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Going Green to Ireland

Thatched Roof Cottage Connemara, Ireland

Thatched Roof Cottage Connemara, Ireland

Cashel House Gardens

Cashel House Garden

Wild Rhubarb

Wild Rhubarb

March is all about green so we are off to Ireland! On this adventure we want to see the Ireland we have seen in the movies.

During this excursion we are renting a car to get around. I am driving……on the left side of the road…….. shifting gears with my left hand………the driving seat on the ride side of the car.  Hmmmmm……this will be interesting.  During car inspection in the Shannon Airport we notice the side-view mirror of the rental car is askew.  Not to worry, it just seems loose and the attendant is not concerned. The road out of Shannon is a divided two lane highway that soon narrows to a smaller road, which narrows to a smaller road, which narrows to a smaller road……  At the tight spots, we face cars head on and inch by each other, very slowly, since there are no places to pull over.

Traffic on west coast of Ireland

Traffic on west coast of Ireland

We are surrounded by trees or stone walls. Now I know why the side view mirrors are loose! They kiss as we pass each other! Before we know it we are on gravel roads surrounded by peat bogs or sheep grazing on the knolls. I have never seen a peat bog; a marsh without cattails, a wetland made up of dead and decaying vegetation.

Peat Bog in Connemara

Peat Bog in Connemara

Moss, mud and an earth mixture are dug up and made into little bricks. Peat bricks are piled high along the gravel road to dry out. I have to get out and look at the bog closely. Stepping on it is like stepping on a sponge. How to they get those peat bricks so uniform and perfect in size? It is getting dark with a drizzle of rain as we pull into our first stop, Cashel House in Connemara.

Bay from Cashel House

Bay from Cashel House

Cashel House overlooks the Cashel Bay on the west coast of Ireland. Designed by Geoffrey Emerson, the house was built in 1840 for Captain Thomas Hazell.  Geoffrey Emerson is the great, great grandfather of the present owner. The country home was converted to a family run four star hotel in 1968 by the McEvilly family. Situated in the heart of Connemara and nestled in 50 acres of gardens and woodland walks, it is perfect for artists or naturalists. Each of the 30 bedrooms and suites are decorated and furnished in antique furnishings presenting a charming chintzy country house style.  The turf fires give a relaxing homey atmosphere. Here are those peat bricks again! There is a sweet smoky smell wafting from the chimneys and fireplaces. I learn that a single brick-shaped piece of peat turf burns for 1 hour. Bogs are sometimes called fens, mires or quagmires.  Who knew?  There are hundreds of bog bricks placed next to the entry fireplace at Cashel House. The glass conservatory overlooking the gardens is now an elegant dining room. It is so romantic! Unfortunately, we only spend one night here and we are up and off early the next morning to a quick visit through Clifden, then on past the Kylemore Abbey and on into Cong, our next stop.

Clifden, Connemera

Clifden, Connemera

Kylemore Abbey, Connemera

Kylemore Abbey, Connemera

Kylemore Abbey and Castle, is home to a community of Benedictine nuns who came here in 1920 after the abby in Ypres, Belgium was destroyed in World War I.  (I have also been to the battlefields around Ypres, so will talk more about that in the Belgium post) At Kylemore the nuns opened a world renowned boarding school for girls and began restoring the Abbey, Gothic Church and Victorian Walled Garden. It was pouring today so we drove on to Cong.

The Irish in the Peat Bogs

My Peat Spade

My Peat  Spade

PS: A few years after the first trip to Ireland SB was in an antique shop in Northern England when he came across this item. A Peat Spade!!!!!  That’s how they get those bricks so perfect!  What a gift for me!

For more information on Cashel House and Gardens see: http://cashel-house-hotel.com/

For more information on the Kylemore Abbey, Castle and Gardens see: http://www.kylemoreabbeytourism.com

A Boat in Bellagio

Bellagio Water Front

Bellagio Water Front

Bellagio Ferry Dock

Bellagio Ferry Dock

Bellagio Waterfront

Bellagio Waterfront

Today we are off to Bellagio for a day of boating fun. Bellagio is by far the most touristy of the three villages we have spent time in. Walking to the right from the ferry, we find souvenir shops and tourist traps galore. These shops are not so much my cup of tea so we walk on to the beautiful Villa Melzi Gardens, filled with exotic plants and flowers and Neoclassical sculpture right along the lake front. We walk the entire length of the garden, to the concrete pool that now sits empty. The walk along the white pebbled garden path is outstanding!

Villa Melzi Gardens

Villa Melzi Gardens

Villa Melzi Gardens

Villa Melzi Gardens

Villa Melzi Gardens

Villa Melzi Gardens

Our next stop is the Enotecha Cava Turacciolo, for a wine tasting. (to boost my nerve to get on the speed boat you see)

Enoteca Cava Turacciolo

Enoteca Cava Turacciolo

The Wine of Enoteca Cava Turacciolo

The Wine of Enoteca Cava Turacciolo

The Food at the Cave

The Food at the Cave

At the Piazza Mazzini dock, where the wooden boats of the Bellagio Water Taxi are docked, we check in with Jennine and Luca.

Luca's Boat

Luca’s Boat

Luca’s boat is immaculate and gorgeous. Take off those spiky-heeled shoes please, do not mar the brilliantly restored mahogany wood! We zoom to the villas along the lake; past Richard Branson’s villa, (Virgin Airlines owner) past a huge sign in front of a villa that reads “No George”, meaning this is not the villa of George Cluny, as some believe. Villa L’Oleandra, George’s villa is located in Laglio, Italy, on the western shore of Lake Como.

We depart our speed boat at Villa del Balbianello, for an English speaking tour of the villa and grounds.  Situated on a romantic promontory overlooking Lake Como, the villa, built for Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini, at the end of the 18th century, sits on the property of a former old Franciscan Church. Be sure to see the inconspicuous door inside the villa that leads to an underground tunnel, an escape route for the Cardinal, that ended up in the hills above the villa. After passing through the hands of many owners, who each placed their own personal touch to the villa and gardens, it was bought by Guido Monzino.  Today the villa consists of his vision, and art collection of landscapes painted on glass (utterly unbelievable) and his mementos of his expedition to the North Pole and Mount Everest. Monzino was the leader of the first Italian expedition to climb Mt Everest and has dedicated an entire floor of the villa to this collection. In 1988 he died, leaving the villa as it was when he owned it, to the Italian National Trust. I found especially interesting the lower floor apartment, designed for his mother, who lived with him, and the modern kitchen on the ground floor. Also, his gardeners were left stipends for the rest of their lives, with the directions to maintain the grounds as they were when he lived there. Note the tree that is so large, the gardeners must climb inside it to prune it and keep it in it’s lovely shape. The villa and grounds have also been the choice for movie directors. It was filmed for movie scenes for Casino Royale, a James Bond thriller, and Star Wars: Episode II. Truly, a must see at Lake Como!  Enjoy my video of the boat trip from Bellagio!

For Information about Villa del Balbianello and Enoteca Cava Turacciolo see:  TripAdvisor

For more info about the Water Taxi Tours see: http://www.bellagiowatertaxis.com

For more info about the Villa Melzi Gardens see: http://www.giardinidivillamelzi.it

 

Joan of Arc Park, Quebec City

One of the Displays in Joan of Arc Park

One of the Displays in Joan of Arc Park

Yesterday we took a carriage ride through Quebec City.  The guide was very attentive and we learned more about this fabulous city.  We eventually rounded the Joan of Arc Park and I knew I wanted to come back on my own time to take pictures of the wonderful decorations in this neighborhood park.  So early this morning we piled into a cab and asked to go to the Plains of Abraham, the large stretch of parkland and battleground where the Joan of Arc Park is located.  We roared up the hill and through the town and through the town and through the town. I was thinking I didn’t remember it being very far, but hey I had been enjoying the carriage ride so maybe it was.  We got out at a field track and the taxi driver pointed to a bend in the road so we were sure the Joan of Arc Park was right around the corner, even though we didn’t see it.  We walked around the corner and nothing, just another road going along the St Lawrence River, but it did look to be a park.

The Beautiful Gardens we Walked through to Get to the Park

The Beautiful Gardens we Walked through to Get to the Park

The Woods where the Kids were having the Best Time!

The Woods where the Kids were having the Best Time!

We walked back to the field track where several people were jogging or walking, enjoying the beautiful warm fall day. An elderly woman stopped to ask if we needed help. Ah! The babushka lady to the rescue again! See https://cadyluckleedy.com/2013/03/27/safetyand-the…ndparent-types  When she realized we spoke English and she spoke only French the pantomiming began. Basically we got the message to follow the river road.  So we started walking.  And Walking.  And walking.  There were woods between the river road and the river and in the woods we could hear the voices and laughter of children.  Lots of children.  They must have been on a field trip we decided.  Boy were they having fun whooping it up!  We walked on.  We had a map and finally came to a sign that was actually on our map.  We were outside the boundaries of our tourist’s map!  We kept walking.  We walked on the road then we walked on the path.  Then we walked on the road again.  I decided to walk up up up the hill in the grass to see if anything looked like what were looking for.  I could see another path up there but wasn’t sure I could reach it without going all the way along the bottom of the road until the two paths finally met up. How far would that be?  We walked some more, passing joggers, more joggers, and those show offs jogging pushing a baby carriage too. Finally another couple, that looked as pooped as we were, moved across a wide meadow and we decided we would follow suit. We FINALLY made our way up to the higher street where there was a bench to rest on, thank goodness! There were kids everywhere!  School outings!  One group of  nine and ten year olds were lined up on the grass: one group dressed as Indians the other group dressed as soldiers.  They were having such fun and so were we watching them!  We eventually made our way to the Joan of Arc Park where there were more students and teachers.  What a great way to teach history!  The displays were eye catching, entertaining and there were signs pointing out the historical meaning to each display.  I learned a lot!

The Joan of Arc park and Garden

The Joan of Arc Park and Garden

One of the displays in Joan of Arc Park

One of the displays in Joan of Arc Park

Flowers and Foilage

Flowers and Foliage

The Scarecrow in the Middle

The Scarecrow in the Middle

The Rock

The Rock

Purple Foliage

Purple Foliage with Red Berries

More Pumpkins

More Pumpkins

Still More Pumpkins

Still More Pumpkins

The Tunnel Pumpkins

The Tunnel Pumpkins

The Pirate Ship

The Pirate Ship

You Are a Monster If You Pick the Flowers!

You Are a Monster If You Pick the Flowers!

The Gaol

The Gaol

The Chain Gang Sign

The Chain Gang Sign

The Duelers

The Duelers

Grave Markers

Grave Markers

The Coffin

The Coffin

The Pumpkin Streetlight

The Pumpkin Street Light

Several times during our stay in Quebec City we ate at the Buffet de Antiquaire,  clustered in a row  of antique shops.  Every time we ventured by this restaurant it was packed!  One evening we decided that this had to be the place to try.  Walking up a few short steps into a cozy diner atmosphere we were greeted by a young waitress who promptly seated us.  There was a tiny main floor room and a room upstairs. The chalkboard revealed the “Specials of the day.” The food was generous in proportions, home made like grandma’s and the atmosphere welcoming! One of my best local finds!  Enjoy!

Buffet de Antiquaire

Buffet de Antiquaire

It’s October! City Hall Decorations in Quebec City, It Doesn’t Get Any Better Than This!

Today we are going to discover the fabulous decorations at City Hall and around Quebec City! I just love all the beautiful displays at this time of year!!  Enjoy! There was construction around and drilling going on, they are making an underground parking lot with a garden above.  Can’t wait to see that when it is finished!

Pumpkins for Everyone!

Pumpkins for Everyone!

The Bat Tree

The Bat Tree

The Bat Tree With Spooky Cats!

The Bat Tree With Spooky Cats!

The BiiiiiiiiG Witch!

The BiiiiiiiiG Witch!

The Witches Clothes Line

The Witches Clothes Line

The Street Lights are Even Decked Out!

The Street Lights are Even Decked Out!

The Pirate Ship

The Pirate Ship with Cargo of Purple and Orange Pumpkins!

The Mast

The Mast

The Fog Even Rolls in For Effect!

The Fog Rolls in For Effect!

Another Pirate Ship!

Another Pirate Ship!

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Another Witch

The Pirates have Arrived!

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I Love the Orange ans Red Grass!

I Love the Orange and Red Grass!

It must take them forever to work out the artwork, set up the displays and plant the planters!  Unbelievable and sooooooo enjoyable!

The Plant Scapes

The Plant Scapes

And here are a couple of shots of cool buildings in the area!

Serenity

Serenity

The Half Round Building

The Half Round Building

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I think they are putting in an ice rink!  Looking ahead to the Christmas Season!

The Coach Ride with The Dog

The Coach Ride with The Dog

Ok, we are heading out of the protective walls of Quebec City! Come back tomorrow to see what is in store for us on the other side!

Out We Go!

Out We Go!

Oh Canada!!

Folk Music

Street Folk Music

Basse-Ville

Basse-Ville

The Beauty in the Walls

The Beauty in the Walls

Today we are walking to Haute-Ville, the next layer of Quebec City.  We leche-vitrine (window shop) along the Petit-Champlain passing lovely art galleries and shops, when I am compelled to stop at Pot en Ciel, a delightfully and artistically decorated kitchen ware shop that always seems to have the latest in cuisine accessories, cooking and table ware.   Afterwards, mingling with the tourists from the cruise ships that dock and depart here, we take the funicular to the promenade walkway that is in the front of the famous and majestic Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, due in most part  because of how it dominates the skyline of Quebec City. Designed by American architect, Bruce Price, it was one of a series of “chateau” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway during the late 19th century.  The hotel was named for Louis de Baude, count of Frontenac, who was governor of the colony of New France from 1672 to 1698, with a few years off in the middle.  In 1944 the Chateau became the action center of Quebec Conferences of WWII.  A tour of the Chateau with costumed tour guides gives you a glimpse into the rooms of  “The Who’s Who of Who Has Slept Here” (my term, don’t ask for that as the tour!).

A View from the Funicular

A View from the Funicular

The Cruise Ships

The Cruise Ships

The Frontenac Hotel

The Frontenac Hotel

The Promemade

The Promenade

The View From the Promenade

The View of the Frontenac and the Promenade

The sight is breathtaking.  Here artists and musicians reveal their talents as we walk the promenade gazing down at the cruise ships in Vieux-Port and up, up, up at the Frontenec Hotel.  It looks like a castle, but has always been a grand scale hotel. I am sad to say many tourists go no farther than the promenade and surrounding shops and restaurants.  Meandering through the streets we find shops, cafes, restaurants  and charming fall displays.

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

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Quebec City Canada Cafe

Haute-Ville Streets

Haute-Ville Streets

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Quebec City Canada Sculpture

Some make it the tiny rue du Tresor, a small alleyway lined with working artists.  For those who trek on, meandering the winding streets of Haute-Ville there are the Christmas shops, boutiques, plant landscapes and the Morrin Center awaiting you.

Plant Displays!

Plant Displays!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

The Morrin Center is one of my favorite stops.  I can’t wait to show you this years decorations and pictures from past years!  We’ll start there tomorrow! As we finish up the day we return to Vieux Quebec and one of the best restaurants in the quarter, the Lapin Saute, the rabbit restaurant.  I love the food, ambiance and the outdoor decorations of this restaurant.  It is truly what you would imagine a French bistro to be!

Le Lupin Saute

Le Lapin Saute

Outdoor Seating at Le Lepin

Outdoor Seating at Le Lapin (Notice the Rabbit Tables)

Le Lapin at Night

Le Lapin at Night

Inside Le Lepin

Inside Le Lapin

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The Menu

The Menu

The French Onion Soup

The French Onion Soup

I began my meal with the french onion soup studded with a thick white Canadian cheese followed by the rabbit (french) cassoulet. Absolutely yummy! I was so digging into the cassoulet I forgot to take a  picture!!!!  I’m headed back to the Germain-Dominion Hotel and after a mocha night cap I’m off to bed!  See you tomorrow at the Morrin Center!

For more information about Pot en Ciel, 27 Petit Champlain, Quebec, Canada view http://www.quartierpetitchamplain.com for a street map of all the shops and restaurants located there.

For information on the Chateau  Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrieres, view TripAdvisor.

For information on Le Lapin Saute, 52 Rue Du Petit-Champlain see TripAdvisor.

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