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The Most European City in North America!

Fountain in Vieux Quebec

Fountain in Vieux Quebec near Hotel Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

Driving the back roads to Quebec City, I am on the lookout for the signs warning of the snow mobile crossings. The paths zig-zag along the highway and at intervals swoop across the road.  I daydream about going to grandma’s for Thanksgiving in a snowmobile.  The trees would zip by, the air is filled with the scent of pine and wood smoke, and the wind puts roses on my cheeks! I’d get to grandma’s ready to sit by the fire with the aroma of the Thanksgiving meal surrounding me!   Heaven! I get that comfortable and at home feeling when I go to my favorite hotel in Quebec City, the Hotel Le Germain-Dominion in the old town of Quebec City. The hotel is easy to find, has an attendant parking lot that is located behind the hotel and is in a perfect location for exploring Quebec City. The hotel itself is in a section of bank buildings.  With the first bonjour you are in for a very special stay.

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

I’m not talking Bank of America here, I mean when banks were banks with grand entry ways, fresco ceilings and huge draped crystal chandeliers. It looks more like a ballroom.  THAT bank is still here on the corner. Can you imagine? Just walking in you would hope for a line to wait in, so you could enjoy the surroundings!   It takes up the entire block and one section on the opposite end corner has been converted into Le Germain-Dominion Hotel.  When one walks into the lobby of the hotel, it is a small part of a larger room.

Inside the Lobby le Germaine-Dominion Hotel

Inside the Lobby Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

IMG_1546A room with a huge fireplace and comfy squashy sofas and chairs surrounding the fireplace.  In the center of the room is an extensive coffee station with a massive brewer to make cafes, au laits, mochas, and more, to serve in china cups and bowls.  You know already how I like the bowls (bols) of au lait!

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

There are also large tables, I’m talking wide, wide, wide dining room size tables and chairs to sit and spread your favorite newspaper out before you as you eat a healthy delicious breakfast in the morning. Or you can just relax and have coffee, tea, wine or liqueur at any time of day. In the mornings I love to come down here and see everyone spread out at the tables.  Eating like this also makes it easy to join in conversation with other guests as we sit, eat and enjoy our spread out newspapers.  I love the Globe and Mail Newspaper!  The paper is thin, shiny and in color, with the best articles ever on what is happening in Quebec.  I can really enjoy the morning breakfasts.  No one seems rushed, although there is an additional section where the business men tend to gather for early or late meetings. In the evenings the guests linger by the fireplace drinking coffee or wine and discussing their day, politics, where they are from or where they are going.  Great conversations, and just as comfortable and hospitable as being at grandma’s for the holiday. Taking the elevator to the rooms,  stepping off the elevator you enter a bank vault door (an original) which tells you which section of the hotel you are in.

The room at Le Germain- Dominion Boutique Hotel

The Room at Le Germain-Dominion Boutique Hotel

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The rooms are very large, modern, boutique style with HUGE walk in, glassed, rain showers that offer every amenity possible.

The Glassed Rain Shower

The Glassed Rain Shower

Returning downstairs, after my bol de au lait, I am out the door to walk the 17th Century neighborhoods of Vieux Quebec /Old Town Quebec City.

The Restaurants on my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A Restaurant along my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenec Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenac Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

The Funiculer

The Funicular to Upper Quebec City

Shops in Vieux Quebec

Shops in Vieux Quebec

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Rue du Petit-Champlain

Rue du Petit-Champlain

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

Place Royale

Place Royale

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Place Royale Square

Place Royale Square

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Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica

Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica as Night Falls

As night begins to fall, our destination is the La Piazzetta, on the corner of rue Saint-Paul, right across from the hotel. The restaurant offers a tiny cozy atmosphere and friendly knowledgeable staff helping us with our french, and serving home made pizzas with farm fresh ingredients.  The pizzas are so large the pizza tin in perched on a side extension of the table, so it looks like it is floating in the air.  We started off with an appetizer of Canadian cheese and warm fruit and an assortment of bread and sticks. The cafe was a buzz of guests enjoying their meals.

La Piazzetta

La Piazzetta

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

IMG_1341Afterwards we return to the hotel for a good night’s rest and look forward for our day tomorrow in Basse-Ville, the lower town of Quebec City. See you there!

For more information about Le Hotel Germain-Dominion see: http://www.germaindominion.com, 126 rue Saint-Pierre, Quebec City, Canada

La Piazzetta is located at 63 rue Saint-Paul, Vieux-Port, Quebec Canada

Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica, 16 rue Buade, is free and open to the public.  There are also tours of the crypt available.  See: http://www.patrimoine-religieux.com

Sutton Re-Visited

Le Pleasant Hotel/B&B

Le Pleasant Hotel/B&B

This morning we are up and at ‘em very early to make our way into Canada and our second stop after the French-Canadian hunk, who checked our passports and asked us a bazillion questions, is one of my favorite villages, Sutton. This year we are staying at Le Pleasant, the village’s turn of the century grand home of the local doctor turned restaurant, hotel/bed and breakfast.  We were greeted warmly by Micheal and shown to our bright front room-second floor guest suite in modern black and grey decor.

Our room at Le Pleasant

Our Room at Le Pleasant

IMG_1269The entire home was lovingly restored by Bertin and Michael who moved from Montreal to Sutton to start their bed & breakfast business. The hotel is centrally located in the village, which is easily walkable in fifteen minutes. After settling in we headed over toLe Cafetier, the local cafe for my coffee fix.

Le Cafetier

Le Cafetier

A Bowl of Cafe au Lait

A Bowl of Cafe au Lait

This is cafe au lait that I can drink from a bowl here. The Canadians have got coffee right. We ordered sandwiches and enjoyed the ambiance of the small French village.

Le Sandwich

Le Sandwich

Our next stop was Au Couer des Saisons, a beautifully decorated shop for all seasons owned by Elaine.  She is the owner of the kitchenware and gift shop which includes being the local florist, and jeweler.

Ou Couer des Soisons

Ou Couer des Soisons

We spent a lively time translating, talking and laughing with Elaine (I hope I am spelling her name correctly) while discovering the credit card safe wallets, new kitchen gadgets and every soap and fragrance! This is what is so magical about a locally owned shop and small village, you get to know the locals and feel part of the neighborhood.  That afternoon Micheal suggested a restaurant in nearby Frelighsburg, since their restaurant is closed on Monday evenings. He made the reservation and printed out a map for us.  Traveling in the country, at night, can be a challenge for the map impaired like I am.  My car had a GPS system that did not know where I was either!  So early evening, while it was still light, we set off for Frelighsburg and the Lyvano Restaurant. Now, I want you to know it is VERY DARK in the country here.  There are no country light posts and the homes are few and far between. However, they have the most amazing guard rails where needed. Believe me when I say they glow in the dark!  They glow in the dark BRIGHTLY and can be seen only when your headlights shine on them. I couldn’t figure out how they worked.  Were they actually small lights?  Reflective tape?  I slowed down and pulled over to take a closer look.  Reflective tape!!!!!!  It is truly amazing. This stuff should be slapped on your child at night!  I kept thinking how very dark it was with no lights. Is this the dirt road where I turn left? It crossed my mind, “Is this where flying saucers land and abduct you”?  Just as I was getting a little nervous I would see the reflectors. “Hmm…… This would make an excellent landing area for those space ships and here is the way!”  I pointed out markers to help me remember where to make critical turns on the way home when it would be REALLY DARK!  Turn left at that thingy that looks like a white cross swooping in the woods, turn right at the thing on the fence that looks like a scarecrow, turn left at that sweet woman’ s house (that I know must live in that one house) that has it’s porch light on.  We made it into Frelighsburg as the mist and light rain set in.  Now where was the parking lot?  I didn’t see one and there was no parking in front of the restaurant with the “Ouvre” flag blowing in the breeze.  Hmm.  I pulled into a tiny shopping area parking lot to a few blocks away to sleuth. I waited.  Surely, there would be others going in the restaurant?  I had time to wait. Finally, a car rolled slowly down the street and pulled between two buildings across the street from Lyvano. I watched as several people walked to the restaurant from those buildings and then drove my car to the buildings as well.  There was no parking there unless you wanted to park in someone’s driveway.  I went back to the grocery parking lot, parked and got out.  As we walked to the restaurant I heard the rushing of water and noticed there was a roaring river or stream on the backside of the restaurant where tables with umbrellas were set up.  How beautiful this setting would be on a clear night! Tonight was a Halloween night, misty, windy and spooky.  We entered the tiny restaurant decorated as a Paris bistro, including a twisted tree vine intertwined with soft white twinkle lights on the ceiling.

Inside Lyvano

Inside Lyvano

After the waiter helped us interpret the menu we were delighted to eat one the best meals I have ever eaten.

Filet et legumes

Filet et legumes

After that we had to try the desert.

La dessert

Le dessert

We enjoyed talking with the waiter, and talking to Elizabeth, the twenty something chef, who is also the owner of this superb restaurant. Completely satisfied we ventured out into the night to make our way down the twisted country roads between forests and cornfields. Following my girl-map markers we found Le Pleasant again and took the staircase to our warm comfy beds. In the morning we were again greeted by Bertin and Micheal at breakfast, served in their lovely restaurant on the first floor of the hotel.

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

Breakfast at its Best!

Breakfast at its Best!

IMG_1273 The food was delicious, but it was time to say goodbye for this year to our good friends in Sutton. We travel north to Quebec City on some roads with fields marked with Celtic rock mounds!

The Road to Quebec City!

The Road to Quebec City!

For details about Le Pleasant Hotel, 1 rue Pleasant, Sutton, Quebec, Canada  see: http://www.lepleasant.com

For the best shopping in Sutton see: Ou Couer des Soisons, 4 rue Maple, Sutton, Canada

For an incredible meal see Lyvano Restaurant, 4 rue Principale, Freilighsburg,Canada and Le Cafetier is the best cafe in Sutton, found on the main street, Sutton, Canada.

Off to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley

Manoir Hovey

Manoir Hovey

Winding down the secluded entrance road surrounded by thirty-five acres of deep woods of pine and birch, we are headed to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley, Canada. It is a perfect cool crisp bright autumn day. The distinctive colored leaves gently float to the ground. Manoir Hovey, a five star inn was featured in the book Rule Against Murder, by Louise Penny and has become one of our favorite inns.

The Gardens at Manoir Hovey

The Gardens at Manoir Hovey

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Our Balcony at Manoir Hovey

Our Balcony at Manoir Hovey

The Flowers

The Flowers

The Manoir is secluded on Lake Massawippi and features a main lodge nestled in a beautiful garden setting and unique cabins suites along the water.   On our first trip we stayed in the lodge, in a beautiful corner room complete with a fireplace and overlooking the gardens, but on other trips we have stayed in the Le Cartier Cabin suite closest to the water.

The Fireplace in our Room

The Fireplace in our Room

Our Corner Room

Our Corner Room

Manoir Hovey Le Cartier Cottage

Manoir Hovey Le Cartier Cabin

Le Cartier Cabin

Le Cartier Cabin

Our Cabin at Manoir Hovey

Our Cabin at Manoir Hovey

Manor Hovey Cartier Cottage

The Fireplace in the Cabin Le Cartier

The Fireplace in the Cabin Le Cartier

Manor Hovey Cartier Cottage 16

The Road to the Cabins

The Road to the Cabins

It was beautiful to wake up to the sun shimmering on the water, the sound of geese flying overhead and the whir of outboard motors. We could sit on the dock and drink our morning coffee before walking up to the lodge for a brunch breakfast.

Lake at Manor Hovey

Our Dock

Our Dock

The restaurant, Le Hatley, is first class, serving excellent food, where you can choose the garden setting or a place by the huge fireplace crackling in the dining room. Afterwards, the library feels warm and inviting as you curl up to read the morning paper in front of the large stone fireplace. Downstairs is a bar and another fireplace setting where the guests can meet and mingle. It is so inviting in the evenings. The bar is like sitting in a cozy cabin in the woods.

The Pub at Manoir Hovey

The Pub at Manoir Hovey

This is the place for relaxation and complete indulgence at any time of year. Our favorite time is Fall.

To learn more about Manoir Hovey in North Hatley see: http://www.manoirhovey.com

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