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Archive for ‘2013’

Paris for Christmas

In a few days we are headed off to the City of Lights for the Christmas holidays. At this time of year traveling can be a real headache.  Will the weather be frightful?  Will the lines be as long as waiting for Santa? It is getting harder to get from Point A to Point B without going to A1, A2, and A3 in between!  Ugh! Which airport do I have to take my shoes off at?  Which airport do I have to take my umbrella out of my carry-on? Which airport does not allow any lap top cords or electronics unless they are all bundled together in a plastic bag?  It’s enough to give you a gigantic headache!  But, I found one airline, WestJet, a Canadian airline, that treats it’s guests at least once a year to a great time!  Be sure to watch the video to put a smile on your face!

Joan of Arc Park, Quebec City

One of the Displays in Joan of Arc Park

One of the Displays in Joan of Arc Park

Yesterday we took a carriage ride through Quebec City.  The guide was very attentive and we learned more about this fabulous city.  We eventually rounded the Joan of Arc Park and I knew I wanted to come back on my own time to take pictures of the wonderful decorations in this neighborhood park.  So early this morning we piled into a cab and asked to go to the Plains of Abraham, the large stretch of parkland and battleground where the Joan of Arc Park is located.  We roared up the hill and through the town and through the town and through the town. I was thinking I didn’t remember it being very far, but hey I had been enjoying the carriage ride so maybe it was.  We got out at a field track and the taxi driver pointed to a bend in the road so we were sure the Joan of Arc Park was right around the corner, even though we didn’t see it.  We walked around the corner and nothing, just another road going along the St Lawrence River, but it did look to be a park.

The Beautiful Gardens we Walked through to Get to the Park

The Beautiful Gardens we Walked through to Get to the Park

The Woods where the Kids were having the Best Time!

The Woods where the Kids were having the Best Time!

We walked back to the field track where several people were jogging or walking, enjoying the beautiful warm fall day. An elderly woman stopped to ask if we needed help. Ah! The babushka lady to the rescue again! See https://cadyluckleedy.com/2013/03/27/safetyand-the…ndparent-types  When she realized we spoke English and she spoke only French the pantomiming began. Basically we got the message to follow the river road.  So we started walking.  And Walking.  And walking.  There were woods between the river road and the river and in the woods we could hear the voices and laughter of children.  Lots of children.  They must have been on a field trip we decided.  Boy were they having fun whooping it up!  We walked on.  We had a map and finally came to a sign that was actually on our map.  We were outside the boundaries of our tourist’s map!  We kept walking.  We walked on the road then we walked on the path.  Then we walked on the road again.  I decided to walk up up up the hill in the grass to see if anything looked like what were looking for.  I could see another path up there but wasn’t sure I could reach it without going all the way along the bottom of the road until the two paths finally met up. How far would that be?  We walked some more, passing joggers, more joggers, and those show offs jogging pushing a baby carriage too. Finally another couple, that looked as pooped as we were, moved across a wide meadow and we decided we would follow suit. We FINALLY made our way up to the higher street where there was a bench to rest on, thank goodness! There were kids everywhere!  School outings!  One group of  nine and ten year olds were lined up on the grass: one group dressed as Indians the other group dressed as soldiers.  They were having such fun and so were we watching them!  We eventually made our way to the Joan of Arc Park where there were more students and teachers.  What a great way to teach history!  The displays were eye catching, entertaining and there were signs pointing out the historical meaning to each display.  I learned a lot!

The Joan of Arc park and Garden

The Joan of Arc Park and Garden

One of the displays in Joan of Arc Park

One of the displays in Joan of Arc Park

Flowers and Foilage

Flowers and Foliage

The Scarecrow in the Middle

The Scarecrow in the Middle

The Rock

The Rock

Purple Foliage

Purple Foliage with Red Berries

More Pumpkins

More Pumpkins

Still More Pumpkins

Still More Pumpkins

The Tunnel Pumpkins

The Tunnel Pumpkins

The Pirate Ship

The Pirate Ship

You Are a Monster If You Pick the Flowers!

You Are a Monster If You Pick the Flowers!

The Gaol

The Gaol

The Chain Gang Sign

The Chain Gang Sign

The Duelers

The Duelers

Grave Markers

Grave Markers

The Coffin

The Coffin

The Pumpkin Streetlight

The Pumpkin Street Light

Several times during our stay in Quebec City we ate at the Buffet de Antiquaire,  clustered in a row  of antique shops.  Every time we ventured by this restaurant it was packed!  One evening we decided that this had to be the place to try.  Walking up a few short steps into a cozy diner atmosphere we were greeted by a young waitress who promptly seated us.  There was a tiny main floor room and a room upstairs. The chalkboard revealed the “Specials of the day.” The food was generous in proportions, home made like grandma’s and the atmosphere welcoming! One of my best local finds!  Enjoy!

Buffet de Antiquaire

Buffet de Antiquaire

It’s October! City Hall Decorations in Quebec City, It Doesn’t Get Any Better Than This!

Today we are going to discover the fabulous decorations at City Hall and around Quebec City! I just love all the beautiful displays at this time of year!!  Enjoy! There was construction around and drilling going on, they are making an underground parking lot with a garden above.  Can’t wait to see that when it is finished!

Pumpkins for Everyone!

Pumpkins for Everyone!

The Bat Tree

The Bat Tree

The Bat Tree With Spooky Cats!

The Bat Tree With Spooky Cats!

The BiiiiiiiiG Witch!

The BiiiiiiiiG Witch!

The Witches Clothes Line

The Witches Clothes Line

The Street Lights are Even Decked Out!

The Street Lights are Even Decked Out!

The Pirate Ship

The Pirate Ship with Cargo of Purple and Orange Pumpkins!

The Mast

The Mast

The Fog Even Rolls in For Effect!

The Fog Rolls in For Effect!

Another Pirate Ship!

Another Pirate Ship!

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Another Witch

The Pirates have Arrived!

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I Love the Orange ans Red Grass!

I Love the Orange and Red Grass!

It must take them forever to work out the artwork, set up the displays and plant the planters!  Unbelievable and sooooooo enjoyable!

The Plant Scapes

The Plant Scapes

And here are a couple of shots of cool buildings in the area!

Serenity

Serenity

The Half Round Building

The Half Round Building

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I think they are putting in an ice rink!  Looking ahead to the Christmas Season!

The Coach Ride with The Dog

The Coach Ride with The Dog

Ok, we are heading out of the protective walls of Quebec City! Come back tomorrow to see what is in store for us on the other side!

Out We Go!

Out We Go!

Oh Canada!!

Folk Music

Street Folk Music

Basse-Ville

Basse-Ville

The Beauty in the Walls

The Beauty in the Walls

Today we are walking to Haute-Ville, the next layer of Quebec City.  We leche-vitrine (window shop) along the Petit-Champlain passing lovely art galleries and shops, when I am compelled to stop at Pot en Ciel, a delightfully and artistically decorated kitchen ware shop that always seems to have the latest in cuisine accessories, cooking and table ware.   Afterwards, mingling with the tourists from the cruise ships that dock and depart here, we take the funicular to the promenade walkway that is in the front of the famous and majestic Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, due in most part  because of how it dominates the skyline of Quebec City. Designed by American architect, Bruce Price, it was one of a series of “chateau” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway during the late 19th century.  The hotel was named for Louis de Baude, count of Frontenac, who was governor of the colony of New France from 1672 to 1698, with a few years off in the middle.  In 1944 the Chateau became the action center of Quebec Conferences of WWII.  A tour of the Chateau with costumed tour guides gives you a glimpse into the rooms of  “The Who’s Who of Who Has Slept Here” (my term, don’t ask for that as the tour!).

A View from the Funicular

A View from the Funicular

The Cruise Ships

The Cruise Ships

The Frontenac Hotel

The Frontenac Hotel

The Promemade

The Promenade

The View From the Promenade

The View of the Frontenac and the Promenade

The sight is breathtaking.  Here artists and musicians reveal their talents as we walk the promenade gazing down at the cruise ships in Vieux-Port and up, up, up at the Frontenec Hotel.  It looks like a castle, but has always been a grand scale hotel. I am sad to say many tourists go no farther than the promenade and surrounding shops and restaurants.  Meandering through the streets we find shops, cafes, restaurants  and charming fall displays.

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

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Quebec City Canada Cafe

Haute-Ville Streets

Haute-Ville Streets

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Quebec City Canada Sculpture

Some make it the tiny rue du Tresor, a small alleyway lined with working artists.  For those who trek on, meandering the winding streets of Haute-Ville there are the Christmas shops, boutiques, plant landscapes and the Morrin Center awaiting you.

Plant Displays!

Plant Displays!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

The Morrin Center is one of my favorite stops.  I can’t wait to show you this years decorations and pictures from past years!  We’ll start there tomorrow! As we finish up the day we return to Vieux Quebec and one of the best restaurants in the quarter, the Lapin Saute, the rabbit restaurant.  I love the food, ambiance and the outdoor decorations of this restaurant.  It is truly what you would imagine a French bistro to be!

Le Lupin Saute

Le Lapin Saute

Outdoor Seating at Le Lepin

Outdoor Seating at Le Lapin (Notice the Rabbit Tables)

Le Lapin at Night

Le Lapin at Night

Inside Le Lepin

Inside Le Lapin

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The Menu

The Menu

The French Onion Soup

The French Onion Soup

I began my meal with the french onion soup studded with a thick white Canadian cheese followed by the rabbit (french) cassoulet. Absolutely yummy! I was so digging into the cassoulet I forgot to take a  picture!!!!  I’m headed back to the Germain-Dominion Hotel and after a mocha night cap I’m off to bed!  See you tomorrow at the Morrin Center!

For more information about Pot en Ciel, 27 Petit Champlain, Quebec, Canada view http://www.quartierpetitchamplain.com for a street map of all the shops and restaurants located there.

For information on the Chateau  Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrieres, view TripAdvisor.

For information on Le Lapin Saute, 52 Rue Du Petit-Champlain see TripAdvisor.

The Most European City in North America!

Fountain in Vieux Quebec

Fountain in Vieux Quebec near Hotel Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

Driving the back roads to Quebec City, I am on the lookout for the signs warning of the snow mobile crossings. The paths zig-zag along the highway and at intervals swoop across the road.  I daydream about going to grandma’s for Thanksgiving in a snowmobile.  The trees would zip by, the air is filled with the scent of pine and wood smoke, and the wind puts roses on my cheeks! I’d get to grandma’s ready to sit by the fire with the aroma of the Thanksgiving meal surrounding me!   Heaven! I get that comfortable and at home feeling when I go to my favorite hotel in Quebec City, the Hotel Le Germain-Dominion in the old town of Quebec City. The hotel is easy to find, has an attendant parking lot that is located behind the hotel and is in a perfect location for exploring Quebec City. The hotel itself is in a section of bank buildings.  With the first bonjour you are in for a very special stay.

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

I’m not talking Bank of America here, I mean when banks were banks with grand entry ways, fresco ceilings and huge draped crystal chandeliers. It looks more like a ballroom.  THAT bank is still here on the corner. Can you imagine? Just walking in you would hope for a line to wait in, so you could enjoy the surroundings!   It takes up the entire block and one section on the opposite end corner has been converted into Le Germain-Dominion Hotel.  When one walks into the lobby of the hotel, it is a small part of a larger room.

Inside the Lobby le Germaine-Dominion Hotel

Inside the Lobby Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

IMG_1546A room with a huge fireplace and comfy squashy sofas and chairs surrounding the fireplace.  In the center of the room is an extensive coffee station with a massive brewer to make cafes, au laits, mochas, and more, to serve in china cups and bowls.  You know already how I like the bowls (bols) of au lait!

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

There are also large tables, I’m talking wide, wide, wide dining room size tables and chairs to sit and spread your favorite newspaper out before you as you eat a healthy delicious breakfast in the morning. Or you can just relax and have coffee, tea, wine or liqueur at any time of day. In the mornings I love to come down here and see everyone spread out at the tables.  Eating like this also makes it easy to join in conversation with other guests as we sit, eat and enjoy our spread out newspapers.  I love the Globe and Mail Newspaper!  The paper is thin, shiny and in color, with the best articles ever on what is happening in Quebec.  I can really enjoy the morning breakfasts.  No one seems rushed, although there is an additional section where the business men tend to gather for early or late meetings. In the evenings the guests linger by the fireplace drinking coffee or wine and discussing their day, politics, where they are from or where they are going.  Great conversations, and just as comfortable and hospitable as being at grandma’s for the holiday. Taking the elevator to the rooms,  stepping off the elevator you enter a bank vault door (an original) which tells you which section of the hotel you are in.

The room at Le Germain- Dominion Boutique Hotel

The Room at Le Germain-Dominion Boutique Hotel

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The rooms are very large, modern, boutique style with HUGE walk in, glassed, rain showers that offer every amenity possible.

The Glassed Rain Shower

The Glassed Rain Shower

Returning downstairs, after my bol de au lait, I am out the door to walk the 17th Century neighborhoods of Vieux Quebec /Old Town Quebec City.

The Restaurants on my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A Restaurant along my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenec Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenac Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

The Funiculer

The Funicular to Upper Quebec City

Shops in Vieux Quebec

Shops in Vieux Quebec

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Rue du Petit-Champlain

Rue du Petit-Champlain

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

Place Royale

Place Royale

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Place Royale Square

Place Royale Square

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Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica

Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica as Night Falls

As night begins to fall, our destination is the La Piazzetta, on the corner of rue Saint-Paul, right across from the hotel. The restaurant offers a tiny cozy atmosphere and friendly knowledgeable staff helping us with our french, and serving home made pizzas with farm fresh ingredients.  The pizzas are so large the pizza tin in perched on a side extension of the table, so it looks like it is floating in the air.  We started off with an appetizer of Canadian cheese and warm fruit and an assortment of bread and sticks. The cafe was a buzz of guests enjoying their meals.

La Piazzetta

La Piazzetta

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

IMG_1341Afterwards we return to the hotel for a good night’s rest and look forward for our day tomorrow in Basse-Ville, the lower town of Quebec City. See you there!

For more information about Le Hotel Germain-Dominion see: http://www.germaindominion.com, 126 rue Saint-Pierre, Quebec City, Canada

La Piazzetta is located at 63 rue Saint-Paul, Vieux-Port, Quebec Canada

Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica, 16 rue Buade, is free and open to the public.  There are also tours of the crypt available.  See: http://www.patrimoine-religieux.com

Sutton Re-Visited

Le Pleasant Hotel/B&B

Le Pleasant Hotel/B&B

This morning we are up and at ‘em very early to make our way into Canada and our second stop after the French-Canadian hunk, who checked our passports and asked us a bazillion questions, is one of my favorite villages, Sutton. This year we are staying at Le Pleasant, the village’s turn of the century grand home of the local doctor turned restaurant, hotel/bed and breakfast.  We were greeted warmly by Micheal and shown to our bright front room-second floor guest suite in modern black and grey decor.

Our room at Le Pleasant

Our Room at Le Pleasant

IMG_1269The entire home was lovingly restored by Bertin and Michael who moved from Montreal to Sutton to start their bed & breakfast business. The hotel is centrally located in the village, which is easily walkable in fifteen minutes. After settling in we headed over toLe Cafetier, the local cafe for my coffee fix.

Le Cafetier

Le Cafetier

A Bowl of Cafe au Lait

A Bowl of Cafe au Lait

This is cafe au lait that I can drink from a bowl here. The Canadians have got coffee right. We ordered sandwiches and enjoyed the ambiance of the small French village.

Le Sandwich

Le Sandwich

Our next stop was Au Couer des Saisons, a beautifully decorated shop for all seasons owned by Elaine.  She is the owner of the kitchenware and gift shop which includes being the local florist, and jeweler.

Ou Couer des Soisons

Ou Couer des Soisons

We spent a lively time translating, talking and laughing with Elaine (I hope I am spelling her name correctly) while discovering the credit card safe wallets, new kitchen gadgets and every soap and fragrance! This is what is so magical about a locally owned shop and small village, you get to know the locals and feel part of the neighborhood.  That afternoon Micheal suggested a restaurant in nearby Frelighsburg, since their restaurant is closed on Monday evenings. He made the reservation and printed out a map for us.  Traveling in the country, at night, can be a challenge for the map impaired like I am.  My car had a GPS system that did not know where I was either!  So early evening, while it was still light, we set off for Frelighsburg and the Lyvano Restaurant. Now, I want you to know it is VERY DARK in the country here.  There are no country light posts and the homes are few and far between. However, they have the most amazing guard rails where needed. Believe me when I say they glow in the dark!  They glow in the dark BRIGHTLY and can be seen only when your headlights shine on them. I couldn’t figure out how they worked.  Were they actually small lights?  Reflective tape?  I slowed down and pulled over to take a closer look.  Reflective tape!!!!!!  It is truly amazing. This stuff should be slapped on your child at night!  I kept thinking how very dark it was with no lights. Is this the dirt road where I turn left? It crossed my mind, “Is this where flying saucers land and abduct you”?  Just as I was getting a little nervous I would see the reflectors. “Hmm…… This would make an excellent landing area for those space ships and here is the way!”  I pointed out markers to help me remember where to make critical turns on the way home when it would be REALLY DARK!  Turn left at that thingy that looks like a white cross swooping in the woods, turn right at the thing on the fence that looks like a scarecrow, turn left at that sweet woman’ s house (that I know must live in that one house) that has it’s porch light on.  We made it into Frelighsburg as the mist and light rain set in.  Now where was the parking lot?  I didn’t see one and there was no parking in front of the restaurant with the “Ouvre” flag blowing in the breeze.  Hmm.  I pulled into a tiny shopping area parking lot to a few blocks away to sleuth. I waited.  Surely, there would be others going in the restaurant?  I had time to wait. Finally, a car rolled slowly down the street and pulled between two buildings across the street from Lyvano. I watched as several people walked to the restaurant from those buildings and then drove my car to the buildings as well.  There was no parking there unless you wanted to park in someone’s driveway.  I went back to the grocery parking lot, parked and got out.  As we walked to the restaurant I heard the rushing of water and noticed there was a roaring river or stream on the backside of the restaurant where tables with umbrellas were set up.  How beautiful this setting would be on a clear night! Tonight was a Halloween night, misty, windy and spooky.  We entered the tiny restaurant decorated as a Paris bistro, including a twisted tree vine intertwined with soft white twinkle lights on the ceiling.

Inside Lyvano

Inside Lyvano

After the waiter helped us interpret the menu we were delighted to eat one the best meals I have ever eaten.

Filet et legumes

Filet et legumes

After that we had to try the desert.

La dessert

Le dessert

We enjoyed talking with the waiter, and talking to Elizabeth, the twenty something chef, who is also the owner of this superb restaurant. Completely satisfied we ventured out into the night to make our way down the twisted country roads between forests and cornfields. Following my girl-map markers we found Le Pleasant again and took the staircase to our warm comfy beds. In the morning we were again greeted by Bertin and Micheal at breakfast, served in their lovely restaurant on the first floor of the hotel.

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

The Restaurant at Le Pleasant

Breakfast at its Best!

Breakfast at its Best!

IMG_1273 The food was delicious, but it was time to say goodbye for this year to our good friends in Sutton. We travel north to Quebec City on some roads with fields marked with Celtic rock mounds!

The Road to Quebec City!

The Road to Quebec City!

For details about Le Pleasant Hotel, 1 rue Pleasant, Sutton, Quebec, Canada  see: http://www.lepleasant.com

For the best shopping in Sutton see: Ou Couer des Soisons, 4 rue Maple, Sutton, Canada

For an incredible meal see Lyvano Restaurant, 4 rue Principale, Freilighsburg,Canada and Le Cafetier is the best cafe in Sutton, found on the main street, Sutton, Canada.

Cinnamon, Apple Cider and Cloves! Oh My!

Soup and Sandwich at King Arthur's Bakery

Soup and Sandwich at King Arthur’s Bakery

Bonjour!  I have returned from a wonderful vacation in Quebec Canada! It is always so beautiful there at this time of year and the Quebecois go all out to make sure everything is decked out for their Thanksgiving on the first Monday in October.  My first stop was Burlington, Vermont where I flew into on a bright sunny day and then drove on to White River Junction, where I stayed overnight so that I might visit King Arthur Flour Bakery, Store and Cafe in Norwich, Vermont, before heading into Canada. I am a big fan of King Arthur products and was not disappointed with their new facilities for a baking school, cafe and shopping.  King Arthur’s Bakery Cafe was packed on Sunday afternoon!

King Arthur Bakery Cafe

King Arthur Bakery Cafe

King Arthur Bakery Cafe

I wish my blog post could have one of those scratch and smell labels on it! Can you smell the pumpkin spice scones, cheddar and herb biscuits, and caramel apple cinnamon buns?  I liked it when I received my receipt for my food and it showed all the ingredients of the sandwich and soup and who had made it.  We were seated in a large room where the guests could leisurely eat and relax, while some drank coffee and read the newspaper or worked at their computers. Next, I spent a long while looking over all the aisles of cooking goodies in the shopping area. I could spend hours, and usually do, in any kind of cookware or kitchen shop.

The Bakery Store

The Bakery Store

IMG_1224It was interesting to see the displays of the items I order online along with new items just released in time for the upcoming holidays. Heaven! A new product I had not seen before and proved to very popular at King Arthur’s and later in Sutton and Quebec Canada as well, were the Sunflower lids in the US and the Lily Pads in Canada.

The Sunflower Lid

The Sunflower Lid

The Lily Pad Lid

The Lily Pad Lid

They are silicone lids that seal tight on all smooth rims, stainless steel, glass, plastic and melamine.  They stay air tight to prevent spills in the refrigerator (no more looking for the right lid or stretching the plastic wrap) to preserve your food. Use in to the microwave (no paper towel to cover that food) and oven to seal for reheating or baking.  Saves on plastic wrap, can be reused forever and they come in all sizes! They are good up to 428 degrees, or -40 degrees, oven, microwave and dishwasher safe!  I bought two sunflowers at King Arthur, two different sizes of Lily Pads in my favorite shop in Sutton and three more in my favorite cooking shop in Quebec City. The Bakery and Store is located in a valley and as evening came upon us the clouds drifted down to create a Halloween atmosphere as we headed back to White River Junction for the evening.

Decked Out for Fall

Decked Out for Fall

King Arthur Bakery and Store

King Arthur Bakery and Store

EEK!

EEK!

On to Canada!

On to Canada!

Follow the road as we head into Canada!  The scenery is gorgeous!

For more information on the best baking products in the world see:

King Arthur Flour and the Bakers Catalog, or http://www.kingarthurflour.com for products, recipes, videos and more!

or visit their Baker’s Store at 135 Route 5, South Norwich, Vermont, 05055

Off to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley

Manoir Hovey

Manoir Hovey

Winding down the secluded entrance road surrounded by thirty-five acres of deep woods of pine and birch, we are headed to Manoir Hovey in North Hatley, Canada. It is a perfect cool crisp bright autumn day. The distinctive colored leaves gently float to the ground. Manoir Hovey, a five star inn was featured in the book Rule Against Murder, by Louise Penny and has become one of our favorite inns.

The Gardens at Manoir Hovey

The Gardens at Manoir Hovey

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Our Balcony at Manoir Hovey

Our Balcony at Manoir Hovey

The Flowers

The Flowers

The Manoir is secluded on Lake Massawippi and features a main lodge nestled in a beautiful garden setting and unique cabins suites along the water.   On our first trip we stayed in the lodge, in a beautiful corner room complete with a fireplace and overlooking the gardens, but on other trips we have stayed in the Le Cartier Cabin suite closest to the water.

The Fireplace in our Room

The Fireplace in our Room

Our Corner Room

Our Corner Room

Manoir Hovey Le Cartier Cottage

Manoir Hovey Le Cartier Cabin

Le Cartier Cabin

Le Cartier Cabin

Our Cabin at Manoir Hovey

Our Cabin at Manoir Hovey

Manor Hovey Cartier Cottage

The Fireplace in the Cabin Le Cartier

The Fireplace in the Cabin Le Cartier

Manor Hovey Cartier Cottage 16

The Road to the Cabins

The Road to the Cabins

It was beautiful to wake up to the sun shimmering on the water, the sound of geese flying overhead and the whir of outboard motors. We could sit on the dock and drink our morning coffee before walking up to the lodge for a brunch breakfast.

Lake at Manor Hovey

Our Dock

Our Dock

The restaurant, Le Hatley, is first class, serving excellent food, where you can choose the garden setting or a place by the huge fireplace crackling in the dining room. Afterwards, the library feels warm and inviting as you curl up to read the morning paper in front of the large stone fireplace. Downstairs is a bar and another fireplace setting where the guests can meet and mingle. It is so inviting in the evenings. The bar is like sitting in a cozy cabin in the woods.

The Pub at Manoir Hovey

The Pub at Manoir Hovey

This is the place for relaxation and complete indulgence at any time of year. Our favorite time is Fall.

To learn more about Manoir Hovey in North Hatley see: http://www.manoirhovey.com

On the Road to Quebec

The Countryside in Quebec Canada

The Countryside in Quebec Canada

Autumn is right around the corner.  That would be a long corner here in the South. Today it is 85 degrees outside. Eventually, the leaves on the trees  will turn to flaming red, brilliant orange and deep green. They will last for two or three days and then drop off. I am ready for autumn now. A long beautiful autumn with brilliant colored trees, cool crisp days and evenings by the fireplace with mugs of apple cider. My thoughts turn to Quebec.  Autumn comes early in this paradise of color.  Their Thanksgiving festivals are in early October.  Leave the holiday to the end of October and there is a good chance for snow on your pumpkin.

The Colors of Quebec

The Colors of Quebec

Sutton Canada Flower Art

We flew into Montreal the first time we went to Canada, but now we fly to Burlington, Vermont and rent a car in the States and drive into Canada. The roads in Canada are easy to navigate.  They are double lane with a median dividing them, small roads in the country with little to no traffic or gravel roads with a six foot drop on each side of it, an eye opener.  The stop signs and street signs are also several feet higher than in the States so they can still be seen when the snow piles up beneath them. There is abundant scenery. Let’s start in Montreal. We visited the Montreal Botanical Gardens and loved the Japanese Garden.

The Japanese Garden in the Montreal Botanical Gardens

The Japanese Garden in the Montreal Botanical Gardens

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308Canadians deck out the town for Fall and there are beautiful foliage arrangements and pumpkins everywhere.  If you look up ghostly exhibits await you.

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Fall Window Boxes, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Fall Window Boxes

Fall Window Boxes

Quebec City Canada Flower Display

Window Displays are Everywhere

Window Boxes

When I was looking over my pictures for Quebec it dawned on me that I first went to the region in 2008 to meet the author, Louise Penny, for a book review and signing. When I think about it many of my planned excursions have been based on what I have read about the area in a book.  I don’t know why I did not realize that before now.

Since that first meeting with Louise Penny, we have made several trips to Quebec, Canada, but always in the Fall. Louise Penny writes a mystery series about Chief Inspector Armand Gamache and a  fictitious tiny village in Quebec, Canada, Three Pines. Louise’s latest book, How the Light Gets In , is #1 in Mysteries on the New York Times Bestseller List.  I have read all her books (start at the beginning) but I did not want to put this book down.  This is her ninth book and they all have been a delight to read. You will fall in love with all the characters and follow them along, in their ups and downs, throughout the series. Here are some pictures from the first book review I attended meeting Louise Penny in Knowlton, Quebec, Canada at Lake Brome Books, a tiny cozy shop nestled in a cluster of wooden buildings along the waterfront. In the bookshop you will discover a walkway to a small bistro with the best pumpkin pie I have ever eaten!

Llake Brome Books

Lake Brome Books

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Louise Penny

Louise Penny

Knowlton, Quebec Canada

Knowlton, Quebec Canada

We visited the small village of Sutton, which is also a back drop for Three Pines village Louise writes into her mysteries.  On an early Sunday morning we were treated to fiddle playing and the singing of old Quebec tunes in a small bistro on Principale St while we munched on homemade delights. There is also a market that sells homemade breads, local meats, cheeses and  compotes that was busy serving up fresh turkeys and trimmings, and pies for the locals to take home and prepare for their Thanksgiving.  The entire village had a festive feeling!

Town Hall Sutton, Canada

Town Hall Sutton, Canada

The Sutton Shoppes

The Sutton Shoppes

Sutton Canada Flower Art 4Sutton Canada Flower Art 7

It is such a joy to explore these tiny hamlets in the Eastern Provence of Canada!

To learn more about Louise Penny visit http://www.louisepenny.com

Practice your French, we go next to North Hatley, Quebec Canada, a must do Fall pilgrimage!

Orvieto; Overground and Underground

Cinghiale (Wild Boar)

Cinghiale (Wild Boar)

SB is shaving in the bathroom. He hears footsteps behind the door. Someone is calling. The door to the bathroom flies open and a young woman is standing there in her bathrobe speaking “mile a minute Italian” and calling for me.  SB calls me too. I quickly jump into some clothes and go up the back stairway of the apartment to see what the commotion is all about.  It is Francesca.  She wants to greet me to Italy and her home. She is an animated woman with laughing eyes.  Suddenly she realizes we speak English so she speaks in English, but when she does not know a word in English she switches mid sentence to Italian, or just mixes the two together.  It could be a new language. It is one I understand. She is instantly likable and not concerned at all that she is in her bathrobe, uncombed snatches of hair going every which way, and SB is in his underwear with shaving cream on his face. She is so sorry she could not meet us yesterday, but hoped we saw the festival.  She asks us about our dinner plans for the day and what we would like to see. She wants to know if the apartment “is good.” She wants to know if we have enough to eat for breakfast.  She wants to know if she can get us anything.  Then she is off as quickly as she came. She is like a tornado.  She quickly comes and quickly goes. I look up after her as she retreats up a steep stairway that bridges the buildings together.  Between her building and our building is the wood-working workshop below. I realize the stairway is the indoor shortcut.  As we leave for the day, a truck has pulled up to the front of our building and the men are unloading wood planks. We peek in the expanded open doorway hearing the buzzing of saws and smelling the fragrance of newly cut wood.  It is a large work area filled with tables, hutches and sawdust. We are off to explore the ramparts of Orvieto. We walk along the inner edges of the massive wall and the narrow streets of new neighborhoods we have not explored yet.

The Walls of Orvieto

The Walls of Orvieto

DSCN1012

The Ring Around Road

The Ring Around Road

SB loves going below ground or climbing a bazillion stairs to view something. Our next stop is the Well of the Cave, an underground network of Etruscan era caves, wells and tunnels that were discovered in 1984 when a family was renovating their trattoria. We walk into a modern room roped off as if we are entering a movie theater.  An elderly man takes the money and points for SB to follow the roped edge along the wall of pictures of excavation into another room leading to the underground level.DSCN0951

Underground

Underground

Deep Underground

Deep Underground

As SB explores the caves I check out a small church across the way.  Our next stop leads us to the other side of Orvieto, through a small park where the town cats lazily lie in the sun and down a rough gravel path to meet up with a guide and other tourists to delve deeper underground into the caves of Orvieto.  I go inside the first cave, but decide I will go no further.  The cave path is very narrow and very dark and very down hill.

A Hard Place to Get To

A Hard Place to Get To

Deep and Dark

Deep and Dark

DSCN1031An Australian woman and I decide we would rather sit outside at a picnic table overlooking the Umbrian countryside while the others go on.  SB later tells me I made the right choice since in some spots of the cave the narrow openings were barely slits in the rock to squeeeeeeze through and the ground steep and tough going with boulder steps.  I had an enlightening chat about Australia with my new friend.

The Museum Palace

The Museum Palace

DSCN0933

The Ceiling

The Ceiling

Our last stop of the day was the Etruscan Museum, a former palace across the street from the Cathedral. The hand painted scenes on the walls and ceiling are breathtaking.  Crystal chandeliers shimmer glitters of light over the pale blue-sky color that dominates the rooms.  The ground level of the museum boasts fragments of Roman and Etruscan sculpture while Etruscan jewelry and Roman coins are featured on the first floor.

Pinocchio Again!

Pinocchio Again!

Trattoria Palomba

Trattoria Palomba

We finished up the day with a fine meal at Trattoria Palomba, a stone building, alley way eatery with a waiting line to get in every evening.  A family member seated us at a square table along the wall, covered with a red checkered cloth, and pointed to the daily special menu on the blackboard. It was just like in the movies!

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