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Traipsing Through Tuscany- The Piccolomini Pienza

On Our Way to Pienza

On Our Way to Pienza

From Monticchiello we are off to Pienza, a small town that we can see on the hill in the distance. Pienza, is on a hill, but after arriving in the town, walking here is on flat ground. Unlike Montepulciano,  which is all up hill, Pienza is flat. There is a parking lot outside of town, but since it is full, we drive closer to the school and find a spot there.  Walking to the Town Gate, Porta Prato, I stop and admire a beautiful lawn and garden.  Before I know it an older gentleman came from the porch of the house and down to his gate to talk to me. He speaks Italian and when he realizes I am an American, he thanks my husband and me for saving Italy in WWII!  Then he opens the garden gate and offers me a tour of his lovely flower garden.  It was beautiful and just one of the many flower gardens in this small village.  Directly in front of Porta Prato is a public garden and the fragrance here is unbelievable!  The lawn is surrounded in a small bush hedge covered in white blossoms that are so fragrant!  I tried asking everyone and no one knew what that bush was and even my elderly gentleman friend was gone when I went back by his house to ask him, as we made our way out of town.  Darn! That’s what I will always remember about Pienza, the flowers and the fragrances.

Enea Silvio Piccolomini (1405-1464) was born in Corsignano, the small town on a hill overlooking the Orcia and Asso Valley.  In 1458, Piccolomini became Pope Pius II and when he returned to his home town, he decided to transform the town with the first humanist concept of urban design, (Renaissance) with the aid of Bernardo di Matteo Gamberelli, known as Rossellino, ingenere di palazzo, of Pope Nicholas V in Rome. Rossellino was responsible for the overall layout of the town which consisted of a main street joining two town gates.  On this basic structure he planned the major buildings around a town square, which served as an outdoor room, called the Piazza Pio II. The Piazza is surrounded by the Duomo, the Piccolomini Family Palace, City Hall with the Bell Tower, and the Bishop’s Palace.  All were designed by Rossellino in five years time. In 1464 the work stopped because both Pope Pius II and Rossellino, the architect, were dead. What we see today was completed a century later.  The town was renamed, Pienza after the Pope.  What remains now is a mixture of old stone, potted plants, grand views and a fragrance not to be forgotten.

Traipsing Through Tuscany – Monticchiello

Monticchiello

Monticchiello

Under a Tuscan Sun Road

Under a Tuscan Sun Road

Monticchiello is a very small village on the way to Pienza. I love the zig-zag road with the tall skinny cypress trees, just like in the movie, Under a Tuscan Sun! Asking about these trees I found that the Cupressus Sempervirens are known in Italy as the Italian, Tuscan, or Graveyard Tree. The tree is known as a symbol for mourning and associated with death because it fails to regenerate when cut back too severely. It’s branches were also used to fumigate during cremation and were also suitable to making wreaths.  They are often planted around cemeteries because their roots go straight down rather than spreading out, so little damage is done to the graves sites. Arriving in the village I am surprised to find a new sub-division of homes being built on the outskirts of town. It looks out of place, but I can see why one would want to live here.  The beauty of the village is the landscape; soft, rolling hills, dotted with the cypress trees, under a bright lapis lazuli sky and the warmth of the sun.  It is exactly what you imagine an Italian landscape to be. You can relax and slow down. No one is in a hurry here.  The older village consists of pale ochre colored stone houses with pastel colored doors, surrounded by manicured gardens. The Church of Santi Leonardo and Chrisoforo dates back to the last half of the thirteenth century, with a structure of a single nave and three apses.  It has a Gothic facade adorned with an oval portal with a rosette. Going up the hill there is the ruins of the Cassero Tower, from days long past.  This is the place to be to get away from it all.

Romancing the Stone Part II, Menaggio

Menaggio

Menaggio

What a wonderful first night we had! Our apartemento, Le Eriche, is perfect.  With the bedroom shutters and the salon shutters open, a lovely perfumed breeze fills the air.  What a way to wake up to the beautiful sunshine! Today we are headed down to Menaggio, via the local bus. It will pick us up early right outside our retreat or if we want to go later in the day we will walk down the road to the big curve. See (La Bella Lingua post for more info on that) Menaggio is picturesque and quaint with buildings of soft colored patinas of ocher, watermelon, cantaloupe and sage that seem to float in the sunlight. Menaggio is also the place to stay to avoid the hot, hot, hot afternoon sun rays.  Of our three favorite villages, Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna, it is the only village draped in shade late in the afternoon. We enjoyed walking the promenade and eating at the outdoor restaurants along the beach. There is also a boat rental shop here, in case you want to rent your own boat to  motor to the other villages and sights, without taking the ferry. Here are some of my favorite pictures of Menaggio!

Menaggio

Menaggio

My Favorite!

My Favorite!

Heaven!

Heaven!

The Shore Square

The Shore Square

Shore Square

Shore Square

Fun Along the Shoreline

Fun Along the Shoreline

Fun for Everyone!

Fun for Everyone!

The Promenade

The Promenade

The Restaurant

The Restaurant

Here is what we came home to every night!  I can not say enough wonderful words to describe the stay we experienced at the Apartment Le Eriche ! Thank you Piero and Fiametta!

Il Salotto

Il Salotto

La Camera da Letto

La Camera da Letto

La Cucina

La Cucina

Il Bagno

Il Bagno

Apartment Le Eriche, Via Per Barna, Plesio, Italy or see TripAdvisor under their B&B of the same name.

Romancing the Water and Stone

The Angel in the Train Depot

The Angel in the Train Depot

For a Valentine’s posting I was thinking of the most romantic spot I have journeyed to.  For me it would be Lake Como, Italy. The romance begins on the journey to get there. This vacation offered everything I consider romantic, a lake and the mountains. The Zurich train depot set the tone for our vacation.  It was one of the most artistically pleasing train stations I have ever been in. The compact green Italian train departed from a lively open warehouse-looking building filled with shops and restaurants and a large flower stall.

Sunflowers

Sunflowers

The Shops in the Warehouse at Zurich Train Station

The Shops in the Warehouse at Zurich Train Station

The train ride through tiny mountain villages and lakes in the Alps from Zurich to Como went by very quickly because the scenery was breathtaking. We arrived in Como just in time for an afternoon glass of wine before embarking a Rapido-Hydrofoil to go from the bottom left leg of Lake Como up to the split in the lake, to one of the triangular points of the lake, Menaggio.

The Walk from Como Giovanni Train Station to the Dock in Como

The Walk from Como Giovanni Train Station to the Dock in Como

The Hydrofoil Dock in Como

The Hydrofoil Dock in Como

Como Lakeside

Como Lakeside

During our stay on Lake Como we would be exploring Bellagio and Varenna also. The hydrofoil stopped at several small villages along the lake and it was exciting to see what the other villages looked like from the waters edge.  Villas, surrounded with immaculate gardens and landscaping, were most impressive!  After each stop, to let passengers off, I would tick the villages off in my head. Well we didn’t pick that one. Next…..

When we got to the dock at Menaggio, I knew I had picked the right place. Near the shore and the landing area for the hydrofoil and the ferries, was a hip coffee/pizza/breakfast restaurant with outdoor seating.  This spot would be our favorite spot for morning cappuccino, espresso or latte while we waited for the ferry to take us on various excursions. We would just sit and watch the seagulls and the early strollers.  Nearby was a beautiful yellow villa, Hotel du Lac, and across from that the grocery store.  Perfect! (For more insight into grocery shopping in Menaggio see the post, Il Negozio di Alimentari)

Soon after arriving at the dock in Menaggio, about 4 hours behind schedule, but right on time following Italian time, we were met at the wharf by our host, Piero. Six months previous, I had asked to rent one of his rooms in his B&B, but it was full.  He had suggested an apartment, that he and his wife also rented out, since were staying over a week, and we agreed. We were not exactly sure what we would be getting. Piero had a tiny hatchback car, so we piled the luggage in as best as we could, but SB still had to scrunch up and fold himself over the luggage (and we travel light) that had to be squeezed in the back hatch seat. With Piero and I buckled in the front seats, we set off up the hill.  We went up and up, curve, up, up, curve, tight curve, back up and take a second go at the curve-turn combo. Up, Up, past San Marco, past Ligomena, another tight curve.  Stop. Here we are and the rest is history!

For a week we lived in an outstanding apartment on the mountainside of Menaggio with a heavenly pool and a dream view of Lake Como.  Our neighbors, who stayed in other apartments, came from all over the world.  We had the best time getting together in the evenings by the pool and trying to figure out what everybody was saying! It was fantastic! Enjoy the view!

PS. We traveled from Zurich, Switzerland to Como, Italy because after leaving Lake Como we would be spending a week in Interlaken, Switzerland.  You could fly into Milan and take a train from there to Como to get a hydrofoil to the other villages along Lake Como.

For information about the apartment see: Apartment le Eriche, Via per Barna, Plesio, Italy.

For the B&B see: B&B Eriche, Villa alla Grona, Menaggio, Italy or view on TripAdvisor

Paris for Christmas

In a few days we are headed off to the City of Lights for the Christmas holidays. At this time of year traveling can be a real headache.  Will the weather be frightful?  Will the lines be as long as waiting for Santa? It is getting harder to get from Point A to Point B without going to A1, A2, and A3 in between!  Ugh! Which airport do I have to take my shoes off at?  Which airport do I have to take my umbrella out of my carry-on? Which airport does not allow any lap top cords or electronics unless they are all bundled together in a plastic bag?  It’s enough to give you a gigantic headache!  But, I found one airline, WestJet, a Canadian airline, that treats it’s guests at least once a year to a great time!  Be sure to watch the video to put a smile on your face!

Joan of Arc Park, Quebec City

One of the Displays in Joan of Arc Park

One of the Displays in Joan of Arc Park

Yesterday we took a carriage ride through Quebec City.  The guide was very attentive and we learned more about this fabulous city.  We eventually rounded the Joan of Arc Park and I knew I wanted to come back on my own time to take pictures of the wonderful decorations in this neighborhood park.  So early this morning we piled into a cab and asked to go to the Plains of Abraham, the large stretch of parkland and battleground where the Joan of Arc Park is located.  We roared up the hill and through the town and through the town and through the town. I was thinking I didn’t remember it being very far, but hey I had been enjoying the carriage ride so maybe it was.  We got out at a field track and the taxi driver pointed to a bend in the road so we were sure the Joan of Arc Park was right around the corner, even though we didn’t see it.  We walked around the corner and nothing, just another road going along the St Lawrence River, but it did look to be a park.

The Beautiful Gardens we Walked through to Get to the Park

The Beautiful Gardens we Walked through to Get to the Park

The Woods where the Kids were having the Best Time!

The Woods where the Kids were having the Best Time!

We walked back to the field track where several people were jogging or walking, enjoying the beautiful warm fall day. An elderly woman stopped to ask if we needed help. Ah! The babushka lady to the rescue again! See https://cadyluckleedy.com/2013/03/27/safetyand-the…ndparent-types  When she realized we spoke English and she spoke only French the pantomiming began. Basically we got the message to follow the river road.  So we started walking.  And Walking.  And walking.  There were woods between the river road and the river and in the woods we could hear the voices and laughter of children.  Lots of children.  They must have been on a field trip we decided.  Boy were they having fun whooping it up!  We walked on.  We had a map and finally came to a sign that was actually on our map.  We were outside the boundaries of our tourist’s map!  We kept walking.  We walked on the road then we walked on the path.  Then we walked on the road again.  I decided to walk up up up the hill in the grass to see if anything looked like what were looking for.  I could see another path up there but wasn’t sure I could reach it without going all the way along the bottom of the road until the two paths finally met up. How far would that be?  We walked some more, passing joggers, more joggers, and those show offs jogging pushing a baby carriage too. Finally another couple, that looked as pooped as we were, moved across a wide meadow and we decided we would follow suit. We FINALLY made our way up to the higher street where there was a bench to rest on, thank goodness! There were kids everywhere!  School outings!  One group of  nine and ten year olds were lined up on the grass: one group dressed as Indians the other group dressed as soldiers.  They were having such fun and so were we watching them!  We eventually made our way to the Joan of Arc Park where there were more students and teachers.  What a great way to teach history!  The displays were eye catching, entertaining and there were signs pointing out the historical meaning to each display.  I learned a lot!

The Joan of Arc park and Garden

The Joan of Arc Park and Garden

One of the displays in Joan of Arc Park

One of the displays in Joan of Arc Park

Flowers and Foilage

Flowers and Foliage

The Scarecrow in the Middle

The Scarecrow in the Middle

The Rock

The Rock

Purple Foliage

Purple Foliage with Red Berries

More Pumpkins

More Pumpkins

Still More Pumpkins

Still More Pumpkins

The Tunnel Pumpkins

The Tunnel Pumpkins

The Pirate Ship

The Pirate Ship

You Are a Monster If You Pick the Flowers!

You Are a Monster If You Pick the Flowers!

The Gaol

The Gaol

The Chain Gang Sign

The Chain Gang Sign

The Duelers

The Duelers

Grave Markers

Grave Markers

The Coffin

The Coffin

The Pumpkin Streetlight

The Pumpkin Street Light

Several times during our stay in Quebec City we ate at the Buffet de Antiquaire,  clustered in a row  of antique shops.  Every time we ventured by this restaurant it was packed!  One evening we decided that this had to be the place to try.  Walking up a few short steps into a cozy diner atmosphere we were greeted by a young waitress who promptly seated us.  There was a tiny main floor room and a room upstairs. The chalkboard revealed the “Specials of the day.” The food was generous in proportions, home made like grandma’s and the atmosphere welcoming! One of my best local finds!  Enjoy!

Buffet de Antiquaire

Buffet de Antiquaire

It’s October! City Hall Decorations in Quebec City, It Doesn’t Get Any Better Than This!

Today we are going to discover the fabulous decorations at City Hall and around Quebec City! I just love all the beautiful displays at this time of year!!  Enjoy! There was construction around and drilling going on, they are making an underground parking lot with a garden above.  Can’t wait to see that when it is finished!

Pumpkins for Everyone!

Pumpkins for Everyone!

The Bat Tree

The Bat Tree

The Bat Tree With Spooky Cats!

The Bat Tree With Spooky Cats!

The BiiiiiiiiG Witch!

The BiiiiiiiiG Witch!

The Witches Clothes Line

The Witches Clothes Line

The Street Lights are Even Decked Out!

The Street Lights are Even Decked Out!

The Pirate Ship

The Pirate Ship with Cargo of Purple and Orange Pumpkins!

The Mast

The Mast

The Fog Even Rolls in For Effect!

The Fog Rolls in For Effect!

Another Pirate Ship!

Another Pirate Ship!

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Another Witch

The Pirates have Arrived!

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I Love the Orange ans Red Grass!

I Love the Orange and Red Grass!

It must take them forever to work out the artwork, set up the displays and plant the planters!  Unbelievable and sooooooo enjoyable!

The Plant Scapes

The Plant Scapes

And here are a couple of shots of cool buildings in the area!

Serenity

Serenity

The Half Round Building

The Half Round Building

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I think they are putting in an ice rink!  Looking ahead to the Christmas Season!

The Coach Ride with The Dog

The Coach Ride with The Dog

Ok, we are heading out of the protective walls of Quebec City! Come back tomorrow to see what is in store for us on the other side!

Out We Go!

Out We Go!

Oh Canada!!

Folk Music

Street Folk Music

Basse-Ville

Basse-Ville

The Beauty in the Walls

The Beauty in the Walls

Today we are walking to Haute-Ville, the next layer of Quebec City.  We leche-vitrine (window shop) along the Petit-Champlain passing lovely art galleries and shops, when I am compelled to stop at Pot en Ciel, a delightfully and artistically decorated kitchen ware shop that always seems to have the latest in cuisine accessories, cooking and table ware.   Afterwards, mingling with the tourists from the cruise ships that dock and depart here, we take the funicular to the promenade walkway that is in the front of the famous and majestic Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, due in most part  because of how it dominates the skyline of Quebec City. Designed by American architect, Bruce Price, it was one of a series of “chateau” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway during the late 19th century.  The hotel was named for Louis de Baude, count of Frontenac, who was governor of the colony of New France from 1672 to 1698, with a few years off in the middle.  In 1944 the Chateau became the action center of Quebec Conferences of WWII.  A tour of the Chateau with costumed tour guides gives you a glimpse into the rooms of  “The Who’s Who of Who Has Slept Here” (my term, don’t ask for that as the tour!).

A View from the Funicular

A View from the Funicular

The Cruise Ships

The Cruise Ships

The Frontenac Hotel

The Frontenac Hotel

The Promemade

The Promenade

The View From the Promenade

The View of the Frontenac and the Promenade

The sight is breathtaking.  Here artists and musicians reveal their talents as we walk the promenade gazing down at the cruise ships in Vieux-Port and up, up, up at the Frontenec Hotel.  It looks like a castle, but has always been a grand scale hotel. I am sad to say many tourists go no farther than the promenade and surrounding shops and restaurants.  Meandering through the streets we find shops, cafes, restaurants  and charming fall displays.

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

Aux Anciens Canadiens Restaurant

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Quebec City Canada Cafe

Haute-Ville Streets

Haute-Ville Streets

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Quebec City Canada Sculpture

Some make it the tiny rue du Tresor, a small alleyway lined with working artists.  For those who trek on, meandering the winding streets of Haute-Ville there are the Christmas shops, boutiques, plant landscapes and the Morrin Center awaiting you.

Plant Displays!

Plant Displays!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

What Great Pumpkins!!!

The Morrin Center is one of my favorite stops.  I can’t wait to show you this years decorations and pictures from past years!  We’ll start there tomorrow! As we finish up the day we return to Vieux Quebec and one of the best restaurants in the quarter, the Lapin Saute, the rabbit restaurant.  I love the food, ambiance and the outdoor decorations of this restaurant.  It is truly what you would imagine a French bistro to be!

Le Lupin Saute

Le Lapin Saute

Outdoor Seating at Le Lepin

Outdoor Seating at Le Lapin (Notice the Rabbit Tables)

Le Lapin at Night

Le Lapin at Night

Inside Le Lepin

Inside Le Lapin

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The Menu

The Menu

The French Onion Soup

The French Onion Soup

I began my meal with the french onion soup studded with a thick white Canadian cheese followed by the rabbit (french) cassoulet. Absolutely yummy! I was so digging into the cassoulet I forgot to take a  picture!!!!  I’m headed back to the Germain-Dominion Hotel and after a mocha night cap I’m off to bed!  See you tomorrow at the Morrin Center!

For more information about Pot en Ciel, 27 Petit Champlain, Quebec, Canada view http://www.quartierpetitchamplain.com for a street map of all the shops and restaurants located there.

For information on the Chateau  Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrieres, view TripAdvisor.

For information on Le Lapin Saute, 52 Rue Du Petit-Champlain see TripAdvisor.

The Most European City in North America!

Fountain in Vieux Quebec

Fountain in Vieux Quebec near Hotel Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

Driving the back roads to Quebec City, I am on the lookout for the signs warning of the snow mobile crossings. The paths zig-zag along the highway and at intervals swoop across the road.  I daydream about going to grandma’s for Thanksgiving in a snowmobile.  The trees would zip by, the air is filled with the scent of pine and wood smoke, and the wind puts roses on my cheeks! I’d get to grandma’s ready to sit by the fire with the aroma of the Thanksgiving meal surrounding me!   Heaven! I get that comfortable and at home feeling when I go to my favorite hotel in Quebec City, the Hotel Le Germain-Dominion in the old town of Quebec City. The hotel is easy to find, has an attendant parking lot that is located behind the hotel and is in a perfect location for exploring Quebec City. The hotel itself is in a section of bank buildings.  With the first bonjour you are in for a very special stay.

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

Le Hotel Germain-Dominion, Quebec City, Canada

I’m not talking Bank of America here, I mean when banks were banks with grand entry ways, fresco ceilings and huge draped crystal chandeliers. It looks more like a ballroom.  THAT bank is still here on the corner. Can you imagine? Just walking in you would hope for a line to wait in, so you could enjoy the surroundings!   It takes up the entire block and one section on the opposite end corner has been converted into Le Germain-Dominion Hotel.  When one walks into the lobby of the hotel, it is a small part of a larger room.

Inside the Lobby le Germaine-Dominion Hotel

Inside the Lobby Le Germain-Dominion Hotel

IMG_1546A room with a huge fireplace and comfy squashy sofas and chairs surrounding the fireplace.  In the center of the room is an extensive coffee station with a massive brewer to make cafes, au laits, mochas, and more, to serve in china cups and bowls.  You know already how I like the bowls (bols) of au lait!

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

Le Cafe Station at the Germain-Dominion Hotel

There are also large tables, I’m talking wide, wide, wide dining room size tables and chairs to sit and spread your favorite newspaper out before you as you eat a healthy delicious breakfast in the morning. Or you can just relax and have coffee, tea, wine or liqueur at any time of day. In the mornings I love to come down here and see everyone spread out at the tables.  Eating like this also makes it easy to join in conversation with other guests as we sit, eat and enjoy our spread out newspapers.  I love the Globe and Mail Newspaper!  The paper is thin, shiny and in color, with the best articles ever on what is happening in Quebec.  I can really enjoy the morning breakfasts.  No one seems rushed, although there is an additional section where the business men tend to gather for early or late meetings. In the evenings the guests linger by the fireplace drinking coffee or wine and discussing their day, politics, where they are from or where they are going.  Great conversations, and just as comfortable and hospitable as being at grandma’s for the holiday. Taking the elevator to the rooms,  stepping off the elevator you enter a bank vault door (an original) which tells you which section of the hotel you are in.

The room at Le Germain- Dominion Boutique Hotel

The Room at Le Germain-Dominion Boutique Hotel

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The rooms are very large, modern, boutique style with HUGE walk in, glassed, rain showers that offer every amenity possible.

The Glassed Rain Shower

The Glassed Rain Shower

Returning downstairs, after my bol de au lait, I am out the door to walk the 17th Century neighborhoods of Vieux Quebec /Old Town Quebec City.

The Restaurants on my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A Restaurant along my Walk in Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenec Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

A View of the Frontenac Hotel and the Funicular from Vieux Quebec

The Funiculer

The Funicular to Upper Quebec City

Shops in Vieux Quebec

Shops in Vieux Quebec

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Rue du Petit-Champlain

Rue du Petit-Champlain

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

A 360 Degree View of Vieux Quebec

Place Royale

Place Royale

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Place Royale Square

Place Royale Square

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Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica

Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica as Night Falls

As night begins to fall, our destination is the La Piazzetta, on the corner of rue Saint-Paul, right across from the hotel. The restaurant offers a tiny cozy atmosphere and friendly knowledgeable staff helping us with our french, and serving home made pizzas with farm fresh ingredients.  The pizzas are so large the pizza tin in perched on a side extension of the table, so it looks like it is floating in the air.  We started off with an appetizer of Canadian cheese and warm fruit and an assortment of bread and sticks. The cafe was a buzz of guests enjoying their meals.

La Piazzetta

La Piazzetta

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

The Fruit and Cheese Appetizer

IMG_1341Afterwards we return to the hotel for a good night’s rest and look forward for our day tomorrow in Basse-Ville, the lower town of Quebec City. See you there!

For more information about Le Hotel Germain-Dominion see: http://www.germaindominion.com, 126 rue Saint-Pierre, Quebec City, Canada

La Piazzetta is located at 63 rue Saint-Paul, Vieux-Port, Quebec Canada

Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica, 16 rue Buade, is free and open to the public.  There are also tours of the crypt available.  See: http://www.patrimoine-religieux.com

By the Sea, By the Sea, By the Beautiful Sea!

The Pirate Lookout and "Pillbox"

The Pirate Lookout and “Pillbox”

We are off today to the resort town of Monterosso al Mare, the only Cinque Terre town built on flat land, with two parts: The New Town (Fegina) to the left as you get off the train and the Old Town (Centro Storico) to the right.  A long pedestrian tunnel connects the old with the new.

The Promenade

The Promenade

We stroll the waterfront promenade and can see all five Cinque Terre towns along the coast. Looking up we see the sixteenth century pirate lookout tower and down below the Nazi “pill box”, a small low concrete bunker where gunners hid in World War II. Heading into the Old Town there are dozens of little shops, restaurants and skinny, winding streets to explore.

The Village Shops

The Village Shops

Outdoor Cafe in Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre, Italy

Outdoor Cafe in Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre, Italy

We come to a small jewelry store and a sign outside in the window attracts my attention. It shows a necklace created “step by step” while walking the Cinque Terre.

Step by Step Charms of Cinque Terre

Step by Step Charms of Cinque Terre

There is a shop in each Cinque Terre town offering a bronze or silver charm with the name of that village, to complete a necklace or bracelet. I go inside La Gazza Ladra and the kind woman explains the procedure to collect the charms to me. I purchase a charm that says Monterosso in this shop and receive the charm and a passport, so to speak, that shows where the charms are located in the other four Cinque Terre towns.

The Step by Step Passport

The Step by Step Passport

In every town I must go to that shop, purchase the bronze or silver charm, get the passport stamped and when I am down to the last town I pay one euro for the last charm.  You can “Step by Step” the towns in any order. The necklace is lovely when completed. The shop owner shows the intricate knotting she has done between the five charms and added a beautiful clasp.  I have a small problem though.  I have walked four villages already and leave Cinque Terre tomorrow.  Hmm….. What to do.  I do the only sensible thing really.  I look at SB, who shrugs and says why not? What a guy!!!  I buy the charm, my first charm in bronze, walk out with my charm passport and go have a coffee to determine how much time it will take us to go back to all four of the other Cinque Terre villages and find these shops. It will make a lovely momento of my time in Cinque Terre.

After our coffee we explore Monterosso. We walk to find the Church of St John the Baptist, called the black and white church, with white marble from Carrara ( the famous Leonardo Di Vinci Carrara marble) and dark green marble, which looks black, from Punte Mesco, above the village.  There is a lacy stone rose window above the entrance to the church. The church is beautiful inside and immaculate.

Saint John the Baptist Church

Saint John the Baptist Church

The Sanctuary of St John the Baptist

The Sanctuary of St John the Baptist

The Altar of St John the Baptist

The Altar of St John the Baptist

There is also another church right across the way from St John the Baptist, and it is the most outstanding and different church I have ever been in. It is called the Oratory of the Dead.

Outside the Oratory of the Dead

Outside the Oratory of the Dead

The Oratory of the Dead

The Oratory of the Dead

The Skeleton Motiff

The Skeleton Motif

Skull-and-Crossbones

Skull-and-Crossbones and Hourglass

The Black Jesus in the Oratory of the Dead

The Black Jesus in the Oratory of the Dead

During the Counter-Reformation, the Catholic Church created brotherhoods of good works, called confraternities, to compete with the rising influence of Martin Luther. This church building is the oratory of the black group, a group whose mission was to arrange funerals, and take care of widows and orphans of lost sailors. The confraternity dates from the 16th century and membership is passed from father to son.  It has a beautiful black and white haunted house decor with skeletons and crossbones, a black hand-carved paneled choir stall adorned in skeletons and skeletons among the cherub angels.

The Choir Stalls of the Black Oratory

The Choir Stalls of the Black Oratory

I have never seen anything like it. We explore another church up the hill which has ships hanging from the ceiling and a nautical themed sanctuary.   Enjoying the sunshine we walk back through the pedestrian tunnel to the promenade of the beach to New Town.

The Beach at Monterosso al Mare

The Beach at Monterosso al Mare

This beach front of the village is perfect. There are tiny outdoor cafes, a beach with sand and swimming framed with expensive looking neighborhood villas right up to the sandy shore line.

The Beach Neighborhood

The Beach Neighborhood

People are swimming in the sea, those brave souls, the rest of us are still donning our coats and scarves.  A new stone building reveals architectural additions that start on shore and flow to the sea.  At the end of the building is Il Gigante, a look alike rock formation actually made of reinforced concrete originally constructed to support a dance terrace.

Il Gigante

Il Gigante

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We walk back along the beach and eat at one of the outdoor cafes and finish up with gelato before we head back to the train station to make our stops at Vernazza and Corniglia for the charms. While in Corniglia I also decide to go back to Fanny’s Bazar and buy two fish dishes. I kept thinking I would like two small fish dishes and decided  I could stash them in my carry on so they wouldn’t get broken.

My Fish Dishes

My Fish Dishes

I buy the silver charm in Corniglia since it is my favorite Cinque Terre village. By late afternoon we are in Vernazza and I have gathered three of the needed charms. We see our Aussie friends at an outdoor cafe (A shout out to Fee, Wes and Kathy!) and enjoy their company over drinks before taking the train back to Manarola and our last evening in this magical beautiful town.

For more information about the Cinque Terre, Step-by-Step charms in Montorosso al Mare see: La Gazza Ladra di Alessandra Pampari, Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, Moneterosso al Mare, La Spezia, Italy        Phone:+39 0187 817068

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