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The National Trust: Chartwell, Home of Winston Churchill

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

To my surprise, one of the National Trust estates that I liked the best was Chartwell, the principle home of Winston Churchill.  I knew my husband would like it. I thought there would be several military rooms and manly stuff. I was pleasantly surprised at how “down to earth and homey” it was. I didn’t realize Winston Churchill liked to paint. There are beautiful water color paintings throughout the home, that he painted. The house commands a spectacular view across the Weald of Kent, the primary reason for it’s purchase, since the farmhouse “had no architectural merit.” The gardens and surrounding countryside were inspirational for Churchill’s paintings. The entire home has been preserved as it would have looked when Churchill owned the home, with original furniture, books, and some of the medals and honors that Churchill received. His wife, Clementine, left her mark in the gardens. The Golden Rose Garden, a gift from their children for their Golden Wedding Anniversary, is not to be missed. A rock garden feature caught Lady Churchill’s eye at the 1948 Chelsea Flower Show and the designer, Gavin Jones, gave it to her! There is a large kitchen garden which produced hampers of food for the Churchill’s London home or for 10 Downing Street, when they were away from Chartwell. The hampers of vegetables were sent by car every Monday and by train on Thursdays, to the cook, Mrs. Georgina Landemare. Churchill built the walls around the gardens himself (at ninety bricks per hour; (he timed himself)  and their pets Rufus I and Rufus II are buried in the gardens, just like we would do. There is a cottage/playhouse (called Marycot) in the garden, built for their youngest daughter, Mary. They seemed like down to earth people to me!

This is what I learned………. about Chartwell.

The site was built upon as early as the 16th century when the estate was called, “Well Street.”  There was a well at the north side of the house called, Chart Well. “Chart” is an Old English word for rough ground. Henry VIII is reputed to have stayed here when he was courting Anne Boleyn at nearby Hever Castle. In the 19th century it was a red-brick farmhouse of tile-hung gables and poky windows.

The Churchill’s bought the property in 1922, which consisted of the main farmhouse on eighty acres and three cottages. They immediately set out to renovate and update the home. I liked it because it was so light and airy with beautiful views from all the windows. The home eventually contained five reception rooms, nineteen bed and dressing rooms, eight bathrooms and a heated and floodlit swimming pool. There was also a water garden where he fed his fish and small lakes were created from dams, and were linked by steps descending from the farmhouse terraces. It was overall very tranquil. Churchill often commented, “A day away from Chartwell is a day wasted.”

In 1938, Churchill suffered big losses on Wall Street and put the estate up for sale. The industrialist, Sir Henry Strakosch, agreed to take over Churchill’s stock market shares for three years, and paid off all the debts. During WWII the home was mostly unused, due to it’s exposed position on the hill and being so near the English Channel and German occupied France. It would be potentially vulnerable to German air attacks or commando raids. The Churchill’s spent their weekends at Ditchley, in Oxfordshire, or their official country residence, Chequers, in Buckinghamshire.

In 1946 the Churchill’s  could no longer afford to keep up the property, so a consortium of wealthy businessmen purchased the estate and arranged a nominal rent so the Churchills could live there until their deaths. Churchill died in 1965 and Lady Churchill decided to present the property to the National Trust at that time as pre-arranged. I think this home may have brought back too many memories for her.  

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Let’s take a look at this beautiful estate. First, the home. No pictures allowed inside, so we’ll see it from every angle outside! Most pictures get a look at Clementine’s roses too!

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Let’s sit awhile and just enjoy the view from the terrace! I LOVED this table!

A Unique Table on One the Terraces Overlooking the Grounds, Chartwell, UK

A Unique Table on One the Terraces Overlooking the Grounds, Chartwell, UK

The Open Grounds of Chartwell, Kent, UK

The Open Grounds of Chartwell, Kent, UK

The Open Grounds of Chartwell, Kent, UK

The Open Grounds of Chartwell, Kent, UK

I could be very happy in one of the cottages found behind the garden walls!

One of Three Cottages on the Grounds of Chartwell, Kent, UK

One of Three Cottages on the Grounds of Chartwell, Kent, UK

A tip: Get to Chartwell early in the day. The admissions are timed, so you may have to wait to get inside the grounds, although that might be a blessing as there is a fabulous cafe there called, “Landemare”, after their cook. There are Chalkboards everywhere on the grounds with quotes from Winston Churchill! 

Cafe Landemare, Charwell, kent, UK

Cafe Landemare, Charwell, Kent, UK

Cafe Landemare, Charwell, Kent, UK

Cafe Landemare, Charwell, Kent, UK

Also, as with most National Trust properties, there is a gift shop you could spend hours in. Or you can look over lots of plants that are available to purchase and take home. Oh, if I only lived in England! I would need an 80 acre garden for all my National Trust plants! Tomorrow let’s walk through the fabulous gardens of Chartwell!

Plants For Sale, Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Plants For Sale, Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Plants For Sale, Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

Plants For Sale, Chartwell, Westerham, Kent, UK

The National Trust: Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Entrance to the Gift Shop at Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Entrance to the Gift Shop at Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle is another National Trust property and is a real bargain as there are actually two castles and beautiful grounds here to see.  Since we have previously explored the old Castle ruins and the lower gardens in previous posts, today we will be going to the new  Scotney Castle.

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle Garden, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle Garden, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle Garden, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle Garden, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

At the top of the hill stands the new Scotney Castle, which was built to replace the Old Castle between 1835 and 1843. It was designed by Anthoney Salvin, in  the Tudor Revival architectural design. Following the death of Elizabeth Hussey, in 2006, this estate was opened for the first time by the National Trust in 2007.

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

We read previously about the Darrell family, who owned the estate for 350 years, and the ghosts and hauntings during that time that have become legend. In 1778 Edward Hussey bought the estate and his grandson, also named Edward, built the “new” castle from sandstone quarried from the slope below. The hollow created was developed into a quarry garden and contains a 100-year-old impression of a dinosaur’s footprint.

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

When Christopher Hussey died in 1970, the estate was left to the National Trust, which let out several apartments in the castle and on the estate. Margaret Thatcher rented the Belfry flat during the 1970’s and 1980’s, using it for weekend escapes from Westminster.  Very knowledgable staff greet you and are present on the first and second  floors as you tour on your own. The house was left just as it was and it is priceless to see how the other half lives! My favorite rooms were the kitchen, dining room, and dish room! Enjoy your day at Scotney Castle!

“Fear God, Honor the King”, a reading on one of the fireplaces!  Love it!

The Interior of Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

One of the Many Fireplaces of Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

 

Old Scotney Castle in the Daylight!

The Ruins of Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

The Ruins of Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

As promised, today we’ll walk the grounds of Old Scotney Castle! Can you recognize the pictures I created for the Haunted Scotney Castle blog, from the daytime pictures?

First, the aerial view so you get an idea of the ruins of the old castle and the gardens.

Aerial View of Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Aerial View of Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Then we’ll walk down to the ruins that sit at the bottom of the hill to get a closer look! Click on any of the pictures to enlarge them!

Then the gardens…………..

Then the ruins……… up close and personal!

And the haunted entry and bath in the daylight!

One of the Remaining Dorrways at Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

One of the Remaining Doorways at Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UKA

The Bath at Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

The Bath at Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Tomorrow we’ll be at the New Scotney Castle!  Back up the hill we go!  See you there!

New Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

New Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Old Scotney Castle and the Hauntings, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Old Scotney Castle in Dusk, Lamberhurst, UK

Old Scotney Castle in Dusk, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

There are actually two castles at Scotney Castle, near the settlement of Lamberhurst, in Kent; the Old Castle and the New Castle. Today the property is owned by The National Trust, so we had a chance to visit the Scotney property on my “English Garden Tour.” We will walk first, down the hill to the ruins of  the featured medieval, moated manor on a small island, on a small lake; Old Scotney Castle. The lake is surrounded by a sloping wooded garden with collections of rhododendrons, azaleas, wisteria and roses. The ruins of the castle, gardens, moat and lake are beautiful in the bright sunlight of day. But, what do they look like at night?

Since we are nearing Halloween I thought I would look and see if any of the castles or estates we visited were indeed haunted.

So lets sit by the crackling fire with our cup of ale, and let the night play tricks on our mind. The country side is crisp and the early mornings bring a swirling marsh mist, but as dusk falls nature comes alive and the senses are heightened! Pray tell us! What went on at the Old Scotney Castle?

This is what I learned………… about the ghosts at Scotney Castle.  

In 1137 the owner of the estate was Lambert de Scoteni. The family name gave the castle it’s title. (Hence Scotney Castle)

In 1259 Walter de Scoteni was persuaded by William de Valence to give poison to the Earl of Gloucester and his friends, when they dined at a banquet at the manor of the Earl of Gloucester’s. Many people died, however the Earl escaped death, but did lose his hair, teeth and fingernails! Walter de Scoteni was hanged, and some say his ghost walks the castle remains, where eerie whisperings and ghostly footsteps are heard.

In 1378 Roger Ashburnham built a castle, the construction being roughly a rectangular fortified manor house with towers in each corner, designed to withstand attacks by the French on English towns in the south of England. Eventually, the castle became the ancestry home of the Darrell family.

Catholicism was illegal in the 16th century. Thomas Darrell added “priest holes” to the castle to be used for hiding priests fleeing capture. Father Richard Blount, a Jesuit missionary and the family priest at the castle from 1591 to 1598, conducted secret services for the Catholics in Kent. At Christmas in 1598, Father Blount’s presence was betrayed. The authorities took up residence in the castle and conducted rigorous searches of the manor and property. During a terrible storm, and with help from the servants, Father Blount escaped his hiding place and jumped into the moat. He was never caught. Is the ghostly figure…..dripping wet…..that of Father Blount returning to the castle to dry off and carry on with his services?

In the 18th century Arthur Darrell lived in the castle and was a smuggler. Some say he killed a revenue collector and threw his corpse in the moat around the castle. Darrell fled the country and died abroad. In 1720 his body was returned to the estate for burial. It is said that as the coffin was lowered into the ground a tall stranger in a black cloak whispered, “That is not me they think they are burying.” The stranger was never seen again. Did Arthur Darrell fake his own death so he could continue smuggling? Ever since that moment people have described seeing the ghost of the revenue collector rise from the murky depths of the moat, covered in weeds, and taking to a pathway which leads to the front door of the old castle. He is said to bang on the door seeking the long gone spirit of Arthur Darrell.

One of the Doors to the Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

One of the Doors to the Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

In 1924, Darrell’s iron studded coffin in the Scotney Chapel at St Mary’s Church in Lamberhurst, was opened by the sexton. The coffin was filled with rocks! That discovery fueled the story of tax collector ghost at Scotney Castle!

Today the ruins are closed off to the public after teatime. I for one am glad!  So taking liberty with some of my pictures of the castle, I have created their ghostly look at dusk.  Let’s have another cup of ale! Could Walter Scoteni, Father Blount and Authur Darrell be banging on the door to get inside to take a bath? That’s was all I found inside the castle’s ruins!

Inside Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

Inside Old Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, Kent, UK

See you tomorrow in the gardens and castle grounds on a bright summer day! You will see how beautiful the Old Castle and grounds really are!  In the daytime! Enjoy!

Old Scotney Castle, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, UK

We’re off to Scotney Castle, home of Edward Hussey III. What will we find here? More to follow from the castle! See you there!

Scotney Castle, Kent, UK

Scotney Castle, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, UK

The Dirt on the Domestics; Life with the Bloomsburys

Nellie Boxall, Lottie Hope and Grace Higgin

Nellie Boxall, Lottie Hope and Grace Higgins in their Younger Days with Angelica Bell 

In 1904, the Stephen’s children, Vanessa, Virginia, Thoby and Adrian, left their comfortable surroundings  in Kensington, after their parent’s death, to move to the bohemian neighborhood of Bloomsbury. Since they could no longer afford the grand house and the ten servants for four people, they chose to escape many of the rituals of the Victorian household.  No more dark rooms, heavy furniture, formal dinners and restrictive lifestyles for them! Vanessa painted all the rooms of their new home white and decorated with shawls and mirrors! Discussing their new lifestyle in their weekly meetings with the Cambridge Apostles, they were full of ideas about how one should live….think, talk, write and paint. This group, made up of middle and upper class men, except for Vanessa and Virginia, formed The Bloomsbury Group, who were dedicated to domestic experiments, which were scandalous to their families and the general population.  (For more information about the members of the Bloomsbury Group see my previous post on the Charleston Farmhouse.)

They all wanted to be free from the social norms of the time, however, there was one problem. None of them could live without servants. For the men it was easier, they were not expected to take care of themselves or stoop to the mundane tasks of running a household. They could either have servants or replace them with wives, who would take care of all the nitty gritty of the household. Vanessa and Virginia had a dilemma.  Staff demanded a lot of time; they would have to hire and train the servants and supervise their work. Where would they find the time to write and paint? Neither of them knew how to clean or cook, since it had never been required of them. If they did the cooking and cleaning themselves, how would they have time to write and paint? Such a dilemma! The women could only follow their grandiose lifestyle because they and their inner circle of friends relied on some sort of unearned family money for support. It certainly was not the same for their servants.

So while the social experiments were forming and taking shape, who did all the work behind the scenes for Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell?

This is what I learned……..about three of the servants, who worked for these two women.

Nellie Boxall, (1890-1965) was the youngest of ten children and orphaned by the time she was twelve. Life for many of these women meant leaving their large families and taking up work as domestics at an early age, and moving away from their villages into the big cities. They had little to no formal education and relied on their large families for emotional support. Without that support they were nervous and often afraid of the unknown in a new family, and new town. They relied heavily on the friendships of other domestics in the household.  When the wealthy could no longer support the large household, it was a blow to the domestic life in more ways than one. There was more work to do and less support and comfort. 

From 1912 until 1916, Nellie worked for Roger Fry (a member of Bloomsbury Group) and then in 1916 joined the Virginia Woolf household as cook, with Lottie Hope as maid. Nellie’s relationship with Virginia was fraught with tension from the start.

Virginia wanted to live the life of “ the fully self-directed, autonomous woman,” but because of her mental instability and nervous breakdowns was looked after by her servants, who supervised her eating, her bodily needs, and her resting times, in addition to the cooking and cleaning, as instructed by her husband. Virginia hated their meddling and felt she never had any time for herself. She constantly wrote to Vanessa with what she called “the servant problem.”  Virginia absolutely loathed the servants.

“I am sick of the timid, spiteful servant mind, my brains are becoming soft by the constant contact with the lower classes,” she wrote to Vanessa.

I think Virginia wanted life both ways. She felt she couldn’t live with the servants and couldn’t live without them. Even with Virginia’s work for Women’s rights, Virginia had no desire to improve the economic situation of her servants. When Virginia went on to make 4000 pounds a year for her writings, she paid a meager total of 40 pounds a year for her two servants! A woman is hardly going to become self sufficient on 20 pounds a year! Why did the domestics put up with all the strife? In the Woolfe and Bell household the servants didn’t have to wear uniforms, attend church, wait on tables, or do “fetching and carrying” for their employers. They enjoyed the glamour of working for famous artists and traveling with them on their luxurious vacations.  They were allowed to mingle with the guests and no longer lived in the dismal attics or basements. The arrangements with the servants appeared to be “unbelievingly lax.” It was a trade off that they all considered. 

Nellie Boxall stayed with the Woolfs until 1934, although she frequently threatened to quit, having big rows with Virginia. Nellie was doing her best to take care of Virginia and Virginia despised her. Nellie wanted recognition for all she did and Virginia refused to acknowledge her. They played on each others dependencies. Nellie did quit (after 16 years) and went on to work for the actor, Charles Laughton, in London. She made much more money and was treated with respect, something that she never had received from Virginia.  She never married or had children. In her middle age she had saved enough money to buy a house, one of the first people in her neighborhood to do so.  The neighborhood children thought she was “a lady” and “a notch higher in her manner,” but also very bossy. Perhaps she was finally able to express her personality that had been suppressed for years.

Lottie Hope (1890-1973) was a housemaid for Virginia Wollfe. She was a foundling and grew up in the Home for Deserted Children at Hambleton in Surrey. She left the Home at fourteen and went into service at the home of Roger Fry, where she worked with Nellie Boxall. She left Fry’s home and moved to the Woolf’s home when Nellie did. When Lottie had had enough of Virginia she left the Woolfe’s home in 1924, and went to work for several of the Bloomsbury Group, but finally settled with Clive Bell and eventually went with him to Charleston Farmhouse, the country house of his estranged wife. Lottie was back living near her good friend Nellie Boxall, who was like family to her.  She left the Charleston Farmhouse in 1941, to work at a local laundry, and lived with Nellie Boxall, in her house. Like Nellie, she never married or had children, but died at the Hambleton Homes for the Aged. For a fascinating read of all the servants that worked for Virginia Woolf I suggest, Mrs Woolfe and the Servants; an Intimate History of Domestic Life in Bloomsbury, by Alison Light. It sheds light on all the unheard voices of the domestics, while Virginia established her reputation as a feminist. It tells of their meager existence and lack of control of their futures.

Grace Germany Higgins, (1904-1983) called “the Angel of Charleston,” worked for Vanessa Bell for more than fifty years. She came to Charleston at the age of 16 to care for Angelica Bell, Vanessa’s daughter with Duncan Grant. That’s a long intertwined story in itself. I think Grace, at such an early age, was fascinated with the lifestyle created by the Bloomsbury Group, who frequently partied, and lived off and on at Charleston. It certainly would have kept her entertained! Eventually, she was promoted to cook and housekeeper and remained full time at Charleston, even when nobody was there. Was that truly a promotion? There was no indoor facilities, no heating in the house and no running water. When the Bloomsbury gang was all there, and after she had met her household duties and served the Friday evening meal, she was allowed to take her bath outside in the tub, while all  the guests ate their dinner! After her bath she could return and clean up after them! In 1934, she married Walter Higgins, who also worked at Charleston, and they moved into a large bedsit over the kitchen. Ironically, this room is still deemed too un-important to be part of the tour at Charleston. The domestics are still kept firmly in their place.

Grace, her husband, and eventually her son, continued with the Friday night bath rituals the entire time they lived there. Vanessa did have one rule for her varied guests. They had to all be in their proper beds before Grace got up and started to cook and clean. I really think Grace would have known what was going on, she just didn’t let on. Walter Higgins, who hated working for Vanessa and living in her house, finally convinced Grace to leave Charleston, where they had continued to live long after Vanessa was dead. She had stayed to care for the ailing Duncan Grant, who she adored. Grant was always a favorite with everyone. He lived there with Vanessa, and had a child with her, (Vanessa’s wishes as she was madly in love with him), as he continued to carry on with his homosexual friends, who financially supported him until his dying days, while he lived and played at Charleston. He and Vanessa just painted their days away, including every inch of the farmhouse and furniture in squares, circles and triangles, their mantra! Grace took care of them all and never complained! When Grace finally moved to Lewes with her family in 1970, she burned all her detailed diaries of her life at Charleston. She was faithful to them until the end, but her son, John Higgins, recalled his recollections of his mother’s time there to Stewart MacKay, who wrote the book, The Angel of Charleston; Grace Higgins, Housekeeper to the Bloomsbury Group. To get the entire story of Grace and her time with the Bloomsbury Group at Charleston read the book. She truly was an angel! It is an eyeopener in the life of the domestic servant and the hardships they faced. If you read these books, I don’t think you will be disappointed! See you next time as I continue to visit the homes and gardens on my “English Garden Tour!”

The Servants of Virginia Woolfe

Nellie Boxall, Cook, in Later Life, the Woman Standing Far Right

Charleston Farmhouse, Home of Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant

Charleston Farmhouse, Sussex, UK

Charleston Farmhouse, Sussex, UK

Charleston Farmhouse, Sussex, UK

Charleston Farmhouse, Sussex, UK

Charleston Farmhouse, Sussex, UK

Charleston Farmhouse, Sussex, UK

Charleston Farmhouse, the home of Vanessa Stephen Bell, (Virginia Woolf’s sister) is about six miles from Monk’s House, (Virginia Woolf’s home) as the the crow flies. The farmhouse sits in a big open field, down a long narrow road, in the middle of no where.

This is what I learned……..

In 1916, Charleston Farmhouse was rented by Vanessa Bell, and Duncan Grant, under the terms of his exemption from the military as a conscientious objector. He and his lover, David Garnett, were employed at a nearby farm and lived at Charleston with Vanessa Bell. Vanessa Bell was married at the time to Clive Bell and would remain so all her life. Their unconventional household became the meeting place for the Bloomsbury Group, a group of writers, artists and intellectuals who had formed from the Apostles group at Cambridge. Vanessa’s and Duncan’s decorative style, made up of squares, circles, and triangles, were featured throughout the farmhouse on every wall, ceiling and piece of furniture! People came and went over the years but the farmhouse was lived in by Vanessa and Duncan for sixty years. Vanessa stated, “it will be an odd life, but……. it ought to be good for painting.” The Bloomsbury members came here to relax and have fun. It was said the group lived in squares, painted in circles, and loved in triangles. To me their life was very complicated. To them they lived a bohemian life, and felt anything was OK as long as it didn’t hurt anybody. I’m not sure you can live that life without hurting somebody. Just my thoughts, I tend to be starchy.

There is no picture taking allowed inside Charleston Farmhouse and only a small group is allowed in at any one time with a well versed guide. You must make a reservation or risk not getting in or having to wait. The rooms show a complete example of the decorative art of the Bloomsbury artists: murals, ceramics, paintings, textiles and objects from their Omega Workshops. Vanessa’s room was painted by Duncan, Vanessa’s lover. (a triangle between her, Duncan and David Garnett) He painted a huge red dog above her bed, to always protect her, and she painted his room in delicate pastel circles, squares, and flowers. There are lots of bedrooms in the farmhouse and what struck me the most were the various ceramic numbers above the doorway representing a specific room. For some reason it reminded me of something you would find in a bordello. Maybe because the guide kept reminding us of all the people who came and went and their various activities there. They did more than paint, write, or talk. The farmhouse was interesting and different and the garden was beautiful. It is now owned by the Charleston Trust, a charity set up in 1980 to restore and maintain the property. Every May there is the Charleston Festival, which draws artists and writers alike to promote the arts. For more information about the Charleston Farmhouse see here. There were several very knowledgable artists among our tour group and artists could be found painting or sketching in the garden while we were there, so it is still an artists’ hangout. Let’s walk through the garden!

Click on any image for a larger look!

While visiting Charleston, I bought a book at the gift shop, called, Vanessa and Her Sister, by Priya Parmar,  which enlightened me further on the Bloomsbury Group, Vanessa Bell, and Virginia Woolf. Their lives were anything, but conventional. I won’t go into ALL the details, but it was a very good read! The group had ten or so core members, the males, all educated at Trinity or Kings College of Cambridge, and were called the Apostles. Vanessa and Virginia’s brother, Thoby, was friends with the Apostles and this is how they came to meeting at the Stephens home in Bloomsbury, a neighborhood in London, in which Vanessa and Virginia, the only women, were included. Here is the Bloomsbury Group.

Clive Bell, art critic, Vanessa Bell’s eventual husband.

E.M Forster, fiction writer.

Roger Fry, art critic and post impressionist painter. (Had a passionate affair with Vanessa Bell)

John Maynard Keynes, economist. (Had an affair with Duncan Grant, but married Russian ballet dancer, Lydia Lopokova, and eventually lived close to Charleston Farmhouse.

Desmond McCarthy, literary journalist.

Lytton Strachey, biographer, who was Virginia Woolf’s fiancé for one day.  He was a homosexual and in love with his cousin, Duncan Grant.

Leonard Woolf, essayist and non-fiction writer, who married Virginia Stephen.

Thoby Stephen, brother of Virginia and Vanessa, who brought all these men home for dinner and their weekly meetings in Bloomsbury.

Virginia Woolf, fiction writer, essayist and publisher.

Vanessa Bell, post-impressionist painter, started Friday painting club, an addition to the Thursday night intellectual meetings.

Duncan Grant, post-impressionist painter and Vanessa’s lover. He was also the father of Vanessa’s only daughter. He also had many homosexual affairs. What a triangle this was! There was a lot going on with them, read the book!

Were they a group of rich spoiled kids, who did what they wanted, come what may? Or were they trying to change the world? They had grown up in a strict victorian society, and then the great war and the loss of so many men changed the lives of all English men and women forever.  Women were no longer confined to the home and women’s rights were taking front and center stage.  Men and women did not want to return to service for the affluent. The affluent could no longer manage their large estates and homes. So times were changing! Were the Bloomsburys just caught up in this new way of life? Were they the survivors? You can draw your own conclusions. Next we’ll explore the lives of the maids and housekeepers that took care of Virginia and Vanessa! After I had explored  the Bloomsburys, I wanted to know about the other side of that coin! See you next time in the kitchen!

One of my Favorites in the Charleston Farmhouse Garden, Sussex, UK

One of my Favorites in the Charleston Farmhouse Garden, Sussex, UK

The Village of Rodmell, Sussex, UK

The Abergavenny Arms Pub, Rodmell, Sussex UK

The Abergavenny Arms Pub, Rodmell, Sussex UK

In the last several posts I have been writing about Virginia Woolf and her country retreat, Monks House, situated in Rodmell. I am fascinated with small English villages and the people that live in them. Rodmell proved to be one of the smallest, population 250. The Lewes to Newhaven Road twists and turns and upon reaching the Abergavenny Arms Pub, you turn onto a smaller paved road and follow it until it dead ends at Mill Lane, where the parking spaces are for Monk’s House. It was an easy walk through the one lane village of about twenty homes to reach the pub after our visit to the gardens and cottage.  However, I was in for a bigger surprise.

The Sign to Monk's House, Rodmekll, Sussex, UK

The Sign to Monk’s House, Rodmekll, Sussex, UK

This is what I learned………….

The small village of  Rodmell, which can be translated from Old English meaning, place with red soil, has been here before the time of the Norman Conquest, when it was held by Harold II. Located along the River Ouse, the village was an important crossing point between the South Downs way and the Roman road to the port of Newhaven, having a cross channel route to Dieppe in France. The springs in Rodmell made it the perfect place for people to live because there was water here. The original village well is located inside the Abergavenny Arms Pub. So the pub truly was the original “watering hole!”

In 1085, the Doomsday Book noted there was a church in Rodmell, which was granted to Lewes Priory by William de Warenne, Second Earl of Surrey. This early Norman church is dedicated to St Peter. The font is believed to be Saxon predating the church itself. People have been inhabiting this area for a long time. But the most extraordinary find for me, was the name William de Warenne. That name rang a bell. So upon searching my ancestry files, another passion I follow and update regularly, I located William de Warenne. He is my 27th great grandfather! So strolling this small village which has remained unchanged for several centuries was particularly interesting to me!

Let’s admire the village on the way to the pub!

In 1439 Rodmell Manor  was owned by the Bergavennys, hence the name Abergavenny Arms Pub. For more information about the Pub look here.

In the 1600’s Monk’s House was built as a row of a small cottages.

In 1810, a milling family (The Glazebrooks) moved into Monk’s House and the three or four other small cottages on the property were used for agricultural laborers. The Glazebrooks lived at Monk’s House for the next sixty years.  The Mill was on the hillside just on the other side of the pub, and was sold in 1876. There was also a blacksmith at this junction.  So we’ll whet our whistle at the pub since we’ve had another fine day in the UK! We’ll start afresh with the Charleston House, home of Vanessa Bell (Virginia Woolf’s sister), and learn about the Bloomsbury Group!  See you then!

The Flowers of Rodmell, Sussex, UK

The Flowers of Rodmell, Sussex, UK

The National Trust: The Garden at Virginia Woolf’s Monk’s House

The Garden at Monk's House, Rodmell, UK

The Garden at Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

The Garden at Monk's House, Rodmell, UK

The Garden at Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

In letters to friends Virginia said, “ The point of Monks House is the garden. I shan’t tell you, for you must come and sit there on the lawn with me, or stroll in the apple orchard, or pick—-there are cherries, plums, pears, figs, together with all the vegetables. This is going to be the pride of our hearts I warn you.”

The Greenhouse, Monk's House, Rodmell, UK

The Greenhouse, Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

The Chalkboard Sign of Diary Quotes, Virginia, Woolf

The Chalkboard Sign of Diary Quotes, Virginia, Woolf

Many of the details of day to day life found in Virginia’s diary include the gardens. (Note the writing from her diary displayed on the chalkboard in front of the glasshouse that is being reconstructed in the yard.)

By 1928, after expanding their plot Virginia felt they had really started to “dig in.”

So the Woolfs spent their days comfortably, with Virginia writing in her room or in the lodge, and entertaining many of their Bloomsbury friends, while Leonard became an expert gardener.  Virginia often commented the garden was the third person in their marriage. For Leonard tending and developing the garden was totally absorbing. Virginia found peace and tranquility in the garden which helped her mental state of mind, and walking to her lodge every morning was part of her creative routine.

The Vegetable Garden at Monk's House, Rodmell, UK

The Vegetable Garden at Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

The vegetable garden was so productive, that when the Woolfs were in London they would have a hamper sent to them every week to keep them supplied. The excess produce was sent to the Women’s Institute market.  Home Fires on BBC’s Masterpiece Theatre is a good start to learning about the Women’s Institute and a very good movie about how one of the women’s group chose to raise money is portrayed in Calendar Girls. It is one of my favorite movies!

The Italian Garden, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The Italian Garden, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The Italian Garden, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The Italian Garden, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The Italian Garden, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The Italian Garden, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

In 1933, following the publication of Flush (Virginia’s biography of Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s cocker spaniel named Flush) they were able to make additions to their garden.  Upon returning from a trip to Tuscany in the same year, work started on an Italian garden by adding plants, pavings and walkways to various parts of the garden.  Virginia’s contribution was to buy pots, urns, and a statue.

Eventually as the garden grew Leonard employed a gardener, Percy Bartholomew,  who would live in one of the cottages near the property that the Woolfs had bought when they purchased Monk’s House. Although their garden was small and unpretentious compared to that of some of their friends, notably Vita Sackville-West, the delightfully small, informal garden is what made it so special. Leonard was so engrossed in gardening that in 1941 he founded the Rodmell Horticultural Society. I wondered if it included everyone in the village, because it is a very small place! Maybe it was his Bloomsbury Group! Next we”ll explore the village of Rodmell so you can see for yourselves! See you there!

The National Trust: Monk’s House; Home of Virginia Woolf

The Lane to Monks House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

The Lane to Monk’s House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Parking at the end of a narrow country lane in Rodmell, Sussex, we walked to the  National Trust Property of Monk’s House, the country cottage that was the home of Leonard and Virginia Woolf from 1919 until her death in 1941. There are few houses on this country lane and it is quiet and peaceful. That is the exact reason it was purchased in the first place. During WWI Virginia lived in nearby Firle to escape the hubbub of London, and the war, and to diminish the anxiety and depressive episodes that she experienced when stressed. Following the war she and Leonard bought Monk’s House and lived there a good part of the year, as Leonard thought it was better for her health.

This is what I learned……….

Unlike other homes we have visited on The National Trust, Monk’s House is a small unpretentious home, that anyone could have lived in. I would have loved to have lived in this house! It is not too big, but cozy, and the interior is a time capsule of the 1930’s. You get the feeling Virginia is waiting to greet you at the door! The house itself is a timber framed, but weather boarded house, that originally had a Sussex stone roof, but now is slate.

The front of the house faces the garden, the back is to the street, as we see here. Let’s go in the gate!

The Entrance to Monk's House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

The Entrance to Monk’s House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Sign at Monk's House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Sign at Monk’s House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Monks House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Monk’s House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Monks House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Monk’s House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

Previously renting an old roundhouse windmill,  Virginia and Leonard saw the advertisement for the auction of Monk’s House, which included three other small cottages and a 3/4 acre garden. Spread out on the lawn, during the auction, were the provisions and paintings from the previous owners, the Glazebrook family.  The Woolfs bought the property and three primitive paintings for 700 pounds. Another draw to the house was the fact that Virginia’s sister, Vanessa, had bought the farmhouse, Charleston, just a few miles away, where she and several members of the Bloomsbury Group had settled to entertain and paint.

The house was derelict when they moved in…… no electricity, no running water and no inside toilets, just a earth closet in the garden. I wasn’t sure what an earth closet was so I have included a picture here with instructions!

Slowly, as finances improved they updated the house adding bathrooms, which included an inside toilet in 1926, and a kitchen. The two bathrooms were paid for from Virginia’s earnings from Mrs. Dalloway and she often said when she was going to the toilet that she was going to see Mrs. Dalloway! By 1929 with the earnings from their Hogarth press business, (remember Virginia was printing and hand binding books for therapy), they decided to add  a two story extension, which included “a room of one’s own.”  The sitting room was moved upstairs because the view of the garden and South Downs was beautiful and Virginia used the downstairs room as her bedroom. The only way in and out of her bedroom was via a door to the garden. Leonard slept at the opposite room of the house and every  morning brought Virginia her coffee in bed.

Virginia's Room of her Own, Monks House, Sussex, UK

Virginia’s Room of her Own, Monk’s House, Sussex, UK

The lower to door is to the kitchen of the main house and used to be a shed!

The Kitchen Entrance at Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The Kitchen Entrance at Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

A Room of One's Own, Monks House, Rodmell, Sussex, UK

A Room of One’s Own, Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia's Bedroom, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia’s Bedroom, Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia’s favorite color was viridian green!  Her friends and family thought it horrid!

More property was added so they could have an unobstructed view of the South Downs,   and a writing lodge was tucked into the orchard garden for a retreat for Virginia.

The South Downs, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

The South Downs, Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia's Writing Lodge, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia’s Writing Lodge, Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia's Bedroom Writing Area, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia’s Lodge Writing Area, Monks House, Rodmell, UK

Behind the back garden wall sits St Peter’s Church, which I thought made the grounds very peaceful and serene. The garden was Virginia’s source of inspiration.

St Peters Church, Rodmell, UK

St Peter’s Church, Rodmell, UK

A View of St Peters Church, from the Garden at Monks House, Rodmell, UK

A View of St Peters Church, from the Garden at Monks House, Rodmell, UK

By 1939 the Woolfs were living full time at Monks House to escape the bombing in London. Their home in Bloomsbury was destroyed. The peace was shattered for Virginia when German bombers flew low, almost daily, over Sussex on their way to bomb London.  Her brother provided both of them with lethal doses of morphine in case the Germans invaded. During this time they were both nervous because Leonard was Jewish and Virginia was listed in Hitler’s black book. The anxiety took its toll and Virginia committed suicide by filling her pockets with rocks and drowning herself in the nearby Ouse River. She left two suicide notes, one for Leonard and one for her sister, Vanessa. Her ashes were scattered unceremoniously under an Elm tree in the backyard.

Leonard lived at Monks House for 50 years and died there in 1969, at the age of 88. He left the cottage and property to his friend Trekkie Ritchee Parsons, who really didn’t know what to do with it and so passed it to the University of Sussex. The university sold off the 4000 books and rented the house to visiting lecturers. Eventually it was too much for them and they gave the house to The National Trust in 1980. A sizable sum of money was raised by Quentin and Angelica Bell (Virginia’s surviving nephew and niece; children of Vanessa) for the upkeep.  Quentin was at this time a Professor of Fine Art and History of Ceramics at the University of Sussex. Together they helped to restore the house to 90% of how it was in Leonard’s and Virginia’s time there. We were able to explore four of the rooms of the cottage, the rest of the house is cordoned off for the resident caretaker. There are guides in each room who can explain all the artifacts and what they meant to the family. It was a joy to visit and next we’ll explore the garden at Monk’s House!  See you there! 

Virginia and Leonard Woolf, Monk's House, Rodmell, UK

Virginia and Leonard Woolf, Monk’s House, Rodmell, UK

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