here in the South. Today it is 85 degrees outside. Eventually, the leaves on the trees  will turn to flaming red, brilliant orange and deep green. They will last for two or three days and then drop off. I am ready for autumn now. A long beautiful autumn with brilliant colored trees, cool crisp days and evenings by the fireplace with mugs of apple cider. My thoughts turn to Quebec.  Autumn comes early in this paradise of color.  Their Thanksgiving festivals are in early October.  Leave the holiday to the end of October and there is a good chance for snow on your pumpkin.

The Colors of Quebec

The Colors of Quebec

Sutton Canada Flower Art

We flew into Montreal the first time we went to Canada, but now we fly to Burlington, Vermont and rent a car in the States and drive into Canada. The roads in Canada are easy to navigate.  They are double lane with a median dividing them, small roads in the country with little to no traffic or gravel roads with a six foot drop on each side of it, an eye opener.  The stop signs and street signs are also several feet higher than in the States so they can still be seen when the snow piles up beneath them. There is abundant scenery. Let’s start in Montreal. We visited the Montreal Botanical Gardens and loved the Japanese Garden.

The Japanese Garden in the Montreal Botanical Gardens

The Japanese Garden in the Montreal Botanical Gardens

304

308Canadians deck out the town for Fall and there are beautiful foliage arrangements and pumpkins everywhere.  If you look up ghostly exhibits await you.

322

Fall Window Boxes, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Fall Window Boxes

Fall Window Boxes

Quebec City Canada Flower Display

Window Displays are Everywhere

Window Boxes

When I was looking over my pictures for Quebec it dawned on me that I first went to the region in 2008 to meet the author, Louise Penny, for a book review and signing. When I think about it many of my planned excursions have been based on what I have read about the area in a book.  I don’t know why I did not realize that before now.

Since that first meeting with Louise Penny, we have made several trips to Quebec, Canada, but always in the Fall. Louise Penny writes a mystery series about Chief Inspector Armand Gamache and a  fictitious tiny village in Quebec, Canada, Three Pines. Louise’s latest book, How the Light Gets In , is #1 in Mysteries on the New York Times Bestseller List.  I have read all her books (start at the beginning) but I did not want to put this book down.  This is her ninth book and they all have been a delight to read. You will fall in love with all the characters and follow them along, in their ups and downs, throughout the series. Here are some pictures from the first book review I attended meeting Louise Penny in Knowlton, Quebec, Canada at Lake Brome Books, a tiny cozy shop nestled in a cluster of wooden buildings along the waterfront. In the bookshop you will discover a walkway to a small bistro with the best pumpkin pie I have ever eaten!

Llake Brome Books

Lake Brome Books

267

Louise Penny

Louise Penny

Knowlton, Quebec Canada

Knowlton, Quebec Canada

We visited the small village of Sutton, which is also a back drop for Three Pines village Louise writes into her mysteries.  On an early Sunday morning we were treated to fiddle playing and the singing of old Quebec tunes in a small bistro on Principale St while we munched on homemade delights. There is also a market that sells homemade breads, local meats, cheeses and  compotes that was busy serving up fresh turkeys and trimmings, and pies for the locals to take home and prepare for their Thanksgiving.  The entire village had a festive feeling!

Town Hall Sutton, Canada

Town Hall Sutton, Canada

The Sutton Shoppes

The Sutton Shoppes

Sutton Canada Flower Art 4Sutton Canada Flower Art 7

It is such a joy to explore these tiny hamlets in the Eastern Provence of Canada!

To learn more about Louise Penny visit http://www.louisepenny.com

Practice your French, we go next to North Hatley, Quebec Canada, a must do Fall pilgrimage!

By the Sea, By the Sea, By the Beautiful Sea!

The Pirate Lookout and "Pillbox"

The Pirate Lookout and “Pillbox”

We are off today to the resort town of Monterosso al Mare, the only Cinque Terre town built on flat land, with two parts: The New Town (Fegina) to the left as you get off the train and the Old Town (Centro Storico) to the right.  A long pedestrian tunnel connects the old with the new.

The Promenade

The Promenade

We stroll the waterfront promenade and can see all five Cinque Terre towns along the coast. Looking up we see the sixteenth century pirate lookout tower and down below the Nazi “pill box”, a small low concrete bunker where gunners hid in World War II. Heading into the Old Town there are dozens of little shops, restaurants and skinny, winding streets to explore.

The Village Shops

The Village Shops

Outdoor Cafe in Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre, Italy

Outdoor Cafe in Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre, Italy

We come to a small jewelry store and a sign outside in the window attracts my attention. It shows a necklace created “step by step” while walking the Cinque Terre.

Step by Step Charms of Cinque Terre

Step by Step Charms of Cinque Terre

There is a shop in each Cinque Terre town offering a bronze or silver charm with the name of that village, to complete a necklace or bracelet. I go inside La Gazza Ladra and the kind woman explains the procedure to collect the charms to me. I purchase a charm that says Monterosso in this shop and receive the charm and a passport, so to speak, that shows where the charms are located in the other four Cinque Terre towns.

The Step by Step Passport

The Step by Step Passport

In every town I must go to that shop, purchase the bronze or silver charm, get the passport stamped and when I am down to the last town I pay one euro for the last charm.  You can “Step by Step” the towns in any order. The necklace is lovely when completed. The shop owner shows the intricate knotting she has done between the five charms and added a beautiful clasp.  I have a small problem though.  I have walked four villages already and leave Cinque Terre tomorrow.  Hmm….. What to do.  I do the only sensible thing really.  I look at SB, who shrugs and says why not? What a guy!!!  I buy the charm, my first charm in bronze, walk out with my charm passport and go have a coffee to determine how much time it will take us to go back to all four of the other Cinque Terre villages and find these shops. It will make a lovely momento of my time in Cinque Terre.

After our coffee we explore Monterosso. We walk to find the Church of St John the Baptist, called the black and white church, with white marble from Carrara ( the famous Leonardo Di Vinci Carrara marble) and dark green marble, which looks black, from Punte Mesco, above the village.  There is a lacy stone rose window above the entrance to the church. The church is beautiful inside and immaculate.

Saint John the Baptist Church

Saint John the Baptist Church

The Sanctuary of St John the Baptist

The Sanctuary of St John the Baptist

The Altar of St John the Baptist

The Altar of St John the Baptist

There is also another church right across the way from St John the Baptist, and it is the most outstanding and different church I have ever been in. It is called the Oratory of the Dead.

Outside the Oratory of the Dead

Outside the Oratory of the Dead

The Oratory of the Dead

The Oratory of the Dead

The Skeleton Motiff

The Skeleton Motif

Skull-and-Crossbones

Skull-and-Crossbones and Hourglass

The Black Jesus in the Oratory of the Dead

The Black Jesus in the Oratory of the Dead

During the Counter-Reformation, the Catholic Church created brotherhoods of good works, called confraternities, to compete with the rising influence of Martin Luther. This church building is the oratory of the black group, a group whose mission was to arrange funerals, and take care of widows and orphans of lost sailors. The confraternity dates from the 16th century and membership is passed from father to son.  It has a beautiful black and white haunted house decor with skeletons and crossbones, a black hand-carved paneled choir stall adorned in skeletons and skeletons among the cherub angels.

The Choir Stalls of the Black Oratory

The Choir Stalls of the Black Oratory

I have never seen anything like it. We explore another church up the hill which has ships hanging from the ceiling and a nautical themed sanctuary.   Enjoying the sunshine we walk back through the pedestrian tunnel to the promenade of the beach to New Town.

The Beach at Monterosso al Mare

The Beach at Monterosso al Mare

This beach front of the village is perfect. There are tiny outdoor cafes, a beach with sand and swimming framed with expensive looking neighborhood villas right up to the sandy shore line.

The Beach Neighborhood

The Beach Neighborhood

People are swimming in the sea, those brave souls, the rest of us are still donning our coats and scarves.  A new stone building reveals architectural additions that start on shore and flow to the sea.  At the end of the building is Il Gigante, a look alike rock formation actually made of reinforced concrete originally constructed to support a dance terrace.

Il Gigante

Il Gigante

DSCN0603
We walk back along the beach and eat at one of the outdoor cafes and finish up with gelato before we head back to the train station to make our stops at Vernazza and Corniglia for the charms. While in Corniglia I also decide to go back to Fanny’s Bazar and buy two fish dishes. I kept thinking I would like two small fish dishes and decided  I could stash them in my carry on so they wouldn’t get broken.

My Fish Dishes

My Fish Dishes

I buy the silver charm in Corniglia since it is my favorite Cinque Terre village. By late afternoon we are in Vernazza and I have gathered three of the needed charms. We see our Aussie friends at an outdoor cafe (A shout out to Fee, Wes and Kathy!) and enjoy their company over drinks before taking the train back to Manarola and our last evening in this magical beautiful town.

For more information about the Cinque Terre, Step-by-Step charms in Montorosso al Mare see: La Gazza Ladra di Alessandra Pampari, Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, Moneterosso al Mare, La Spezia, Italy        Phone:+39 0187 817068

Are We There Yet?

Our Patio View of Manarola

Our Patio View of Manarola

Manarola

Manarola

Manarola

Manarola

Off to Cinque Terre and let me tell you I was not excited about the train trip there, but couldn’t wait to see it!  Cinque Terre consists of five towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare) along the Ligurian Sea coast connected by train, boat or a walking path.  The train run from Florence to Pisa to La Spezia to Manarola was uneventful, thank God, just a lot of getting off and getting on a different train. We arrived in Manarola by late afternoon to a beautiful bright breezy day. When you get off the train in Manarola you walk through a long long tunnel to reach the little piazza circle mid town.

Steps to Middle Piazza, Manarola

Steps to Middle Piazza, Manarola

The Pizza in the Middle of Manarola

The Piazza in the Middle of Manarola

A good looking young man was there from La Toretta to meet us and help us with the luggage. We started up a steep hill, curve, another hill, curve, another hill.  I am huffing and puffing and I’m not even pulling luggage.  Finally a small church at the top of the hill sits in another small piazza and we go down a few steps, up a few more steps walking through a maze of pastel colored palazzos.

The Hilltop Church in Manarola

The Hilltop Church in Manarola

A View from the Hilltop at Manarola

A View from the Hilltop at Manarola

We end up on a terrace overlooking the sea and vineyards and are greeted by our hosts who offer champagne and a plate of selected finger food. We sit and take in the view.  After a tour of the spa, meeting room, and hot tub we take a hike up more steps and twisty turns to the path to our apartment along the highest ridge of Manarola.

My Favorite Cottage in Manarola

My Favorite Cottage in Manarola

Our Apartment at La Toretta

Our Apartment at La Toretta

The Kitchen at La Toretta

The Kitchen at La Toretta

Looking Out to the Patio at La Toretta

Looking Out to the Patio at La Toretta

The Bedroom at La Toretta

The Bedroom at La Toretta

What a place!  A very large ultra modern apartment awaits us with a birds eye view of the town, sea, and vineyard. Did I mention the blue grey octopus mural above the couch and bed?  Unbelievable! We sit on the patio and watch the world go by and the little old couple working (well she picks basil from the patch and he sits and watches her) in the garden below us, before heading to Billie’s, a favorite local restaurant that sits just below our path to the apartment, as we look out over the patio.

The walk to our apartment at La Toretta

The Walk to our Apartment at La Toretta

Our Table at Billy's

Our Table at Billy’s

The weather has turned cooler and very gale like.  The flags at Billies are flapping in the wind as we carefully pick our way down the stone steps to the lower terrace. I hold on to the wrought iron railing as I carefully step by step by step by step move down to our table located in the corner of the terrace. At home this stairway would be a lawyers dream come true, here it is a way of life unnoticed. The outdoor space is packed with guests as the wind continues to build. After we order, I watch as the waiters, who have to go up and down that staircase a bazillion times taking orders and carrying food, sometimes in the middle of the steep stairway, do a limbo move under the railing, jumping unto the terrace to the side.  What?  I keep watching and yes that is the way to the terrace to the left.  As the guests leave from that terrace they too shimmy up and under the railing to the stairs.  I surmise that is the terrace for the young and lithe.  Showoffs, ha.  We enjoy our meal of a local pasta dish that we had to eat rather quickly because it is getting cooler and cooler and the wind on the hillside has reached gale status.  Now it is raining on my food, I’m up and up those stairs in a flash.  Back to my warm octopus room.  Tomorrow is another day!

Downtown Manarola

Downtown Manarola

The Sea at Manarola

The Sea at Manarola

Manarola

Manarola

For more info about La Toretta, 5 Terre National Park, Manarola, Italy. see TripAdvisor.
For more info about Trattoria dal Billy, Via Rollandi 122, Mararola, Italy see TripAdvisor.

If you like my blog please tell your friends or “Like” me on Facebook, Twitter and About. Me at Cady Luck Leedy or The Travel Lady In Her Shoes.  Thanks!!!

Florence

From the Rooftop of Antica Torre

From the Rooftop of Antica Torre

Florence is my favorite city in Italy, bar none. Due to my harried arrival I was ready for a glass of wine on the roof top garden of Antica Torre.  You can see the entire city from here and it is spectacular! There is an indoor garden and an outdoor garden with plenty of snacks and drinks and a friendly staff. After our welcome wine we ventured out into the nearby street to the Trattoria Carrozze.

Trattoria Carrozze

Trattoria Carrozze

It was still raining cats and dogs so we followed suit at the restaurant and placed our umbrella at the door with the other odd forty of them.  That is what you do with your umbrella in Italy, leave them at the door in the stands for them.  I always leave with my own umbrella too.  Miracles do happen.  The penguin-dressed waiter led us to a table by the window of the rustic feeling establishment to dine on pasta and more wine.  It was just like an old 40’s black and white movie, watching people hurry by on the cobblestone walkways, umbrellas open in the light hazy drizzle.  After our dinner we strolled through the narrow passageways to Piazza della Signoria and the Rivoire Cafe.

Piazza della Signoria

Piazza della Signoria

This is my favorite cafe in THE WORLD for hot chocolate.  Thick, thick, thick and chocolaty, chocolaty, chocolaty, with another great spot for people watching! If it hadn’t been drizzling we would have taken a table right on the Piazza.  Inside the cafe people were buzzing like bees!  While we waited for someone to leave, so we could take their seats, I eyed the counters of desserts.  It all looked so yummy!  Following another stroll to the Duomo we returned to the hotel to settle in for the night.  I needed plenty of rest for the four train excursion the next day to the Cinque Terre!

The Duomo

The Duomo

A Classic Italian Room at Antica Torre

A Classic Italian Room at Antica Torre

The Italian Look

The Italian Look

Rooftop View

Rooftop View

Rooftop View

Rooftop View

Rooftop View

Rooftop View

For information on Antica Torre see: http://www.tornabuoni1.com

For information on Trattoria Carrozze see TripAdvisor.

For information on Rivoire see TripAdvisor.

If you like my blog please tell your friends or “LIKE”  me on Twitter or Facebook or About.Me!  Thanks

On To Florence!

Ok, my blog is going to start with a Pop Quiz.

I have not written to you in two weeks because:

a) I had such a good time in Italy, it has taken me two weeks to get back into the grove.

b) I know it is summer and you are all doing fun things, besides reading my blog, so I gave you a few weeks to catch up on all the doings.

c) I decided to clean out my garage to make room for a new Italian sports car.

d) All the above

So now that we have the Pop Quiz done lets move on to Florence!  I love Florence!  It still is my favorite city in Italy, but sad to say I only spent one night in this beautiful city this time because I had more on my plate.

Even the signs are romantic!

Even the Signs are Romantic!

Roof Top View of Florence

Roof Top View of Florence

Roof Top Duomo, Florence, Italy

Roof Top Duomo, Florence, Italy

First of all, we need to discuss the madness at the train stations these days. When I arrived and left Montepulciano I used the firm of Private Driver Services with Emanuele. Emanuele was prompt, curteous, and drove a spotless Mercedes station wagon. On my last day in Montepulciano he picked me up in Montepulciano, drove the 30-minute ride to Chiusi, carried by bags into the station, down the stairs, up the stairs and told me to wait at the proper train line.  What a guy!  This was nothing like the treatment I had in Rome.  In Rome a train attendant (I thought) came to me, picked up my bag and walked me to the proper train line for my departure and then said, “That will be 15 Euro.” I was a little taken back, I thought he was a kind train attendant helping me. (Like in Prague in an earlier posting) I gave him a twenty and asked for change and he looked me in the eye and said, “No,” and walked off.  Well, that taught me a lesson.

When the train arrived in Chiusi, a man, who was also boarding the train picked up my bags and hoisted them onto the train.  I had stewed over this because even though I had mailed home boxes of goodies and my books, I wasn’t sure I could heft the bags on the train in the few minutes allowed to heft. As it turned out this man, his wife and friends were also my booth mates on the train.  They were from Australia and we had the best time talking and we all hit it off immediatley.  We talked all the way to Florence and discovered we would all be heading to Cinque Terre in a few days and I hoped we would meet up there again.IMG_0164

As we approached Firenze Rifredi Train Station, it was raining Gucchi cats and dogs and there was no shelter where the train stopped so it was every man for himself in the pouring rain. I lumbered along with my two stacked bags and when I reached the station a young man hoisted my bags and took off down the stairs, up the stairs and around the bend of the train station with me struggling to keep up with him. When I got there he said, “Thirty euros.” What?????  Well, I looked him in the eye and said, “No.” He looked so surprised.  I gave him 5 euro.

I went to the Taxi Stand and to no surprise there were no taxis available. So I waited.  Then I crossed the street and waited at that taxi stand. Still no taxis.  I thought it odd there would be no taxis available, but then it was pouring so I thought everyone was wanting a taxi and there would be a wait. As I waited, I watched.  When a taxi did pull up my friend, the exorbitant bag carrier, would hail the taxi, talk to the driver and then place hand picked travelers into the taxi.  Every taxi that pulled in had the same routine.  The taxi did not stop at the taxi stand just looked for the bag carrier and took his travelers.  Hmmmm…..  Then an anxious looking visiting priest came up to me and asked if I had called for the taxi.  What?  He said I had to call for a taxi to come to this station and the bag handler had offered to do it for him for 50 euro.  What????   How much had I given him?

I was sure I would never get a taxi now.  So the priest, who had called for a taxi and I along with three more priests stood and watched as every cab that came was hailed to the “Bag Handler” as I now referred to him. I was nervous about being left alone at this station so asked the priest if I could ride with them if we ever got a cab. We stood for over an hour and watched this procession with the priest going up to each taxi and stating that he indeed had called for a taxi, but the taxi driver looked nervous and only followed the orders of the “Bag Handler.”  My phone had no signal here at all.  So I looked the Father in the eyes and said, “Father, we are going to have to be ruthless, they have a scam going on here, so follow my lead.”  When the next station wagon taxi pulled in I ran to it and flung open the door and threw in my smallest bag.  All the priests followed suit. The “Bag Handler” came to the taxi and I gave him a piece of my mind, something on the order of treating priests like this and so on.  I was furious. The taxi driver got out and opened the hatchback allowing the priests to load our bags all the while the “Bag Handler” read the taxi driver the riot act.  We had all squeezed into the taxi when another taxi pulled up.  Our taxi driver looked so relieved, but told us we had to get out and take the other taxi since he was not supposed to be taking travelers.  So one priest went to confirm this with the woman taxi driver, who was very helpful and said yes she had been called to pick us up. We then transferred all our luggage to her big Mercedes station wagon and after one last dirty look at the “Bag Handler” we were off.  I  told her we were going to different locations, and she said no problem.  We proceeded to City Center Florence chatting in Italian and English while she waved at all the other female taxi drivers and I tried to cool down.  She said Firenze Rifredi Train Station was not the main terminal so most of the taxis would be waiting at Florence Maria Novella Station, the station the priests had failed to get off at.  They will never make that mistake again!  I had no excuse my train was destined for Firenze Rifredi. As we passed Maria Novella we saw a long line of taxis there, the real taxis. We were told most taxis wanted the easy pick up fees of Maria Novella while the out-lying stations were manned by the “Bag Handler,” with him receiving a cut along with his mob of drivers.  Over three hours later I arrived at Antica Torre Di Via Tornbuoni Hotel, where my husband was frantically waiting for me, since I was late and had not answered his telephone calls.  I paid for the cab for myself and the priests and waved goodbye to them. I needed a drink! On to the Rooftop terrace of Antica Torrei Di Via Tornbuoni!

Rooftop View of Florence

Rooftop View of Florence from the Hotel

For a great car service while visiting Montepulciano I suggest: Tuscany Transfer Service (Emanuele) http://www.tuscanytransfer.it

Montepulciano

The Entrance to the Politian Palazzo

The Entrance to the Politian Palazzo

My apartment right above the Torture Museum Sign!

My Apartment from the Outside

The View from my Apartment

The View from my Apartment

The Casa Right Below my Window, Part of the Fortress Wall

The Casa Right Below my Window, Part of the Fortress Wall

Arrived!!!  Montepulciano is just as I remembered it, only now I am staying at the highest and oldest part of town between the XII century Fortress and the monastery of Santa Maria dei Servi, in the Politian Apartment.  The houses in this part of Via del Poliziano were built in the first half of 1800 on previous settlements belonging to the monastery.  This particular property was bought in 1889 by William Stuart, a British Royal Army Captain and his wife Anna Camp, who left Edinburgh in 1850 and came to live in Tuscany.  They renovated several small houses on the monastery property into a palazzo for the family and servants, including a beautiful garden. The great grandchildren of William Stuart still live in the palazzo and have divided the main building into four large apartments, preserving the original features of the building and adding modern comforts with up to date plumbing and electrical work.  The result is an extraordinary villa that makes you feel like you are living in a palace with a big shower and a fantastic kitchen, difficult things to find in the countryside of Italy.

My Bedroom Ceiling

My Bedroom Ceiling

My Bedroom Fireplace

My Bedroom Fireplace

The Sala and Kitchen

The Sala and Kitchen

The Sala Opennig to the Guardino

The Sala Opening to the Guardino

Looking Out the Sala

Looking Out the Sala

La campagna di Montepulciano

La Campagna di Montepulciano

My Giardino

My Giardino

The Guardino Outside My Door

The Guardino Outside My Door

For the decor Giacomo and Maria (sister/brother hosts) have restored the furniture, paintings, cabinets and armoires taken out of storage.  I asked Giacomo about the furnishings and paintings one day and he told me all the furnishings presently in the house were deemed “too good, we must save them,” by his mother and had been in storage for many many years.  When she passed, Giacomo decided the furnishings had stayed in storage long enough and they would be used. They even found his Great Great Grandmother’s trousseaux, tapestries, bedsteads and hand embroidered linens that had never been used. The tapestries and bedspreads were produced on a hand loom in Prato and some in the convents of Siena and Pienza.  All are made of silk, linen, cotton or hemp.  The embroideries were sown by “woman of the family,” mothers, aunts and grandmothers for the bride.  Every Saturday when Maria and Jane (Jane is Romanian and that is what she is called in English, I can’t begin to pronounce it in Romanian) clean and I do mean clean, Maria asks me to pick my sheets for the week from a selection of great great grandmother’s antique linens that are pure white, pressed and starched.  Unbelievable!!!!

Santa Lucia, Her Eyes are in the Cloth

Santa Lucia, Her Eyes are in the Cloth

The Master Bedroom

The Master Bedroom

The Valley Below Montepulciano

The Valley Below Montepulciano

Nearly all the paintings depict rural landscapes of Tuscany or seasides of Scotland. Except, my favorite painting in the large, large bedroom, that of Santa Lucia, painted in the late sixteenth century by Sienese artist, Domenico Beccafumi.  The ceramic vases in the villa came from local workshops (that continue to make fine pottery) and the garden restoration included re-using all the old bricks and tiles made in the late 1800’ s.  All the tiles on the floor in my apartment are original.  They are a rusty red in color, some are squared and some are brick shaped. Giacomo said the garden bricks are the same bricks as the house floor bricks, just with a glaze and fine polishing added for house-use bricks. The ceilings are fourteen feet tall and the windows are five feet tall, narrowed and shuttered.  To open the window there is a long rod/bolt affair from the top of the window to the bottom of the window. There are no screens and no bugs.  The window casings are marble. There are working fireplaces in every room!  I am sending a picture of the ceiling in my bedroom and will continue more tomorrow. Ciao!

If you are interested in the Politian Apartments, your home away from home contact:

http://www.politian.com

Via del Poliziano 34

Montepulciano Siena, Tuscany

Tel. +39 0578 716624

Last Night a Roma

Mother Mary Hasselblad of Santa Brigida Convent

Mother Mary Hasselblad of Santa Brigida Convent

How to do you study a nun’s habit without staring?  That is the question.  I am fascinated with the headpiece.  It looks like a halo held in place with a plus sign on top. Or is it an open air battle ready helmet, but made of hard cardboard like the priests collars? The headpiece the nuns wear is fashioned the same as the headpiece that Mother Mary Hasselblad wore. I saw Mother Hasselblad’s picture in the chapel. Their headpiece must determine their association with Santa Brigida.  In the daytime, outside the convent, the nuns walk in pairs carrying an umbrella between them to block the suns rays. In the Rome heat it would be as hot as a furnace under all that get up. I think your head would be sweating from that halo contraption.

The Market Hardware Stand

The Market Hardware Stand

Small Streets for Dining

Small Streets for Dining

Tonight we are walking to Piazza Navona to eat. There are so many people out and about on this Saturday night, but I wonder if it is always busy with tourists? The markets are still flourishing so I look at the hardware stand. I buy little glass jars to put the Italian spices in that I bought at another stall. I also buy a can of coffee to take to the apartment in Montepulciano.   The espresso coffee is four euro for a pound and the date of use is good until 2014.  I’m good to go. We could look for hours here there is so much to see, but we move on after our purchases. We get to the only street corner that so far has a stoplight, although stoplights here are only a suggestion.  Nobody stops. There is a police woman here tonight and I think that is odd.  The polizia wear big thick white gun holsters that cross over the body like you would wear a purse you didn’t want stolen. They don’t holster around the waist. Suddenly we hear sirens.  Lots of sirens.  Two motorcycle police whiz by like they are going to a fire.  The police woman jumps into action preventing anyone from crossing the street. The man in front of me says, “Holy Papa, Holy Papa.”  And sure enough here comes a black Mercedes and in the back seat is a smiling and waving Pope Francis.  Everyone on the street is waving and shouting.  It was quite the moment.  How lucky we were to be at that place at that time! After the Holy Papa passes by the police woman vanishes into the crowd as more motorcycles zip past.

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

In the Piazza Navona tonight there are artists of all kinds. Some painting absentmindedly, with their palettes of beautiful colors, while others watch. There is also a large crowd gathered around a man in a straight jacket and chains. It is like being at the circus. Young good looking men are selling rubber band rockets that shoot high into the sky, then flash bright colors, before falling back to the ground where they run to pick them up and do it all over again. In the background the huge fountain provides a backdrop for the photo takers. We sit at the oldest restaurant on the piazza dating 1836.  The food is so-so, but the people watching is fantastic. We return to the Convent again around midnight and I wonder what is in store for us tonight.

The Angel on the Corner

The Angel on the Corner

We are not disappointed.  We still hear people walking and talking as they return to their  homes, but around 3am there is a blood curdling scream of “aiutarmi, aiutarmi!” Help me!  Help me! I also hear the voices of people trying to quiet the man down.  My first thought is he is on drugs.  He gets quiet only to start up minutes later, “aiutarmi, aiutarmi!”  I then hear the doors of Santa Brigida open and the soft voice of a nun trying to comfort him. Everything gets quiet then and I finally fall asleep. In the morning after breakfast with the priests, the nun calls a cab for us to take to the train station. A very old man, speaking only Italian, pulls up and can hardly lift our suitcases to the trunk. We are off to Montepulciano!

Off To Roma

Rome

Rome

Off to Italy!  First stop Rome and Santa Brigida Church and convent where I will be staying while in Rome. Santa Brigida Church is dedicated to Saint Brigida of Sweden and the Swedish National Church (Lutheran) in Rome. The order of St Brigida is found in many countries and their convents serve as a rest, retreat and educational facility for  people of different faiths.   Birgitta Birgirsdotter was born in 1303 in Vadstena, Sweden into a well-to-do family and married Ulf Gudmarrson, a knight, at the age of 14.  They had eight children and one of the girls Karin, also became a saint, Saint Catherina of Sweden.  Ulf died following a pilgrimage taken by both Brigida and Ulf to Santiago di Compostela in Spain. Following Ulf’s death Brigida joined the Order of St Francis and started a community of both men and women in Vadstena.  The idea of men and women serving and working together in the church was unheard of.  In 1350 she and her daughter traveled to Rome, a strenuous trip during the plague, to seek permission for an official order of Bridgettine Sisters and stayed in the Palatium Magnum, the grand palace. Here she remained and served the poor until her death nineteen years later while waiting for permission to start the order, which was granted in 1370, after her death. St Brigida is also know for her visions that started as a child. Some believe she was epileptic, though I am skeptical of this idea.  To survive in the 1300’ s, have eight living children and live well into middle age, in addition to having epilepsy would be a miracle itself.  She wrote down her visions in her book of revelations, especially of the Nativity of Jesus which influenced the scene to be painted as art. In another vision, she was given a prayer later known as the Fifteen “O’s” because in the original Latin verse each prayer started with the letter “O”.  This prayer honored the wounds of Christ and were prayed over the course of one year. This prayer was later recited throughout Europe.  She also wrote many letters to the Pope, who lived in Avignon, France, encouraging him to bring the Papacy back to Rome.  He did.  Under Catherina and later her granddaughter, Casa di Santa Brigida in Rome served as a pilgrimage stop in Campo di Fiori (Field of Flowers) for Swedes coming to Rome on pilgrimage and then as a refuge for Swedish Catholics fleeing the Reformation in Sweden. The convent in Rome changed hands among many different orders of nuns over the years, including the Sisters in Santa Maria in Trastevere, then to the Congregation of the Holy Cross, a French congregation that restored the rooms of St Brigida and her daughter St Catherina.  Next the convent was given to the Polish branch of the Carmelite Order until 1930 when it was restored to the Brigidine Order and Mother Mary Hasselblad.  Mother M. Hasselblad was a Swedish girl who immigrated to the United States for work to help support her family in the early 1900’ s.  She converted to Catholicism, became a nun, and was sent to Casa di Santa Brigida and worked relentlessly to restore the Brigidine Order in Rome.  Later she returned to Sweden and opened a convent in Vadstena  with a group of Brigidine sisters who were now thriving in Rome under her leadership.  It was the first Catholic Order to be restored to the Lutheran country in 400 years. Later the order would expand into Mexico and India, where many of the nuns living at Casa di Santa Brigida are from.  The relics of St Brigida and St Catherina are here in the church. The rest of St Brigida is buried in Sweden at the convent of Vadstena.
Italy Sep _ Oct 2009 832
Italy Sep _ Oct 2009 683I have never stayed in a convent before or a hotel operated by nuns. This will be a new experience and the location is fantastic. On our previous trip to Rome we stayed in a newly remodeled villa near the US Embassy that had been converted into lovely big rooms with posh furnishings and marble fixtures. It was a bit further out from the major sites and the Vatican. Our room was situated on the top floor with a great view but also up four flights of stairs.  Believe me when I say at the end of the day and after walking miles, I did not look forward to the stairs. Santa Brigida has an elevator, a treasure in any hotel in Europe. The rooms will be smaller, and with no TV. Since I don’t go on vacation to watch TV this is perfect for me. The description given by guests is, “the casa is spotless, a safe refuge in the heart of Rome and the nuns very friendly and helpful to everyone.”  Located in the Farnese Piazza, near Campo di Fiori, it will be close to restaurants, shopping and the sites.  I want to do two things in Rome, besides dwelling in Casa St Brigida.  One, is to walk and explore the Trastevere neighborhood.  This neighborhood is what most Americans think of when they think of Italy.  The walk includes twisting cobblestone streets, local cafes, gift boutiques, and wine, cheese and coffee shops. I’m sure there will be a gelato stop or two. People watching should be ideal. The second item to do is Rick Steves, Heart of Rome Walk.  This walk starts in Campo di Fiori and ambles through narrow lanes to the most colorful neighborhoods of fountains, piazzas and shopping, ending at the Spanish Steps.  This walk passes by the Pantheon, the Parliament, and the Trevi Fountain but since I have seen these sights before I will be focusing on the walk and the people.  I want to get a glimpse of the lifestyle and stroll among the rich and Roman before I move on to Montepulciano and Il Sasso, the Italian Language school.

Next a post from Italy!

THE SPECTACLED BEAN

Tales, Thoughts + Tribulations of a Free Spirit in Suburbia

Walking Away

Travels on foot

Teacher nickname: The Three Hairs

Minding my mind, one thought at a time.

Tra Italia e Finlandia

Un lungo racconto fotografico.

seanbreslin.jp

Photography, hiking, walking, and cycling across central Japan — from quiet mountain paths to everyday life around Nagoya.

Lost in Translation

Looking for meanings in words, images and sounds

Journeys with Johnbo

Reflections on places traveled and photos taken.

M/VGratitude

Cruising with the Thyrre Family

Caroline's Travel Adventure Blog

Where my Travels and my Blog merge together.

Just Me, Nobody Special

The mental meandering that cross my keyboard

Jennifer's Journal

Website & Blog of J. Kelland Perry, Author

Slow Shutter Speed

A photographic journey.

Ann Mackay: Inspired by Nature

Photography celebrating flowers, plants, and the natural world

Still Restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Fine for Friday

The Corner Garden

Picture This

Photography, Travel and Retirement

World Traveller 73

Upgrade Your Travels. First Class Luxury Travel from all parts of the Globe. Business Class Airline, Lounge and Hotel Reviews, Stories and Adventures

Rachel Meets China

A China travel and lifestyle blog